Prayer for a Friend (5.14a)-First Free Ascent
Over the last two summers I’ve invested effort into freeing this route originally climbed by @fitzcahall at (5.12-, C1) the C1 being a steep headwall finger splitter. Last summer I played with the route a bit and realized it was possible, and since then I haven’t gone a day without thinking about it. This route was a full circle moment for me. My first time in the area I climbed the Stanley-Burgner on Prusik in an epic 18 hour c2c. I had never had such an experience, and it changed my life entirely. Since then I’ve come back and climbed all of the other routes on Prusik Including a spiritual experience onsight soloing the Becky-Davis (5.9) a few years ago, on that day, as I down climbed the west ridge I got to stare straight at Prayer, I knew @nikscaryberry had put some work into it and I was blown away by its beauty. I took a picture which became my phone background for the next two years and I would show it to anyone who would listen to me ramble about how amazing the Washington mountains are. 20 year old me, who took that photo would lose his mind if you told him that he would be the first to free it.
the most amazing part of the process on this route was bringing my close friends into my favorite place. 4 of my close friends who helped support me had never been in the enchantments, getting to share their first time in the area with them reminded me of that 18 hour day 5 years ago.
I freed the route in imperfect style, I started from the ground Oct. 5th, sent all the pitches to the base of the crux (onsighting all except a foot slip on a 5.11 pitch) I gave a go at the headwall in the sun but failed to send. We topped out and then went back to camp. The next day we soloed up the west ridge and rapped into the crux. I tried it two times and sent on my second attempt! The best style would be all in the same day in a continuous push, but with the logistical difficulties this was the best I could do at the time and I’m proud of my performance regardless.
Thank you to everyone who has come to support me on this dream, I am grateful for you all
Photos by the amazing @vickyvicti@physivantage@chalkcartel
I rocked pink hair pretty hard for the 2024 Arapiles season.
@forrestpirate took these stellar photos of me trying Lord of the Rings that season. I had forgotten about these photos since I was nowhere near being able to climb the route at the time. These sat deep in my camera roll since I didn’t want to post photos of what evened up being an epic dogging session.
I got my crimp strength up enough to send the route this last October and wanted to share these because I think they are just so cool. (Although they show beta I absolutely did not use when I ended up doing it 😂)
I really enjoyed the pink hair season, maybe I’ll bring it back some time.
📸: @forrestpirate
Route: Lord of the Rings // 31
To bolt or not to be :)
One of the most inspiring routes and one that has always been a dream for me. During this trip my main goal was to see if I was ready to try this route again. When I tried this route in the past I was in peak form and climbing quite well. I saw some solid progress but ended up leaving smith earlier than planned. I needed that season with a high point of falling at the “rest” before the 9th bolt crux. Since then I’ve known it was important to me to come back and complete the journey on this route. Right after my 2023 season I entered a period of intense burnout, and I was left with uncertainty around my ability to climb at the level I was climbing at before. It felt like a year where every-time I went climbing was a reminder that I wasn’t able to perform the way I was previously.
Over the last 5 months I’ve started to feel fit, mentally healthy, and for the first time ever, quite strong. I became really excited about trying to complete this route during my time here at smith and I’m really proud to have clipped the chains yesterday after flowing up the first 9 bolts and then fighting my way to the top as I was much more pumped than I anticipated.
@mostlyclimbing happened to be down in the park and took some lovely photos and videos of my send.
We climbed Wet Lycra Nightmare!!
Kyle and I had our el cap plans stymied by weather so we decided to try and pick a challenge we thought could be fun for the week we had in the valley. We had 3 days to sort it all out and then give an attempt.
On Wednesday we got up early to give a go and felt awful. We barely got to the crux pitch by the time the sun came, and weren’t very close to getting it done. We rapped back to the midway ledge and waited out the sun, feeling a bit drained we jugged back up in the shade to have a few more attempts. Somehow we found some psych and energy and sent the crux pitch as the sun set. We then had to fight through the next 3 13a pitches in the dark, and ended up finishing at midnight. We got back to the car in time to make victory pancakes just as the rain started.
Very pleased to have gotten to have a fun adventure with a good friend during this short stint in Yosemite. It’s been great to spend time here again.
Lots has changed in my life since I was here last, it feels different to spend time here. I’m not the wide eyed overstoker that I was a few years ago, but I will always love this place, and I am happy to get the privilege to climb on these beautiful walls.
The last week I spent 3 days showing off The Enchantments to three foreigners. We had some overcast weather and a wet and cold night in the core zone but the team had a great time hanging in the beautiful Washington backcountry.
I have been hanging out and showing off Washington’s climbing to @livhldswrth and @sophie__sheppard all summer so ending their North America trip with some time in the mountains felt really special to me.
The last photo is of everyone’s favorite animal from the trip. A big cute marmot perched on his rock, with the headwall of prayer poking out in the background :)
Spent some quality time in the mountains recently, I’ve had 3 notable experiences in the past two weeks, the most novel for me was a climb of Mt. Baker’s North Ridge with @nathan358 we’ve had tentative plans to climb this route for two years. I had a lovely time learning a lot since this was my first time on a glacier and basically my first time with crampons on. Looking forward to playing with new forms of climbing. Climbing on the volcanoes in the cascades has always intimidated me due to the length of slogging required but I was pleased that we did the route 13hrs car to car, actually my shortest trip into the mountains recently for my largest objective! I guess advanced hiking isn’t quite as time consuming as I thought.
First photo is Nathan looking majestic
Second is after the rocky ridge and starting the steep snow up to the ice pitch
Third is Colfax and Lincoln and some crevasses above the clouds
Fourth is Mt Shuksan poking out above the clouds
Punks in the gym (32/5.14a)
It was a special experience to climb this route. Ihad always heard of it as an examination in rock climbing, and with it being the first 5.14 in the world it sat high on my list on my first trip to Australia last year. After clilbing on it a bit and watching @tasmarkia crush it I knew it would be the one goal I would have for my time in Arapiles this year. The route consisted of a very difficult and physical dead point that I could barely do in isolation last year. This year it felt a lot more attainable and after a few sessions I managed to send! I was happy to fit this project in with all the other joys of hanging out in Arapiles, during the season I went back and repeated Mr. Chicken with @anacuyuni , sent the great escape 28 with @gorisb , sent Final Departure 27 with @jayden.memory.cache , sent Slinkin Leopard 28 with @will.vidler on belay as usual. And as usual got to share the routes I was excited about with @vickyvicti hanging around and taking photos. Feeling really grateful for the community I got to share the season with ❤️❤️
@vickyvicti took this banger of the crux move of Punks and it may be my favorite sport climbing photo that’s been taken of me.
@physivantage
Victoria took some more 🔥🔥 photos from The Wizard of Oz that show off the position of the route. Feeling grateful for the places I get to share with my friends.
📸: @vickyvicti
THE WIZARD OF OZ // 32
Had a fun few days putting this Star Factory classic together! Consistently rad granite trickery on red rock above the ocean. Hard to beat!
📸 : @vickyvicti
Bad day to be a Sorcerer (and good day to be a rock climber)!
Adrian making quick work of the seldom climbed route the Sorcerer (27/5.12d), on the Totem Pole, Tasmania, Australia, after flashing the free route (25/5.12b)
Pit Fighter! (28)
The gang got psyched on this steep trad pitch in the Blue Mountains, I kicked off the send train and then @gorisb and @will.vidler clipped the chains as well. @vickyvicti took some rad photos as always. Been loving getting our ass kicked by the steep and powerful climbing here! It’s been a bit wet and rainy for summer down under but we’re still getting out and trying hard every day!
