Plain — a natural wine club

Thomas Patek worked as a development engineer before a burn out convinced him to change career path. Suffering from depression and looking for a purpose, he began to see the familiar vineyards surrounding his home in Würzburg with new eyes. Turning to winemaking, Thomas had to start from scratch, learning in Würzburg, Pfalz and Austria followed by an apprenticeship at Horst Sauer in Franconia. He made his first wines here, managing two Silvaner vineyards before moving to Ingelheim am Rhein to work with Simone Adams of AdamsWein. Thomas deepened his knowledge of Burgundian varieties and their vinification, a focus inspired by Simone’s love of Pinot, and continued making his own wine in parallel. In 2021, he returned to Franconia and began working at 2Naturkinder in Kitzingen the following year. Alongside, he now manages five small vineyards in Kitzingen and Sulzfeld am Main, slightly south along the Main river. Silvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Domina on limestone soils, the wines aged in amphora, barrel and a little stainless steel in the 2Naturkinder cellar. In the vineyard, Thomas soft prunes, prioritising sap flow and guiding the plants towards a sustainable fruit yield. The two Silvaner vineyards were planted in ’84 and ’89, and Thomas has been rebuilding them after previous poor pruning, carefully restoring their vitality and natural vigour with each season. It’s one of the aspects he finds most rewarding; the connection with nature and the resurgence of a perennial plant that develops with each year. Weiss 2022 is four parts Silvaner and one part Bacchus, the former giving structure and salinity, the latter bringing fruit to the fore. The grapes were pressed as whole clusters, the juice fermented in stainless steel, undergoing malolactic fermentation. After seven months on the lees, it was racked at the end of April and bottled with a small addition of sulfur, measuring 20mg/l. Lightly reductive on the nose, it is bright and aromatic with elderflower and hay, a touch of citrus, and long finish. Weiss 2022 Thomas Patek @thomas_patek Franconia, Germany

If you take the train along the Mosel valley, be sure to find a window seat. As the tracks follow the curve of the river, tracing it upstream from Koblenz towards Luxembourg, vineyards and forest stretch as far as the eye can see, with villages dotted at the water’s edge and hilltop castles stark against the sky. On a sweeping, 180° bend in the river sits Kröv, home to Staffelter Hof. The name dates back to 862 A.D. when the vineyards were part of an abbey, making this the oldest, still-operating winery in the world. After the French Revolution, with the territories on the left bank of the Rhine in French hands, Napoleon confiscated the land. Purchased in 1805 by Peter Schneider, the winery began its family journey and, seven generations later, is safe in the hands of Jan Klein. With wine studies and experience in France, Australia and New Zealand behind him, Jan steered the estate through organic conversion, with an ecological focus that led to the introduction of natural wines and the establishment of @weinwald862 , a vitiforestry project centred around healthy soils, resilient vines and a vibrant ecosystem. Four hectares of PIWI grape varieties, hardy hybrids that require fewer treatments and cope well with weather fluctuations, have been planted alongside hundreds of trees and shrubs, scattered with bird and bat boxes to encourage biodiversity. Along with his parents, viticulturist Kosie Van Der Merwe (who also makes wine as @nomad_wines ) and a dedicated team, Jan is continuing the story of a historic winery and planting a polyculture that will carry it into the future. Last summer saw the release of 'The Grape Resistance', a new line of single-variety PIWI wines from this project. Satin Noir 2024 is one of these, its deep red grapes giving Beaujolais vibes and blackberry notes. The grapes were picked in late September and de-stemmed before three weeks on the skins, the fruit submerged in its own juice with twice daily punch downs before eight months of aging in used barrels. Easygoing but with a satisfyingly rustic edge, it’s a great match for grilled game or sausages with hot sauce. Satin Noir 2024 Staffelter Hof @staffelterhof862 Mosel, Germany

Pineau d'Aunis from the Loire Valley, Silvaner from limestone vineyards in Franconia, and Proxy E, a sparkling, alcohol-free alternative from Berlin with fermented honeycomb, silverberry and sage. Featuring: Pd'A 2024 @pinardier Weiss 2022 @thomas_patek Proxy E @booouuuche Photo by @urtracht

