Howard

Buns stuffed with thin, lacey-edged patties have taken over the Harbour City. Local food writer and content creator @howac shares his favourites. Comment "burger" for the list straight to your DMs – or head to the link in bio. 📸 @oba.yusuke

I came across 149 Bistro (no socials) randomly perusing Google Maps and the decor strikes you as a place that you need to visit immediately. They specialise in Xinjiang cuisine, so not exclusively Uighur which is why you’ll see the ever popular Hui Chinese-Muslim “Dapangi” Big Plate Chicken dish. It’s one of the few places that make it in Sydney, and the more the merrier I say. The menu here is massive and requires multiple visits to work through, ideally with a group of people since portions are generous and made for sharing. We ordered: $9.90 - Ganar Handmade Naan $78.80 - Big Plate Chicken(with Belt Noodles) $32.80 - Double Cooked Beef with Lotus Wrap $32.80 - Turpan Cumin Lamb Ribs $21.80 - Chicken Fried Rice $5.80 - Traditional Yogurt The naan isn’t like Indian naan, it’s much more dense and chewier so don’t expect soft and pillowy, but it’s good for mopping up sauce. You can customise spice level for most the the dishes. We didn’t get it too spicy because my BIL is heat averse but next time I definitely would kick it up a notch. The big plate chicken is on the expensive side but can serve four, the belt noodles had good bounce too. I quite enjoyed the double cooked beef and you could turn it into a bao and customise spice level here too. The cumin lamb ribs were OK, I’ve had better ones elsewhere so I wouldn’t consider this a must order — plenty of other lamb dishes on their menu to try. The chicken fried rice was kind of a throwaway order but wow, I didn’t expect this to be one of the best fried rice dishes I’ve had in a while. Usually when you get chicken fried rice, the chicken is stringy and overcooked but the chicken here was plump and tender and the rice had plenty of wok hei. I’d order this again and keen to try their other rice dishes. The yogurt is sweet and tangy, kind of similar to Greek but with a runnier consistency. I didn’t catch a milk skin on top but they add nuts and sultanas to it for some more character. There are a ton of dishes I’m unfamiliar with so yes, I will definitely be back. If you pay cash it’s slightly cheaper too. 149 Bistro Tu-Su: 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm 📍5/445 Victoria Ave, Chatsw

You can find takeaway Cantonese BBQ shops in several suburbs throughout Sydney where everyone has a favourite. I didn’t think we’d ever get one outside of Chinatown in the CBD but BBQ Station is doing just that, opening up roughly a month ago in the food court at 259 George Street next to Famous Chef. Prices are pretty standard for a CBD shop, starting at $16 for protein and rice or $18 for duck — or $18 for two choices and $20 for three. If you want just meat it’s $30 for two choices. I didn’t ask about their background story but the lady at the register said I wouldn’t be disappointed and I admire her confidence because she was right, I wasn’t disappointed. Is it my fav? No, but is it a great casual option in this part of town where you don’t have to trek to Chinatown? Yes. It’s also nice because you don’t hear about many traditional shops like these opening these days. I don’t know their official hours but I imagine it’s lunch only, and they don’t have any online presence. BBQ Station M-F: 11am-3pm (just a guess!) 📍259 George Street, Sydney

I’m always on the lookout for things in Sydney that are out of the ordinary — or at the very least, a little harder to find than usual. Here’s a compilation of things I’ve had that are just a little unique in their own way. 1. @olympic.meats - $35 small OMSP, $75 for large made with chicken and pork 2. @saigonthingseatery - $26.80 Tomahawk broken rice for when you have an appetite 3. @naan_house2021 - $18.90, Amritsari Paneer Kulcha, I’ve enjoyed ones out west more but I think tbis is the only place near the CBD that makes it, happy for someone to correct me 4. @chacopandamascot - $10.80 fun modern take on fantuan, there are more locations now too 5. @grumpydadsplace - $24 Big chivito sandwich, filling but would have liked more seasoning on the beef 6. @a.p.breadandwine - $25 found all over diners in the US but only see it once in a while here 7. @appizza.syd - $9.99 fav slice at the moment 8. @mapo - $12 this has been going around socials 9. @leyrd.banhminphin - $9 you don’t see many places doing bo la lot banh mi 10. Cheng’s - $14.80 dumplings, $18.80 noodles both very delicious

