Declan H

Recent DRC dinner held in London, ahead of the annual new vintage in bottle tasting, and celebrating the reopening of @corneyandbarrow ’s beautiful offices in London. Theme was great winemaking in more difficult years. “Grapes of Wrath” phrase invoked to describe the vinification. Reception started with a beautiful, crisp, intense Salon 2013. Served from Magnum. Then downstairs to dinner and the start of a sublime set of wines - Montrachet 2003. Hot year. Gorgeously golden juice - fresh, lemon, hazelnut, vanilla, ever so light caramel. Beautiful and not at all dominated by ripeness. Followed by a duo from 1991 - RSV and Richebourg. 35 year olds with lovely evolving maturing Burgundy colour, Roses on the Richebourg nose whose dark red fruit palate was lovely. The RSV seduced from a more elegant red fruit start. The two wines danced and for me the Richebourg eventually was the more thrilling of the two. Hair splitting. Same counterpoint for the 2016s. A year where the GE and E have only recently been released in Mag format. So young and fresh. The Richebourg was vigourois with dark red fruit again, roses of course, brawny, spices. The RSV was beautiful. Raspberry and plum notes. Elegance on the surface but tons of layers to get through also. Lighter than its neighbour across the road. For me the more enjoyable of the two at this stage. Then a wine served blind from Magnum. The words complete and balanced uttered around the table should have been the giveaway as our generous hosts served what turned out to be Romanée-Conti 2003. Amazingly bright bright colour albeit with noticeable sediment. Complete red fruit that lingered on the tongue forever. Sweet and Asian spice at the same time. The fragrance in the glass went on an on. Not a showy, shouty wine. A beautiful, classy, wow wine. A Balance in the Force. #DRC

Cost Centre Number 2 practicing his decanting skills with a bottle of Clos des Papes 2005. Inspired by @tarquinkohlrabi , I tracked down this decanter from @igniteglass . The logistical stars aligned. Autumnal feel and last BBQ of the year taking advantage of a final burst of fine weather so went for Clos des Papes 2005. Complemented the meat perfectly with palate of dark fruit, pepper, game, mushroom, salt, tar, dried herbs. Super smooth. Full body. Lovely red fruit sweetness on the length as it rose through the octaves. #closdespapes #chateauneufdupape

Left bank right bank night. Mid 90s BDX. Youngsters just reaching the start of maturity. 1996 Latour on point yet again. Powerful body. Brooding dark ruby colour. Decanted with marginal gains. Dark red and black fruit, truffles, dried herbs, leather; pencil lead, earth. Immediately open and performing. 1995 Trotanoy. Tighter on the open. Decanted to big effect. Similar dark brooding colour. More cherry note on open and deepened as decanter kicked in. Dark fruit, truffle, tobacco, herb, chocolate, leather. My dining colleague said it was the first bottle that had opened up - previous bottles had remained closed. The food was superb as was the service. First visit to @gusto_dxb for me and I look forward to visiting again.

In the most recent edition of @decaslan and I look for new things to drink, we decided to open three bottles from producers who are at the forefront of the vigneron new wave - small production, subverting all the expectations of region, grape and terroir. Luckily, all three of these managed to deliver on the promise: 2019 Jules Brochet 'Éole' (794/859) - My general indifference to champagne hype is noted amongst my drinking buddies, but this is one of those bottles that was absolutely transformative. For sure, too young, but the nose of cultured yoghurt and sourdough manages to hide the purity of fruit hidden just beneath the surface. Incredible energy, and doesn't fall in the trap of many growers today with excessive oxidation. 2022 Gaspard Brochet 'Les Plantes' (301/570) - Of the three bottles, the one that was the least accessible. The reduction here is considerable, almost 'too much' for those who prefer a more fruit-driven expression of Chardonnay. In the decanter, this incredibly smoky aromatics emerges, and the palate develops this richness without ever fully shaking the shyness. An inspired wine built with cellaring in mind, but can already taste all the quality. 2022 Maison Glandien 'La Planéte' (155/252) - Like the Les Jardins Vivant Les Vaux previously opened in Ireland, this was mind-boggling. Upon opening, this had some of the most animalistic aromatics of any white I have drunk - bordering on the bretty. Reduction is less of a hallmark here, there is some gunflint but also some underripe mango. Acidity, my bugbear with Aligotes, was perfectly measured here. Could land a plane on the length of this finish. WOTN