This month sees the introduction of Thomas Patek to Plain, an engineer-turned-winemaker with disarming honesty and a small selection of wines from Franconia. Thomas farms five vineyards in Kitzingen and Sulzfeld am Main, and his Weiss 2022 translates the limestone soils of his Silvaner plots into structure and salinity, with a small amount of Bacchus bringing fruit to the fore. Proxy E is a white wine alternative, an expertly crafted, alcohol-free sparkling from the Bouche brewery in Berlin. Fermented honeycomb, silverberry and sage are layered on a kombucha base of Snow Bud white tea, giving all the taught acidity, fine tannins and complex flavour of a wine, without the alcohol. One to drink chilled with seafood, young goat’s cheese or grilled fennel. And Patrick and Justine of Domaine la Bohème are back with Pd’A 2024, a single variety wine made with Pineau d’Aunis, grown in its native setting of the Loire Valley. Rosehip aromatics, a soft and tender tannin structure and the variety’s characteristic kick of freshly cracked peppercorns. Illustration by @goodwinecrapdrawing Producers: @thomas_patek @booouuuche @pinardier #plainwineset

A week in Franconia last September gave us a fuller picture of the people and place behind Wein Goutte. Harvest was drawing to a close and the farm cats were probably the only members of the gang who'd had enough sleep, but Emily and Christoph offered a warm welcome and proceeded to cook up a storm each day, accompanied by wines that consistently hit the spot. Both chefs in their previous careers, @emycampo_ went on to work as a sommelier, wine director and writer, and Christoph studied oenology before their paths crossed by chance at @franz_weninger in Austria. They've now been making wine for five years on the edge of Hüttenheim, where the houses dwindle and vines populate the slopes below the Steiger forest.  The wines are sure-footed and serious, with names that give a glimpse of Emily and Christoph’s playful nature. The sleek branding by @simonroy , designer, longtime friend and regular harvest support, was inspired by fruit stickers; compact and contemporary interruptions on a plain-coloured background. Line several bottles up along a shelf, and they form a deeply satisfying palette.  Names are scribbled on a rolling list until their match emerges in the cellar, each capturing a moment, a line from a song, or a snapshot of a bigger story. Pasta Buzz, for the carb-fuelled high of an indulgent plate, Puffy Shirt, an ode to the shirts of pirates, Prince and Seinfeld, and What Time is Too Late to Go to Bed? ‘For farmers probably 9pm, but you can decide for yourselves’. Schlado is a contraction of ‘Scheiß langer Donnerstag’, coined by the German workforce in response to the introduction of Thursday late night shopping. A well-earned glass after a long day, or simply a joyful bottle for the dinner table – great with mushrooms, radicchio, sweetbreads or sausages. Made with 55% Regent, 25% Domina, 10% Pinot Meunier, 5% Pinot Gris, and 5% co-planted PIWI varieties, it was aged in stainless steel and barrel, with half a year in bottle before release. Schlado 2023 Wein Goutte @weingoutte Franconia, Germany Photo by @kathi_pflug Words by @lydia.knoop

Spotlight on Piwi grapes from Hüttenheim, Franconia, a vibrant expression of Riesling and Silvaner from the Roter Hang in Rheinhessen, and a lively red from the contrasting landscape of Bonastre, close to the Mediterranean shore in Catalonia. Featuring: Schlado 2023 @weingoutte Naturweiss 2024 @schaetzel3000 E.T. 2022 @emimutombo Photo by @schaetzel3000

In February we had the chance to attend @most_weinsalon , a small wine fair in Kitzingen that gathered producers from Franconia and beyond. The trip included a catch up with Emily and Christoph of Wein Goutte who are back with Schlado ’23, a soothing blend of red and white grapes from the lower slopes of the Steiger forest. From the contrasting landscape and hot sun of Catalonia, a lively ’22 red from Emilie Mutombo made with traditional varieties and whole bunch maceration. E.T. was the first wine Emilie ever made; a signature bottle that evolves with each vintage.  And we’re very happy to feature Schätzel for the first time, a 650 year old winery in Rheinhessen with plots at the Roter Hang, where Kai and Jule farm with a modern approach and a long-term vision. Naturweiss '24 is a vibrant expression of Riesling and Silvaner, matured in barrel under a veil of flor and brought into balance by time and nature.  Illustration by @goodwinecrapdrawing Winemakers @weingoutte @emimutombo @schaetzel3000 #plainwineset

