A mild winter has led to an early start to the Wolf Point season. I managed to take advantage and finish up Easy Prey this past weekend!
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After falling in the upper crux too many times to count, it felt amazing to finally execute and find myself resting having to keep my nerves in check for the easier exit climbing and final boulder. Luckily, it all felt solid - but hard enough to be full engaged - and I found myself clipping chains.
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At 8b, Easy Prey is far my hardest route on paper. At points during this process, I’d by lying if I said the lower grade and my inability to get it done didn’t bother me. Reflecting on it now, however, I couldn’t care less. This route is one of the best. Period. It’s also a style - purely resistant - that I find difficult and I know working through that has helped me become a better climber. On to the next!
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@frictionlabs@sendclimbing@montaneofficial@rhinoskinsolutions@gnarlynutrition@trainingbeta
Over ten years in to going to Hueco nearly every winter, the goal is always to try and work my way through the harder boulders and try to improve year after year.
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That said, there are too many unbelievable boulders across all the grades in Hueco to make that the only focus. Here are three slightly easier boulders I did this year that I enjoyed just as much, if not more:
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1: Taxing the Pipe V9
2. Funk’s Arete V8
3: Something Different V8
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With more classics like this to do, guess I’ll just have to go back next year!
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@frictionlabs@sendclimbing@montaneofficial@rhinoskinsolutions@gnarlynutrition@wagonwheelcoopt@trainingbeta
Had a gorgeous day out in the Wyoming high desert with an all time crew and managed to get on top of another quality one.
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Jump the Gun V11
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This @xxbigxcatxx block is the left hand start to Flight of the Antelope and deserves some more attention. It’s quite good and adds quite a bit in my opinion. Turns out the key was actually getting to the end without being numb. Who would have thought that would happen in February…
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@frictionlabs@sendclimbing@rhinoskinsolutions@montaneofficial@gnarlynutrition@trainingbeta
Back in Hueco and loving every minute of it!
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This boulder Young Blood V12 was the one that got away last year. I knew I could do it and felt I only needed another session or two. Turns out I was right! Executing this year felt great but there’s a small part of me that’s a little sad it’s done. The 3D roof, order of operations climbing is my favorite style in Hueco and this one is the best the park has to offer…
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🎥: @eliotstephens
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@sendclimbing@frictionlabs@montaneofficial@rhinoskinsolutions@gnarlynutrition@wagonwheelcoopt@trainingbeta
The fall temps are starting to arrive! That means it’s go time for me up here in Wyoming!
But first, here’s a look at exactly what my summer training looked like:
- 🎥 1: Outdoor climbing days on sub-maximal routes to stay comfortable on rock, maintain route fitness, and get some easier wins. This video is the crux section from my send of Valkyrie 8a.
- 🎥 2: Board climbing to get my strength and power back up after a long spring route season. I did a mix of low gear wall crawling on my home wall (shown here) and limit sessions on both the Kilter Board and TB2.
- 🎥 3: Endurance Circuits on the Kilter Board at 45 degrees. This workout started out as the 24 move circuit into a V5 boulder shown here. I did it for six rounds with ten minutes rest between laps. Since this video was shot, I’ve progressed the session both by making the initial circuit longer and by replacing the V5 with a V6.
- Not pictured: Unlevel edge block lifts (working up to 3x5 @ RPE 8) as part of the warmup before all my board sessions.
This was my entire summer training program - simple, but filled with lots of opportunities for trying hard and making progress.
Let me know if you have any questions!
