Dead and Bloated f8B/V13 ✅️
My hardest and longest project to date, both physically and mentally. This one's taken more sessions than any thing else I've done.
P r o c e s s
The Tracks itself took around 6 sessions. Adding in the sit, took an additional 14 sessions. Session 8 of the sit, I realised the send was possible. The time between this session and the send was really challenging mentally. Because I knew I could do it, I felt like I should, and when I didn't session after session, I felt frustrated and it got harder to keep showing up, it drained me. Session 13 I couldn't repeat the first move, and was a breaking point. I couldn’t show up again until it felt right.
Last week, two months later, I decided it was time to reacquaint myself. Stepping away made all the difference, every move clicked, every hold felt right, and somehow, I found myself standing on top. It was a moment I’d visualized so many times, but being there in reality felt surreal.
D i f f i c u l t y
Its the hardest thing I've climbed and by far my hardest-earned send. Dead and Bloated breaks down into, what feels for me, an 8A/+ consisting of 3 hard moves and an intense foot walk, into The Tracks 8A/+ (personally 8A+). I think this makes for a very stiff 8B...
T h a n k Y o u
I've had so much support and psych from friends with this project, especially from @Mimi_chickpea who has been an absolute hero, bringing support and psych and so much more every session. I have so much gratitude 🫶
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#boulder #bouldering #climber #climbingismypassion #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #dreamlist #explore #fitness #inspired #northwales #northwalesbouldering #northwalesclimbing #outdoors #psyched #progress #project #rock #rockclimbing #stronger #training #UKbouldering #ukclimbing #welshrock #stiff
La Pequena Mowgli 8c ✅
Felt inspired to push myself this trip but having not done much in sport, I had very little idea what the right level would be.
I knew it would be totally dependent on the style, and that to tick anything of this grade, it had to be bouldery without an essence of endurance.
I was pretty psyched to send this fairly quickly in the first couple weeks of the trip, although after a fairly frustrating couple of sessions falling off the same low percentage move over and over again.
Funnily enough, on the send go, I made mistakes and fumbled, I was pretty certain I was coming off before I got to the crux, but somehow power screamed through it all to the top
Thanks to @mimi_chickpea for putting up with the brutal heavy hitting belays and the support and psych
#climbing #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #outdoors #explore #climber #sportclimbing #spain #spanishrock #travel #trip #vanlife #siurana #adventure #lacapella
Chronic f8B/V13 ✅
This was really the focus over summer, while working Cimwch Mewn Cwml, I always had the full line in the back of my mind and for most of that time, it was undone and the FA was up for grabs.
Like I said in my post for Cimwch Mewn Cwml, we all thought the full line could be harder, but through working the beta with Osian and Elliot, we found some knee bars which made Reu both more reliable and feel easier.
The hardest part of this for me, was still the second move and footwalk of Cimwch, which I could not repeat consistently, but when I did, trying to not numb out was my main crux. I fell off the upper part a few times from the start, but the other night, it felt pretty perfect and left me questioning if the line is as difficult as suggested? But I think it’s the classic case of when you dial something so much, it always feels easier on the send.
Anyway, an absolutely incredible problem which is so unlike anything else in North Wales, incredible movement on big holds, which has been such a fun projecting experience. Good effort @elliotclimbing on the FA a couple weeks back! And thanks to @osian_parry for putting in so much work into the development of this crag, it’s really special.
📸 @_mimi_white #shotbymimiwhite
#climbing #bouldering #climbing_is_my_passion #rock #rockclimbing #boulder #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #powerendurance #power #projecting #adventure #inspired #kingline #training #northwales #northwalesbouldering #northwalesclimbing #ukclimbing #ukbouldering #development #perfect #travel
Enter The Dragon f8A+/V12 ✅
Pretty psyched to tick this problem off. When I first looked at it a few years back, I didn’t think it was one I could do given the shouldery style and that I found 22 Chambers hard enough. Even though I can’t say I love limestone climbing generally, this is actually pretty mega and has a sick set of moves.
On an impromptu session on Wednesday, I managed to get all the moves done, and then had two goes falling off going to the two finger pocket. Getting established into the start of 22 chambers felt well hard. Psyched to have done all the moves and to make the link I did twice, I was back yesterday.