I’ve walked by @meryenda_sydney several times the past few months and finally decided to drop in. They’re doing Filipino classics with their own little twists with breads and pastries made by @iamsuperlavz and longanisa sausage made in-house. The shop is a little dated but they told me they’re doing a reno in the future. I’ve visited two times now and tried: $16.50 - Longanisa roll - Longanisa, fried egg, cheese, hashbrown $16.50 - Sisig roll - Crispy pork belly, fried egg, cheese $5 - Ube pandesal $5 - Spanish bread/senorita bread $4 - Madeleine Of the two rolls, the longanisa is the winner for me. The sausage is on the sweeter side but it works with the egg and hash brown, and quite filling if you order with chips. That’s not to say the sisig is bad by any means! Their ube pandesal is grandmothers recipe and it’s light, balanced and bouncy — but the Spanish bread/senorita bread. WOW, one of my favourite baked goods I’ve had recently. It’s laminated brioche and super light, supremely butter and with a nice crisp outer edge that pairs so well with the ube jam. It’s a cross between a croissant and salt bread, it’s a must order. They gave me the ube jam by the way, I don’t know how much it costs but it’s made with Ube from the Philippines and mixed with milk, coconut cream and coconut milk. Earthy with just enough sweetness. The madeleine is lemony without being overpowering and nice and airy. Seriously get the senorita bread! Meryenda M-Su: 7:30am-4pm 📍5/18-32 Oxford St, Darlinghurst

I think we need another steakhouse

@onyusyd soft opened last week in Wolli Creek, taking over the old Mom’s Chicken location. I caught wind from @yumehanacrystals who told me to check it out — and I tried to go but they’ve been selling out nearly every day, in particular with what was recommended, the $32 pork belly and radish dish. They’re still sold out of perilla noodles by the way. Not a review since they’re still in soft open stage but service is warm, portions are generous and it’s the kind of place you’d expect to have to go to Lidcombe for, but much more accessible here closer to the city. Lunch sets are around $28 and get you one of the noodle or rice/soup dishes plus your choice of potato pancake, dumplings or boneless fried chicken. Will definitely be back to suss the rest of the menu, great addition to the area. Onyu Th-Tu: 11:30am-3pm, 5pm-9:30pm 📍ShopC/6 Mount Olympus Blvd, Wolli Creek

When I lived in Washington DC, there were two constants in my life every fortnight — Hearing gunshots and a meal at La Granja de Oro, where I’d eat Peruvian charcoal chicken as a treat. You’d get a whole bird with chips and salad for a reasonable price with two sauces — aji verde (spicy green herb sauce) and aji Amarillo (yellowish milder sauce.) Both were mayo based and complement the chicken so well, so when @redheadgrill popped up on my feed I had to make an order to relive something I haven’t had in years. It’s so hard to find this dish in Sydney, the only place I’ve seen it is up in Avalon and on special once in a blue moon. The chicken is crazy juicy and smoky, and liberally spiced. You can only buy a whole chicken, chips and salad for around $35 but it’s totally worth it. The owner told me they can’t get all the spices for aji verde here and people have their own versions everywhere in Peru anyway so this was their take on it. It’s thick and has a medium kick plus it’s creamy and smoky, very addictive. The other sauce was a bit less viscous and runnier, not bad but not my first choice. Preorders for the weekend only, so shoot them a message if you’re keen. Redhead Grill

