Alex Fey

Electro Boogie 8A+ / V12 Magic Wood, Switzerland See highlight for important updates / thoughts projecting this! This one means a lot to me! I know it's not that 8B on paper that I've been striving for, but not being able to use the more traditional morpho beta using the better holds and hooks out left made this one a noticeable step up in difficulty from the 4 other 8A+ I have done. In the end it became an extremely physically and mentally challenging puzzle that pushed me to my limits and that's really all I can ask for 😁. Inspired by seeing this boulder topped by smaller climbers recently, (thanks again @michaelakiersch 👍) I began my journey last year. In just a few sesh then I figured out beta with @raulraulraulraulraulraul and could at least do the first 3 moves individually. Almost a year later, I had several more short sessions with @robinungerer and @therealpaukember resulting in more respectable links on the top. When I came back again a few weeks ago, I committed myself 100% to this line. Coming straight from a wedding in Portugal, slightly heavy and probably still hung over I managed to link the first 3 moves (crux) in sequence for the first time on my 2nd day. During a week+ span of rain and poor conditions, with the support/psyche from @mr__pagno , @tommy_top_out , and @theoclimbing I was able to at least work on small links and beta tweaks but my confidence became really low and I was truthfully ready to give up 😭. I decided to give it one last sesh going super early in the morning and finally using @tokyopowder_uk BOOST (@swizzybouldering 🙏) to give myself the best chances. Wow what a game changer! I found a new sequence gaining the crucial right hand crimp super statically AND skipping a tricky foot walk. Huge overlapping links followed and actually a near send after sticking the sloper pinch for the first time. It still proved to be a battle though as I proceeded to fall in this "easy section" at least 8 times over 2 sesh 🙈. The final piece was new beta for the end inspired by @peanut_butter_biceps bumping left instead of straight up from the intermediate. It was just enough to top it finally🎉. 8B next? Thanks @tmvalcheva ❤️

Captain Jack 8A+ / V12 - Magic Wood, Switzerland See my highlight for all the progress on this one up until the send! My 4th 8A+ 🥳 (3rd this year!) On one of my first sessions getting reacquainted with the moves for Octopussy 8A, someone in the group asked me if I knew anything about these lines going up this left arete (Jack Daniels and Captain Jack). I had never knew these existed, but was immediately intrigued when they showed me them in the book. After a very early morning send of Octopussy 8A, I had plenty of energy and psyche left so I curiously started playing around with the moves for these lines. I quickly realized that my somewhat unique beta on Octopussy having to go through that micro crimp actually set me up perfectly for going up this arete! I also already knew the top out, having sent Free For All 8A last trip. The rest of that session I was able to work out almost all the moves (including how to top out both left and around right). Already extremely happy with my progress, that night I searched online for more information about this line. Only 6 ascents were logged for Captain Jack 8A+ on 8a.nu with some pretty notable names making up most of the list (and 2 of them even suggesting 8B!). No videos, beta, or any other information could be found but I thought if anyone knows anything it would be @gianiclimbs (One of the legends of the forest). It turns out he was actually with @adam.ondra when Adam got the first ascent of this line! He also told me that Adam did it by topping out over right in Free For All so I knew this is the way I would do it 😁. After a successful session working out the move to the sidepull pinch and getting a really good link to the end from after the big move of Octopussy, I knew it was time to go for the send. Following exactly the same tactics I employed on sending Octopussy, I got up at 4:30 AM one morning after a rest day and sent it on the first go that I was able to stick the big move of Octopussy from the beginning! 🥳 Shortly after, I had a victory lap completing all the lines here with a send of Jack Daniels 7C+. Thanks @swizzybouldering for all the advice 👍 Thanks @jimpetersen 👍 @slaphappyclimbing

Never Ending Story Part 1 8A+ / V12 - Magic Wood, Switzerland My 3rd 8A+ and longest ever project has finally been put to rest 😁. I first touched this legendary line nearly 8 years ago on my first ever trips to Magic not imagining I would ever have the ability or strength to work on it, let alone send it. I know it's only just the first part of a much more impressive line, but finding a way to complete this part with my own unique beta for both the beginning and the end is very special for me. It gives me hope and even more motivation that in my old age (I'll be 40 years old next year!) i can still get better and stronger to achieve my ever increasing goals in climbing. I guess this means I need to actually work on sticking the first move of part 2 now 😂. More to say on this particular boulder when I get back from my trip! Way too many people to thank for all the encouragement and all the time spent with me on this over the years but just know that I really appreciate it! ❤️ Thanks @ayyhaych for the perfect vid! Thanks @aikrr_ For the psyche on the send! And special thanks @tmvalcheva for allowing me to spend so much time doing what I love 😘 Thanks @edelweiss_generoso_bodhicamp for the good times as always!