2021 @domaineguilbertgillet Savigny-lès-Beaune. Spotted this beauty amongst the many gems in the wine list @chambers.nyc . Bright red translucent colour. Fresh strawberry and cherry nose, some spice and hint of oak also. Pure palate which mirrored the nose. Decent sweet aftertaste prompting the next halls to be poured. Elegant and lifted. Enjoyable from start to finish. Some evolution with air. This offered moreish drinking right from the start. Kept consistent notes throughout. Would love to try this again in a few years to see what extra layers unfold. Was just the ticket for an end of week early dinner. Super service and food. #fridaynightsinnycbelike

Enjoying the good steaks and enlightened corkage @hawksmoordublin . Brought Camille Thiriet Côtes de Nuits-Villages La Montagne 2023 acquired from @patrick_greenacres . The Somm mentioned he had tried Camille’s wines from the same source also. Punching well above the Villages moniker. Dark ruby colour. Raspberry, balsamic vinegar, smoke, cherry on the nose. Lovely crunch from the, I believe, 50% whole bunch this year. Beautiful, clean, ripe fruit and spice on the palate. Super fresh. Fine tannins. So good now and will also tuck a few bottles away for a few years to enjoy the evolution. Worth seeking out her wines in Dublin, Wexford and elsewhere. #camillethiriet

On Friday last, Cost Centre Number One received his Leaving Certificate results and did himself, and his mother and myself, proud. Last weekend kicked off with what therefore turned into a celebratory lunch and long overdue return visit to @rosa.madre_restaurant . We opened with a superb Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006. Caramel, brioche, toast notes in abundance over a super smooth, nicely beaded palate. À point. This was followed by the Leflaive Chevy M 2010. I posted previously on this bottle. Faith restored. Next up was Domain Guilbert Gillet Aloxe-Corton Les Crapousuets VV 2021. I had been keen to try this Domaine, founded in 2020, and was delighted to try this Cuvée. The name apparently comes from a composite of being near Les Cras and a dialect word for mud reflecting the relatively heavier soil. There is nothing heavy about this bright, fresh, crunchy wine. Beautiful translucent ruby colour, spicy red fruit nose. Palate of strawberries and cherries, spice, dried herbs, classy oak. Will definitely look for more of these wines @siyps @domaineguilbertgillet Then a trip to Luca’s Aladdin’s cave cellar to choose a Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2011. Bottle in great form. Burgundy to Piemonte. Nose and palate more on the cherry side of red and dark fruits, herbs, tar, smoke, roses. Drank really well despite an understandable concern it might need more time. This bottle was in great drinking form. A final glass of an electric Frederic Savart L’ouverture to perk up palates. #perfectfriday

Domaine Leflaive. Chevalier Montrachet 2010. Muted on open. Poured into the biggest glasses from the wide selection of glassware in @rosamadredublin and the wine responded beautifully. Lemon oil, lemon grass, caramel, butter, hazelnut. The intensity of the aromas grew and grew. Smooth as silk. Colour showed some age but the palate was still so fresh alongside the development. Super aftertaste.

Brisk bright August evening to celebrate Mrs H’s birthday. White Burgundy requested. Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2009 Magnum opened and it delivered. We’ve been lucky with this case of Mags. All singing so far. Beautiful developing golden colour. Nose of lemon, butter and roast hazelnuts. Palate of richer version of these flavours with some tropical fruit hints and salinity also. This wine was not heavy at all though despite the lush descriptors. Still so fresh. Drinking beautifully. #cortoncharlemagne

@domaineleflaive Bâtard- Montrachet 2005. Bottle in good form. Rich, apple, citrus and white flower nose and palate. Palate stronger than nose which started a bit muted. Balanced with good acidity for a very enjoyable intensity on pre storm evening. The length on this was amazing. Finished with a crescendo. #batardmontrachet

We finished the Gala Dinner @musiqueetvin_closvougeot with this super Chateau d’Yquem 2010. Pepped up tired palates after a long hot day with sweetness and acidity paired perfectly with dessert. Golden colour. Big pour. Satisfying long long aftertaste. Must drink more Sauternes. #yquem

Arnaud Ente Meursault 2016. Broke out some bottles for a visit from the Real Capital for Cork Dublin and a special 80th (ish) birthday. Nice nose of lit match and citrus. Lovely fresh medium body palate of yellow and white fruit. Perfect for a muggy evening. @arnaudente #meursault