Originally from California, Nick Pratt began working with wine in San Francisco, pouring big reds at restaurants throughout the city. Despite the Napa fruit bombs and classic Bordeaux, this was where Nick realised the scope of European wine, from the nuances of Northern Rhône to the diversity of German regions. In 2014 he moved to Berlin and quickly became part of its thriving hospitality scene, building wine lists as a sommelier and DJing at the city’s renowned clubs. When the pandemic struck, venues and restaurants closed overnight, and Nick was one of many to reassess his career. Driven by his passion for wine and craving a more sustainable lifestyle, Nick turned to winemaking; a year with @weingut_odinstal in Pfalz, immersed in biodynamic preparations and canopy management, followed by a role with @weingut.beurer in Württemberg where he focussed on the cellar, tasting, testing and barreling down the wines. In parallel, Nick began tending his own vines, made possible by @rainerderschnaitmann and in ’23 produced his first vintage as ‘Wengerter Und’, a négoce label recognising the numerous influences behind wines that rely on nature, terroir, varietal, grower and maker. As of 2025, Nick farms just over 2ha in Schnait, with parcels dotted across the Rems valley and different varieties growing in small quantities. For the whites, Silvaner, Riesling, Helios, Chardonnay and Kerner. For the reds, Pinot Meunier, Lemberger, Trollinger, Zweigelt, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. In the future his production will focus on these vines, rooted in the mineral-rich, sandstone and marl soils of Remstal. Cuvée Lynn is a homage to Nick’s mother, who passed nearly two decades ago and always helped him navigate life’s questions. 66% Helios was direct pressed and aged in steel, with 20% whole bunches added from fermentation for six months. The rest is Silvaner, with 24 hour maceration and aged in an old 400 litre barrel. Blended in July ’24, it  was bottled with 30mg/l SO2.A citrus start on the palate that shifts to just-ripe orchard fruit, flinty minerality throughout and a herbal finish. Cuvée Lynn 2023 Nick Pratt @nicholas.william.pratt Württemberg, Germany

An apéro favourite from Dão, whole bunch Macabeu from Roussillon, and Blaufränkisch from the cooler climes of Burgenland. Featuring: Rufia Orange 2024 @joaotavaresdepinawines Golem 2023 @la.recerca Blaufränkisch Kalkstein 2023 @c__laus Photo by @la.recerca

Snowfall marked the start of the new year, with winter pruning unfolding in the vineyards. The hot bustle of harvest feels like a distant memory, leaves are long fallen and the vines lie hushed and dormant. At Quinta da Boavista in Dão, south of the Douro valley, it’s been a year of recovery and rebuilding after wildfires swept the region during harvest ’24. The grapes for Rufia Orange were some of the last to be picked; a fresh, skin contact wine from six native varieties, that carries the optimism and commitment underlining the work of João and his daughter Inês. From Recerca in the Corbières Catalanes, southern France, Golem 2023 bypasses the typical aromatics of Macabeu, with whole bunch maceration delivering the structure and power of a wine fit for the dinner table. Jess and Laurent have been adapting to soaring temperatures, practicing green harvesting to support the vines through the hot, dry summers. Blaufränkisch Kalkstein 2023 comes from the cooler climate and limestone soils of Burgenland, an area renowned for Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. Fermented in stainless steel before aging in old oak barrels, this is another crowd-pleaser from Claus Preisinger, with sour cherry running throughout and a saline finish. Illustration by @goodwinecrapdrawing Winemakers: @joaotavaresdepinawines @la.recerca @c__laus #plainwineset

Alanna LaGamba seems to be constantly in motion. It’s no secret that many small-scale producers are not only farmers and winemakers, but frequently turn their hand to bookkeeping, website-building, PR, pallet-packing, and the flurry of wine fairs. It’s a skill in itself to reach simultaneously in so many directions, yet somehow Alanna finds the time for interviews, export logistics, and even marathons.  Alanna was on the road, homeward-bound from France, when she called Marto, her partner in life and wine. It was April and temperatures had dropped to a worrying extreme, bringing the threat of a late frost to the vineyards. By the following morning, the young shoots were silver in the cold. Come harvest, the small amount of fruit was carefully picked, giving just half the yield hoped for but opening the door to a brand new version of Frauenpower. Since creating the Frauenpower line in 2019, a German take on Lambrusco inspired by her Italian heritage and love of bubbles, Alanna has rolled out a series of sparkling wines, working with different grape varieties from the 10 hectares she and Marto farm in Rheinhessen and creating different blends as her style evolves. Frauenpower Fusion 2024 is made with Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, Müller Thurgau, and Riesling, picked, pressed and aged separately in an assortment of barrels before blending. A juicy, fruity, sparkling rosé with strawberry undertones, it's a great match for your next Sunday brunch. Frauenpower Fusion 2024 Alanna LaGamba @vindelagamba Rheinhessen, Germany 📸 @abnorm.space

New wines from the sweeping slopes of Remstal, the latest Null Ohm Weiss from Rheinhessen, and a rosé for all seasons that champions Lemberger. Featuring: Cuveé Lynn 2023 @nicholas.william.pratt Null Ohm Weiss 2024 @moritz_kissbaehr Rosafaden 2024 @weingut_roterfaden Photo by @champagnjamin