On my first try I matched my high point, and then again, and again, and again. I made the move I kept falling off easy multiple times while warming up, I played with beta and was sure I was doing it the best way for me. But on that fourth go falling off, feeling pretty tired in the shoulders at this point, I thought there must be another way, and I found this small smear that I might be able to drop knee off, it looked unlikely, but tried. Worked first time in isolation. So I thought, nothing to lose, gave it a go from the start and found myself at the top of the climb. I was and am so psyched with this one. Not without a fight though, I had to try really hard, enjoy 🔊
I then scraped my way through Enter The Flag f8A/V11 ✅ first try after.
Big thanks to Meems for being up for coming with me me bringing all the support and psych and making it such a sweet birthday weekend.
#climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #explore #climbing_is_my_passion
Echoes f8A/V11 ✅
Absolute gem of a find and FA by Osian. When @osian_parry first showed me this in 2023, I quickly did all the moves and thought it would go in a session or two. I was wrong, linking it all was more challenging than I expected and I had a fair few sessions that year falling off the last move. So it was pretty sweet to finally get back to it last night after a couple years and get it done in a couple of tries. Well worth the absolute solo mission down there.
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#rockclimbing #northwales #explore #bouldering #climbing
Y Ceidwadwyr f8A/V11 ✅ 💎
An absolute gem of a line and one of the best I’ve done in quite some time. Props to @osian_parry for bringing this to *back* to life. I have since heard this was put up in the 2000s, pretty mega. Definitely an underrated gem which should be a classic.
Couldn’t make it work with Osian’s beta of a left hand throw to the lip and after splitting my tip, I didn’t think it was going to happen. But was psyched to make the 1-2 deadpoint work. It doesn’t look that high up or that far in the video but committing it felt pretty intimidating.
Enjoy some beautiful bird song 🐦🎶
#rockclimbing #bouldering #explore #outdoors #climbing
The Clone f8A/V11 ✅ (FA)
The line I’ve envisioned for quite some time but didn’t see myself being the first ascensionist until I finally found a way to do Truancy (last week). But I still didn’t think I’d get it done this soon after, first try yesterday after warming up on all the moves.
Originally thought it may be 8A+, but felt 8A on the send. When using other problems at this crag as a basis for the grade, it doesn’t quite work but in isolation, this is what it felt.
This climbs Belly Button 7C+ into Truancy 7C. I didn’t use the belly button hold in the end, using a slightly higher sloped crimp, it felt more tensiony but more consistent. Along with my new beta for Truancy, both sections felt more consistent and on the lower end of the difficulty.
Regardless, I think it has some really cool movement on it and is a sick line.
Thanks for the psych to continue the send train @_mimi_white 👀
#rockclimbing #climbing #bouldering #explore #outdoors
soulboy f7C+/V10ish ✅ (FA - I think)
*I think* a cool new one up at Northern Soul in Llanberis Pass from yesterday. Starts to the right of Northern Soul, and has a nasty shoulder crux off of a two finger stacked full crimp on a pebble. There may be easier / better beta but this is what I could come up with. The pebble eats through the index, and the cold either made it feel way worse, or numbs the feeling and helps?
After getting it done, had a look on UKC and there is a line called Northern Deadpan 6C to the right of Northern Soul, which I think, starts a little more to the right and goes straight to the lip? So either I’ve climbed that with terrible beta, or it’s a new one? If anyone’s got some knowledge, please let me know.
Also got Northern Soul sit 7B/V8 done which was good fun and worthwhile. Didn’t quite make it to The Big Smile as planned as it was almost unbearable in the wind and cold, but hopefully can check that out soon.
🤳 @_mimi_white
#rockclimbing #climbing #bouldering #explore #northwales
Truancy Low f8A/V11 ✅
I’ve always found the higher start, Truancy 7C to be a nemesis for me. I kept trying the beta I’d seen in videos, and just couldn’t make it work, I didn’t feel close. But I just kept trying because that looked like the only beta. 4 years or so of spontaneously trying this beta over and over again and not trying anything else. This Christmas just gone, I started to explore and began finding different ways that could work, they all still felt low percentage and the right hand still felt terrible to me.
