I recently spent a couple days with Carl Ekstrom at his home in San Diego. I wrote about my time with him and my experiences making surfboards for the latest issue of
@acidsurfing - Thank you to
@miloclaytonkim for the introduction.
Carl scrounged around a filing cabinet and pulled out an old picture of Woody on a stormy day with no one out - he looked like a caveman riding some fallen over tree, more like a plank than a board. Brawlic shoulders slumped down, big mitts, gliding - it made me think of the monkeys and the monolith from 2001 Space Odyssey - a herald of progress. Carl recounted Bob Simmons tragic death at Windansea - another friend threatening suicide and driving his car off the cliff and plunging it staight into the lineup. He talked about glassing boards for Pat Curren and getting ripped off by Hansen, talking to Andy Warhol about surfboards in the movies. Andy said the bigger they are the more they look like art. He told me these stories twice, once per trip, and I listened twice, with intention.