‘Megalomaniac’ V13 FA
This was just the project I was seeking this fall season. A difficult period with newfound stressors and feeling like a real honest-to-god adult, I’d aimed to find a purely enjoyable problem which I could try easily after work that would take me in the range of 3-5 sessions.
Megalomaniac begins low on an undercling and climbs 18 powerful moves. It begins with a learned 5 move V8ish section which leads to the crux sequence—3 hard moves back-to-back.
1) Pounce powerfully out right to a half pad underclinging edge in the roof.
2) Focus for a very tricky and core-intensive blind-heel foot walk which leads to a powerful compression smack up the arete to the most lovely pinch.
3) Toe into a very cool iron band, huck meat to a good hold in compression and hold the rip.
From there, you must compose yourself, fight the pump, and paw through another V8 section—beginning with a technical compression crux before the moves get progressively easier, eventually turning onto the head wall.
Session to session, the process was linear and made ever more enjoyable through the company of a handful of great new friends and climbing partners. Ultimately, it took me four days to complete—culminating in a last try of the day banshee scream pumped and numb all out effort. I even channeled my sport skills and shook out briefly before the final few moves.
This problem is really great in my opinion! :)
‘Forever Endeavor’ V14/15 FA
Teton bouldering temps are nearing, as is the one-year anniversary of my proudest achievement in climbing to-date. I’ve pieced together a (very long and poorly produced) YouTube video sharing my process and story with this problem. I hope that it can inspire someone on their very own Forever Endeavor (and entice a repeat ascent)!
Cheers!! :-)
📸 @gazleah@wellgoodmedia
#climbing #bouldering #firstascent #wyomingbouldering #boulderingvideo #boulderinglife #boulderer #boulderinglife #outdoorbouldering
‘The Multiverse’ V14/15
Check out the YouTube link in bio for full footage from the other angle and some QFTB commentary!
#climbing #bouldering #climb #boulder #boulderinglife #climbinglife #boulderingproblems #bouldering_videos_of_instagram #climbingrocks #rockclimbing #rockclimb #boulders #boulderer
‘An Uncertain Hue’ ~V11 FA
AKA Scotty Grayson Memorial Project
This legendary NRG project sits beside one of the regions best and least-climbed moderates, ‘A Certain Shade’ FA’d by @pegoodman
Pat shared that the name was originally ‘Certain Shades,’ named for the “wild swirling iron bands moving through that creamy little panel of sandstone,” as well as for the headspace needed—“pulling on with a kind of quiet certainty.”
The name was altered slightly when it made it into the 2015 bouldering guide by Stella and Micah and has since become beloved and solidified. The image of Pat taken by Jessa climbing it inspired me to no-end as a youth and stood out starkly as
perhaps the most beautiful wall I’ve ever seen.
No exaggeration.
Also listed in the guidebook was a project to its left, “stand start in a slot and dyno to a brick-like hold. Make another huge dyno to iron crimps.”
Last year, Scotty @scottygrayson was close on this project, but a mono at the start severed his flexor tendon entirely, and not one but two exploratory surgeries were needed to find and reattach the tendon. Fortunately, he has since made a nearly full recovery, but his experience shrouded this project in caution.
Last week we rallied a crew to finally climb A Certain Shade—it was as glorious as anticipated!!
Ethan @ethan_pringle and I shared some very fun attempts on the project, finding two very different methods through the crux.
The start hold of this problem is amongst my favorite ever—a somewhat menacing toothy spine-like rail, with a perfect sickle iron band crimp below it for your other hand. Placing my hands gingerly upon it before each go was extremely satisfying, while also being an intimidating pre-cursor to the intense and intimidating climbing to follow.
Thanks to Karen for these incredible commemorative photos, our squad for the support and fun working sesh, and Scotty for trying again with me on the send day. This thing is so so quality! I love the new.
Sometimes for Team KAYA “work” means sampling our guidebook authors’ king lines.
-
For staff member @eric.jerome , this morning’s grindstone involved a tense hour-long business meeting with colleague @andrew_leich and his Cooper’s Rock mega, Ocean’s Obey (V10).
-
He made the boss proud by walking away with a sealed deal and a nifty second ascent. Just another day in the office!
Resistor Low ~V11 FA Co-opting wonderful Karen photos of a sick rock climb to soapbox:
The barrage of attacks on our constitutional norms is designed to induce helplessness, and it has worked effectively on me.
Each day, a choice: ruin my day scrolling—or work, climb, don’t read the news, and feel culpable?
I’m declaring here, on my modest platform, to break my hypnosis through action.
In 2020/21, I found purpose alongside communities engaged in solidarity, protest, and mutual aid. The work done here to support disenfranchised slices of our community was undeniably meaningful. However, the prevailing perspective in these circles was that participation in our electoral system was futile.
Despite our corrupt system, voter abstinence feels violent. It’s a duty to participate for those who cannot.
In those years, I briefly phone-banked for several politicians. Nothing heroic, but to this day, I am proud of the effort.
While I’m pessimistic the midterms will be free and fair, it may be our last shot at democracy for a very long time... As their crimes grow brazen, maintaining power has become a matter of life and limb—they will do everything in their power to hold it.
I am finished allowing this administration to numb me into complicity. Here are the simple items I’ve committed to:
— I have been more regularly attending my local town hall and county commission meetings (even though they’re boring and the LEDs induce migraine). I recently began pasting the transcript into GPT for quick summaries, which I’d recommend.