Yesterday, while warming up and trying to find the body positions, I realised I might be able to palm dyno it, and after a few punts, it worked. A few tries later, I was able to send the low. A nice little reminder to find beta and not stick to the cookie cutter beta you see everyone else do.
Now the proj is to climb Belly Button into this…
#rockclimbing #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #bouldering #explore
It Never Fuckin’ Ends ✅ (FAd by @gwilymtoss , proposed f8B/V13, edit: personal f8A/V11)
First off, fair play to Gwil for the FA. It’s a brilliant boulder and really cool climbing. Highly recommend getting on it.
I tried it once last year when it was still a project and got really psyched. I struggled with the stand start (Robins Can’t Be Stopped f7C/V9) but loved the moves into it. The tide cut that session short but the seed was planted.
Fast forward to Saturday, I arrived to perfect conditions. One of the first sunny days of the year and I was just stoked to be outside.
I did the stand first go and it felt pretty chill compared to last time. Normally I like to really dial moves before trying to send, but once I’d done each move something flipped in my head. I knew if I climbed well and tried hard I could send.
I felt determined but with no pressure. The headspace felt amazing.
First go from the sit I fell going to the slot crimp. It was on. Sixth burn I sent, and I felt completely in control. Everything clicked. I was just so psyched with where my head was at that day, almost more than sending itself.
~
I’m not in a rush to weigh in on the grade. I don’t want that to outweigh the experience I had on the problem and I don’t have an opinion I feel confident in yet. All I know is conditions were perfect, the boulder suits me really well, and I’m feeling stronger than I have before. Hopefully time will tell.
edit: after plenty of reflecting, I’m happy to suggest this felt f8A/V11 personally.
#climbing #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #explore
AWOL Apprentice RH f7C+/V10 ✅
From an optimistic session down in Tintagel a couple of weeks ago where it practically rained nonstop, I managed a very scrappy send of this.
At the start of February I tweaked my left shoulder, which meant I haven’t been able to use Gastons, especially overhead ones. That ruled out the beta most people use, so I had to come up with my own. I’m pretty sure it makes it a bit harder, but at least you don’t have to use the horrid finger lock.
When we got down there the rock was damp, the landing was wet and slidey, and sea mist kept rolling in off the swell. I figured this beta out quickly and felt fairly comfortable with it. I taped my index to avoid splitting it on the sharp left-hand crimp, but that meant I kept firing off the unwind, which then split my ring finger instead. Tired and feeling the pressure of the tide, I untaped the index and went for it.
I caught the sloped crimp from the unwind, but my fingers were numb. Normally when I’m climbing sloppy with numb hands, I don’t believe I have it. This time I told myself to keep going, forget the numb hands, forget not being spotted while feeling the worst I had on the end, forget the rock pool below and all the mistakes, just try hard and grit my teeth. My head got me the send when my body had basically given up.
Watching it back, I know I climbed terribly, but I’m proud of the try-hard, which I hadn’t really accessed in a long time.
Thanks for the psych and motivation @_mimi_white . We went back a couple of days later but everything was soaking so I couldn’t try the big link. Hopefully one day I’ll get a Cornwall trip where the weather isn’t the limiting factor for 95% of it.
#climbing #tryhard #bouldering #rockclimbing #explore
Belly Button f7C+/V10? (FA) ✅
Over Christmas I made the FA of this line. It’s a pretty fun sequence of moves and you make use of this cool little dimple, a belly button like hold, to release the heel. This is the crux for me.
I’ve tried this line very uncommittedly since I did Roof of a Baby Buddha but was trying to release the heel in a much harder way, until this day, when @_mimi_white suggested using this dimple. I initially thought the line would be f8A but I think this beta makes it a solid f7C+? 🤷♂️
The vision was to actually finish into Truancy f7C making it a more logical line, but I find this @fiddly_climbs line absolutely nails. But I’ve now found a way that works for me and hopefully I can go and finish off the true vision sometime, surely a hard 8A or maybe +? But it’s up for grabs if someone gets it done sooner for sure.
#climbing #bouldering #northwales #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion
