Tokyo Dyno
tried some different betas up by the last move and it just wasn't going. I think the move is to just throw for the last HS and hope it's good (hint: I've looked and it's not great) this one was either a V1 or 2, I forget. the hardest I sent in this gym was a V3 on an inside corner. I 100% cheesed it with height though.
05/23/24
Japan climbing gyms are no joke, even the slabs are hard for me...
Shout-out to the beanie man for being a homie, I don't think we shared any language but he has good vibes :)
mb on the angle here, the finish isn't visible. it's an upside down dual tex crimp tho. it's just big enough for the length of one finger so I'm thumb pressing up into the crimp and matching on the no tex part.
@krimp_cg
05/23/24
V6-8 "flag" slab
extremely fortunate that the right leg can just barely reach that lower hold for the top or else this would've been twice as scary. special shoutouts to @daniel_beall for the advice and conversation all sesh long as well as @yayjesse_g and @theonlyhannahsmith for being so chill and approachable! such a stellar weekend getting to meet many of our climbing heroes and see an IFSC comp in person. hopefully I can see a lead comp live next year 🧗
05/06/2024
V4-6 Slab, took me a minute to upload a Utah gym send
what the fuck is a broken collarbone 🗣️⁉️ since recovering from the fracture, I've been mostly rope climbing but I'm finally getting close to being 100% back to form in my bouldering.
05/06/2024
V3 in Cali with slippery rentals
I crushed all the 1-3s in this gym but this lil guy was pretty much the only one I couldn't flash. My first attempt was early in my sesh and I knew I had to stick this before I wrapped up. Kept slipping my feet, especially my right foot on the finish so I said screw it the right foot is gonna dangle on the finish. I've been working on being less reliant on my feet but these shoes were so worn they're probably stickier on no texture.
Broke my collarbone after Thanksgiving but it's been 100% healed since March. I've been mostly top roping and recently lead climbing (!!) but I've started to feel my bouldering come back to form. Honestly I kinda crushed a few today, I've just only been goin at peak hours and recording me send a V4-6 feels kinda silly when there's amateur pros waiting to get back on their V8+ project. Alas I'll wake up early one day and make it work 🫡
📸 at the end: @starscomeout
04/04/2024
Orange V4 + Lime V5 funky start sequences (feat. @japan_leaders tee)
Been radio silent here, largely due to my focus being taken up by the climbing league, which was promptly followed by a mostly accidental 3 week hiatus from climbing. Still don't feel like I've regained all my strength since I took that break (unironically need to get back on the 'teen).
Sent this V5 while it was unrated on my second try round early May. I'm thinking I'm like 95% back now. Tbh this V5 feels easier than the V4 to me but I think it's cuz I'm not doing the intended beta. I reckon it's cuz I'm moving to the final right foot off rip. Intended beta looks to me like a shoulders half plank position on the slopers to work the feet over from the volume, to the white wall, then the final foot on mural. Alas, I'm just long enough to skip.
05/26/23
Severe Drop Knee V4
this start is friggin hard to find the balance on. If I didn't trim off some attempts the video woulda been longer than the song.
got the big bag in a raffle about 6 weeks ago courtesy of the gym. kinda feels like they were just tryna get me to buy hella chalk though... took half of their supply to fill this big bag, not sure if I'll ever finish it
12/13/2022
Bicycle Start v2
Working on my weakness- overhang and top outs. Top outs are so shoddy they won't even be shown here... but I'm working on confident footswaps and driving my hips into the wall. Hopefully I won't tire out before the end of the Boneyard Comp next Saturday
10/31/2022
Slab V4 with a spicy toe hook
The day I was granted the knowledge of this toe hook beta was the day I started to see the 8th color that Roy G. Biv never could himself. That same day I found all 5 corners of a circle.
Also on that same day I learned that the crux on this isn't the toe hook, but actually in the back half. This is my third ever top on this boulder, and the messy feet really show. Looking forwards to some balancy slabs on the comp in a few weeks 😈
10/26/2022
Red Mantle V4
Even with the music so loud the rubber squeaking is still quite audible! Also from The Batman score, this is from the chase scene. I'm literally gonna go rewatch that scene it on Youtube right now. Just look up The Batman Chase Scene and HBO max has a free clip.
🐧🚗 📐 🦇🏎️💨
Real fun one, first top took me about 3 minutes cuz I didn't know about that left foothold near the arete so I couldn't find a finish position. It's become a quick favorite of mine cuz I'm just loving that volume in the corner- it's great fun and gets me pumped quick.
10/24/2022
