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John Kessler

@jdkess

Chicago Magazine dining critic. "It's wafer thin."
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The food at @oxbarchicago is forthright and easy to love, writes dining critic @jdkess — though he warns you’ll need to be patient with the service staff, who are still learning to coalesce.⁠ ⁠ In his latest review, John sings the praises of chef John Asbaty's skillful seasoning, excellent veg dishes, and truly sharable portions.⁠ ⁠ “Order one fewer entrée than the number of people at the table and overdo the vegetables. ... Those rainbow carrots, roasted in a mixture of coffee grounds and salt, meet up with pickled cherries and spicy harissa on the plate.”⁠ ⁠ Link in bio for the full review.⁠ ⁠ 📸: @jeff_marini ⁠ ⁠ #chicago #dining
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4 days ago
Husband-and-wife owners Jenner Tomaska and Katrina Bravo, the team behind the Lincoln Park tasting menu restaurant Esmé, have thought through every detail at @petiteedith_chicago with extreme precision and intentionality.⁠ ⁠ “I mentally edit some dishes, revel in others, and can never wait to explore more.”⁠ ⁠ Read @jdkess 's full review at the link in bio.⁠ ⁠ 📸: @jeff_marini ⁠ ⁠ #chicago #dining
499 2
1 month ago
Happy spring, y’all. These 13 restaurants were my favorite new openings of the year. So many dialed-in Asian flavors, so many restaurants being their own freaky-deaky selves, so much heart and love in the cooking. Happy to answer any questions or make any recs in the comments or by DM. 1. Brie gougeres @creepieschicago 2. Chawanmushi @atsumerurestaurant 3. Dahi bhalla @restaurantnadu 4. Caramelized onion and miso labneh @cafeyaya_chi 5. Mussel brochette @petiteedith_chicago 6. Fatty bluefin @omakasebox.chicago 7. Rah-sta pasta @mahari_restaurant 8. Boat noodles @noodles.party.chicago 9. @cryingtigerchicago 10. Fried calamari @zarellachicago 11. @ninegardenchi 12. Sausage and giard @pizz.amici 13. Mari Katsumura @sho.chicago Huge thanks to @amycavanaugh , @sjsteimer , @jeff_marini and @evanpjenkins for the words, sounds and images.
105 14
2 months ago
This past summer I got an amazing opportunity to join Big Green Egg’s president Dan Gertsacov on a research trip to Japan to put together the story of the kamado. This ceramic grill and smoker, which has a remarkable ability to hold specific temperatures, obsesses backyard cooks everywhere. It is manufactured by various companies the world over, but none has the loyalty and fan base of Atlanta’s BGE. The story of how a rice cooker (yes, you read that right) became an icon of Southern barbecue culture is so up my alley, and while pieces of it have been told, I believe we were the first to really put together the full narrative. I am so, so grateful to SFA and Gravy editor Sara Camp Milam for the opportunity, to Bita Honarvar, Noriko Hayashi and Ben Gray for telling the visual story with such verve, and to my brother from another mother Jon Waterhouse for crucial reporting help. It’s a very long story, and if you can’t make it through, I give you permission to pretend you did when we next meet. Link in bio. @biggreenegg @southfoodways @roadto50cuisines
31 5
2 months ago
This is very good, and doesn't it look like gagh, my fellow Trekkies?
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3 months ago
When am I sanctioned to throw away this uneaten Yuletide food like substance? 2032?
14 2
3 months ago
I like to braise a pork shoulder with a can of Coke, soy sauce, onions and gobs of thinly sliced ginger and eat it with rice and way too much chili crisp. It makes me happy
30 2
3 months ago
Very cool photos by @jeff_marini to accompany my review of @classactdining
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4 months ago
This here's a big ol' foot. @petiteedith_chicago
29 0
4 months ago
When you stay with Cincinnati folk you learn there exist special koozies so you can eat AN ENTIRE PINT of @graeters without getting your hands cold.
26 4
4 months ago
@agoramarketchicago has far and away the best selection of Asian ingredients packaged for non-Asians.
31 4
4 months ago
Miss Alba paid us a visit this Christmas. Risotto, tagliolini and so many scrambled eggs washed down with Barolo.
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4 months ago