“DOWNTON ABBEY IN A GLASS” 🥂
Tamlyn Currin speaks her mind about the 2006 Lark & Folly
@jancisrobinson
Lark & Folly 2006 East Sussex Sparkling Reichensteiner / Huxelrebe
Full bottle 1,630 g. Discovered by pet-nat king Tim Wildman in the cellars of a deceased estate, and disgorged on 25 September 2023, this English wine spent 17 years on lees.
After disgorging, the wine was given a dosage of 8 g/l and sealed with a crown cap. Only 360 of these bottles exist and I’m told they represent the only commercially available bottles from this vintage.
This really is quite extraordinary! Aromas of apple peels and windfall apples lying thick on orchard grass, and dandelion flowers, just opened, which is when they smell sweet not bitter.
It’s full of tang, there’s a tentative toastiness (cobnuts, left in the pan a couple of seconds too long), buttermilk leesiness, praline richness, salty pickled lemons.
The bubbles are tiny, tickling, only just there. The texture hints at cream and then turns cashmere. What a gorgeous heirloom wine!
Downton Abbey in a glass! Pair with quail? I think this might cope with anything cooked in a mustardy creamy sauce, or, even, perhaps Welsh rarebit! I might have to test that theory... (TC)
17/20
Tamlyn Currin on JancisRobinson.com
Lark & Folly 2010 Kent Sparkling Schönburger
Full bottle 1,600 g. Tim Wildman’s latest project is unearthing long-forgotten bottles of never-released English wines.
The story goes that this wine was discovered in the ballroom of a stately home Tim was visiting while searching for grapes for Lost in a Field.
The inhabitants just happened to be sitting on a whole hoard of English wine made over ten years ago.
It really does smell like old vintage champagne – leesy, toasty, warm almond meal, even a little old-Riesling-like with a trace of pickled lime twisting into TDN.
There is a sour-cream richness and a smidge of nuttiness all wrapped up in chiffon bubbles. So quirky! There’s really nothing like this. I think I’d pair it with cockles and capers! (TC)
16.5 / 20
Tamlyn Currin on JancisRobinson.com
@tamlyncurrin