A cool November monday in Iceland, close to Þorlákshöfn, you need someone from Australia to remind us that we live on an island, surrounded by this perfect magical ocean,
@pachalight invited me and my daughter
@elinandradottir and
@martinhalldorsson to go winter surfing, with the help of
@ellithor and
@arcticsurfers . Surfing is rather new in Iceland, one of the things we thought was to be done “elsewhere” most of us are raised with fear of the ocean, I was warned as a kid I would die within 10 minutes of falling in, (later to discovered that I am half seal and can easily spend and hour). Even sailing as a sport is rather limited in Iceland compared to Scandinavia, as the ocean can be very rough. The sea was for food, work, survival, nothing else, not for leisure, understandably, as we lost thousands at sea in the 20th century. Every family had lost a brother, father, grandfather. Our first year without a lost fisherman was just a few years ago. Surfing is a wonderful deep way (and cool!) to understand the forces of the sea, also an opportunity to reconnect to the infininate words we have in Iceland about waves, ocean and weather. “Glöggt er gests augað” is a saying in Icelandic, “the guest has a wise eye” and we are starting to understand that we have valuable and special places when it comes to surfing. Pacha Light has been inspiring girls around the world to hit the waves. Sadly, one of the best waves in Iceland and maybe Europe is threatened by the local municipality in Þorlákshöfn, currently planning a needless landfill, maybe for containers, maybe nothing, where there is plenty of space for both. I met a local mother, a surfer and mother of five boys, that will not be able to pass on her passion. The current authories do not seem to be able to imagine the value of such a sport or the wave for the future of Þorlákshöfn, the opportunity to connect the local kids to nature, the obvious fun and coolness, or the mental health of those that currently seek pure happiness in the wave. I hope they find wisdom to protect it and find a wave wave solution. These photos are from the amazing team from
@crosswave_north @berglindjohanns @whereswalle