— I’ve volunteered as an election official, something our county was lacking.
— THAT’S IT (for now).
I like that these are bipartisan ways to help maintain democratic norms.
We’re all busy. While I have greater ambitions for my impact, I aim to start small to ensure I can be consistent before over-committing.
I encourage you to use these small action items for yourself, or to find an outlet for activism that is meaningful and actionable to you.
Will you dedicate an hour a week to making a difference in this fight?
Pirates Cove Plunder delivered. Nearly 170 climbers showed up, the community rallied, and a bunch of money was raised for NRAC. Huge thanks to Eric Jerome for organizing it all, Kaya for running the format, Black Diamond and OCÚN for supporting the event, and Aaron for the endless hours developing Pirate’s Cove. Really cool seeing everyone come together and watching the new school NRAC crew put on a proper banger.
#rockclimbing #newrivergorge #organicclimbing #bouldering #nrac
First time doing this move on rock! ‘The Beckoning Silence’ V10+ in Poudre Canyon, Colorado is one of the most unique and beautiful problems in recent memory! Sticking the dyno feels magical and the tall top section is easy enough to not feel majorly stressed but hard and exposed enough to require presence and engagement throughout the experience.
This climb and its mysticism have changed a bit over time, as originally it was established in 2008 by Cam Cross as a double clutch to the arete, and the landing was far worse and protected using net technology. More recently, deadfall from a fire was used by Kai Webler to improve the landing and this comp-style foot stamp beta was found.
Often times, changes like this will decrease the aura of a problem, but in this case, the more accessible landing and more on-of-a-kind crux feel additive, in my opinion.
Unfortunately, the fire did negatively impact the quality of the rock, making the outer crust brittle in some sections. I do believe it will clean up.
It was really awesome to share this session with @dynobryno and watch him slowly learn the coordo and pull out an unexpected last-try-best-try send.
Best questin’ video on YouTube showing the holds and setting in more detail, if you’re curious!
‘Golden Arrow’ V11 and ‘Poon Lagoon’ V8
-
Chatt always delivers the quality! Escaped down south a few weekends ago and yielded these amazing river polished boulders from Jimmy and Rami, respectively. Made a lil QFTB video. This one is hq for sure, though could start in a variety of places, exit left into poon, and the landing is a little hazardous with a foot high drop off on either side. The project to the left however… 👌
‘Relic Rapture Wrath’ V12 Flash
The first time I saw a truly capable climber was 2012, when across the busy gym I glimpsed a ripple-y shirtless dude crushing through an impossible looking boulder problem in the exclusive “project cave” of Earth Treks Timonium. Later I inspected the problem up close and was gobsmacked to find it graded V12. The grade and the ease with which this local crusher climbed it was unfathomable. I soon learned this was prolific Mid-Atlantic hardman, Tim Rose 🌹
In 2013, Tim dropped his “New River Sampler” edit, which included the FA of Relic. It was not made explicit, but this was the first V12 in the New River Gorge. I rewatched that vid a lot, amazed that he held the rip on the final “jug” in open-3.
As I’ve been recovering from this finger injury, I eyed this as a good confidence building goal. Last week, the NPS announced they’ll be closing the road for maintenance until March, which was the kick in the pants I needed to go give a rip.
Dazed from training and hosting friends late the night before, my confidence wavered. I did my best to fake it anyway which is sometimes all ya need!
The crux beta has evolved over the years, and I believe this heel method is likely easier than the more powerful approach used by Tim. Such has been the case for a number of his other testpieces, such as Nicodemus (which I believe has not been repeated with Tim’s beta) and Armistice (which I find absolutely nails). I don’t mention this as a slight, but rather in admiration of the level he displayed in that era!
Thanks to Tim for opening this line and to Josh and Charlie for the A+ support!
Gorgeous gorgeous stone in Moore’s Wall, NC.
Plodding along on the pulley recovery journey but coming back to life. Moore’s weather was perfect a couple weekends ago when it was 10 degrees and snowing at the New. This gave me a good opportunity to trial the area on some of the more finger-friendly classics. Looking forward to a return trip sometime. quick QFTB on the tube.
Orange Crush, flash of Bill Paxton, and the climb with the coolest start hold ever—Stigmata. @sundunny FA
‘Yoshimi’ V9+ FA
A long-standing project in Davis, WV, located right by the western-most tip of Maryland at the Camp 70 boulders. This beautiful and pure line came on my radar last March when Michael Brown posted videos of his attempts and shared the location online. The hue, angle, and stature is somewhat reminiscent of God Module. It’s more moves and taller—though the rock probably isn’t QUITE as bullet.
Finding myself 20 minutes south for a ski party, I chucked a couple pads in the car on the off-chance it was dry. That night I hiked up to it (roadside 🤗) and it was nearly ready to go. I noticed the crux hold was the thin right hand iron vein, and was uncertain if my recently injured pulley would support such a big move off such a small hold.
After staying up until the wee hours of the night, full of indecision if I should try it or meet friends back home for sloper slapping, I decided I’d have a go the following morning. Maybe I could grab it back 3?
I couldn’t, but was able to do the move open 4 after some cautious testing. More pads would have been reassuring, but when opportunity calls!!
Thanks to Ray Weber who first climbed at these boulders in the 90s, Douglas Downs who established the neighboring line and tried this problem in the early 2000’s, and Michael for sharing such a gem!
I’m uncertain of the grade. My initial guess was V9 but others who have tried have suggested 10 or 11.