I don’t make the rules

I noticed @tajla.au a little over a month ago and the concept intrigued me but I had my reservations too. It’s pushing fusion in so many ways that also sum up this melting pot of a city. Tandoori marinated BBQ chicken gets flame grilled to finish and comes with toum and pickles, leaning into Sydney’s love of BBQ chickens. Burritos and bowls are available too with proteins and fillings like butter chicken, fried halloumi, beef brisket, falafel, fried chicken and chicken tikka paired with chutneys and tamarind drizzles for some Bangladeshi flair. It’s flavoursome and familiar for anyone who’s spent time eating all the food we have on offer in Sydney. On my visit I was the only person in the shop minus the owner and one of his employees. He confidently said I’d really enjoy it when I asked him about the menu and if he had any hospo background. I mean, what else was he going to say? But man, he was right. I also found it surprising how empty it was. I ordered: $14.50 - Captains Tikka BB - Chicken Tikka, Aioli, Onion Vaji, Cucumbe Lettuce, Fresh Tomatoes, Red Onions, Pickles, Tamarind Drizzle, Tomato Chutney, Masala Chips $7.50 - 1/4 Tandoori Marinated Chicken - with pickles and garlic sauce I was afraid the tandoori marinated chicken was going to be dry but it’s basted well on the grill and I didn’t get an overcooked leg — the garlic isn’t the strongest and neither are the pickles but they work very well together with the chicken. The burrito is hefty but the textures and flavours complement, I like the added sweetness with the chutney and tamarind, and it’s good enough I wanted to try another burrito straight away. The butter chicken burrito sounds good but the mustard mash potatoes in it make me apprehensive — but I felt that way about this place in general so it’s probably unfounded. Definitely coming back sooner than later. Tajla Tu-Th: 11:30am-10pm F-Sa: 11:30am-11:30pm Su: 11:30am-10pm 📍165 Enmore Rd, Enmore

I’m not a big soup person, I’d rather eat my calories but when you see people putting in work making their food, you have to respect it. @sumseodang is doing just that, with from what I gather, nearly everything made on site. They’ve also had specials like Pyongyang naengmyeon and the now permanent menu item raw soy marinated crab. I visited with my family and we ordered: $19 - Chive and squid pancake $23 - Perilla seed kalguksu $26 - Cod soup, cod milt and radish with rice $29 - Spicy pork rib stew gukbap The pancake was very crispy and chive lovers would enjoy this. The cod soup is clean and broth is balanced, though the milt is very noticeable for those with sensitive palates. The perilla noodles are very earthy and robust, not as delicate as the ones at Yeodongsik if you’re wondering. My favourite was the spicy pork — because who doesn’t like Korean spicy pork, especially in gukbap form? But really, it’s not overpowering in any way and damn tasty. I’d come back just to order this. Sum Seo Dang M-Su: 11am-9pm 📍Shop B2/1 Ave of Europe, Newington

The first time I had French tacos was at this place in Newtown called French Tacos Factory. When they closed during Covid they said they were relocating but then disappeared forever. Thankfully @frenchsttacoscrepes has popped up in Kogarah (a suburb going through crazy gentrification right now when it comes to food IMO) The owner mentioned he’s from Marseille so it’s proper. As the story goes, in Lyon in the early 2000s, North African immigrants were working late serving kebabs and sandwiches and one day put it all into a wrap, folded and pressed, and the idea spread. You get meat, fries, a cheesy “Algerian” sauce and other items of your choosing. It’s like a cross between a burrito, panini and quesadilla — don’t get caught up about the tacos in the name like I did when I first came across them, they’ve evolved into their own thing like tacos arabes in Mexico. I ordered: $20 - Street Duo - Algerian sauce, Chicken Tenders, Mince beef, French fries, homemade cheesy sauce, $20 -Cheese Lava - Algerian sauce, Chicken, French fries, homemade cheesy sauce, Mozzarella & Raclette grated on top It’s very tempting to order the cheese lava if you like cheese but flavour wise I much preferred the street duo, the seasoning in the beef gives it more complexity with the chicken tenders too. Great casual spot that’s filling and worth visiting to try something new too.