Red "V11" (V9?) @climbingdistrictlondon Another nice one from the new arch set. Getting the toe hook good enough to do the first few moves was tricky. Also I found it hard to keep the left foot on for the 2nd to last move. Pushing with my right foot on the volume helped a lot there. Nearly dropped the match too as I really struggled to reach that foot back down 😂. A cool one, but no way this is V11 though. I would say it felt about the same difficulty as the soft V10 Black next to it, so I guess more like hard V9 😁 Thanks for the vid 📹 @namktran

Black V10 @climbingdistrictlondon Really enjoyed working this pumpy one out with @namktran on our last session before heading out to Switzerland 🇨🇭. The only move that really gave me much trouble was the move coming out of the roof to that big right hand pinch. I tried to find an elegant static way but just going for the big throw and catch ended up working out the best there. The rest was more of a test of static tension endurance which suits me well. Grade wise, maybe V10, but if you told me you thought it was V9 I probably wouldn't argue 😁. Thanks for the vid 📹 @namktran 👍

Black V9 (V8) @climbingdistrictlondon set by @serenwyrd Checked out some of the new sets at London Fields yesterday...lots of nice V7-V9's there at the moment! I thought this black V9 was the most interesting one. @jonnotj0hn told me the start was set using a left toe hook to throw and catch a right hand first, but it felt impossible for me to generate out that way without losing the toe hook / left hand. Instead, I figured out this really cool steady beta securing a left heel, locking off and going static left hand up first. Then using a bicycle I could easily get my right hand up to the good side pull crimp. This horizontal beta felt a bit scary to commit to at first, but actually I don't think it was that hard. Since the rest of the climb is relatively easy, I personally wouldn't give this one more than a V8, but it is definitely a fun one 😁

Purple V7/V8 on the @yonder.climbing comp wall set by @joepartridge91 My favourite one from the new comp wall set with lots of interesting moves! I think the top section can probably be done quicker and easier if you are long enough to go directly to the last hold with the lower right foot. Having said that, it felt V7...maybe V8 to me 😁

Green "V8" @yonder.climbing A really nice pinchy one from the new cave set. Suits me perfectly, but I still think this one is soft. Felt easier than the Blue V7 next to it 😁. Thanks for the 📹 @ascensionindoors 👍

Blue V7 @yonder.climbing Pretty sure this was set as a paddle campus to hit the jug, but I was determined to find a static way there 😂. Tricky for a V7...those holds are pretty slippery! Thanks for the 📹 @ascensionindoors 👍

Blue "V9/V10" @thecastleclimbingcentre outdoor boulders I took advantage of the amazing weather today to soak up the sun and check out some of the outdoor boulders @thecastleclimbingcentre . I really enjoyed the setting...there was a lot of interesting movement and a nice variety of styles 👍. I highly recommend a visit! This one in particular was mentioned by several regulars as being one of the hardest blocks out there at the moment, so I was immediately intrigued. These first 2 moves are pretty savage and I've got to say it felt improbable to generate and cut on those slopey holds for the first few goes. After desperately sticking each move in isolation just once, I had this "lucky" go from the bottom where I just happened to hit everything perfect and was able to finish it off. This one definitely suited my strength of being able to get the most out of the friction on these types of holds. I ended up doing it very quick, but it still felt pretty hard and I could have just as easily spent the rest of the session falling off those first 2 moves. Having said that, I think I would give this one around V9 / V10. Let me know if you have tried it and what you think! 😁

One arm 4 finger half crimp with +20kg for about 8 seconds on the Beastmaker 2000 middle edge @climbingdistrictlondon A new PB again today on the fingerboard, this time on the 4 finger half crimp 🎉. Historically I've been weaker on this grip, however I've finally closed the gap and now it's about equal to my 3 finger drag. I didn't really expect to really keep up the progress on my hangs as I've generally been a bit heavier and kinda put less focus on them lately, but I still do them in warm up from time to time and guess that's all it takes 😁. Onwards and upwards 📈

Red "V9" (V10+ for me) @climbingdistrictlondon Set by @serenwyrd Pretty sure this was not the intended beta 😂. No way I could do the more obvious morpho comp style toe hook / dynamic / paddle / 1-2 / whatever you want to call it on slopers beta but I was psyched that I still found this interesting feet first way through it. I tend to be able to squeeze out more friction out of these types of holds than most, but still this beta felt very hard... nearly every move felt droppable. For me I would say this was more like V10 maybe V11 as a stand start. The low "V11" start feels a bit morpho for me too and I'm a bit more skeptical I can find a way there.. but we'll see 😁.