Hand flamed purple screws for @thebrysonwong .
Precision in artistry.
A small touch of color to match the gorgeous purple dial.
Bespoke edition @alcaduswatches Alcadus Quantra Type 1.
Mido Direct Time
FHF29 / 29-1
1930s ? 1940s ?
15 jewels
2.5 Hz, 18000 bph
This jump hour belongs to a friend’s friend. It’s the second jump hour I serviced, and features a vertical layout like the Cartier Tank à Guichets.
It first arrived to me with its hours unable to jump. I found out the case was too close to the hour disc preventing it from jumping.
Upon disassembly, I found out that some “expert”watchmaker had glued the hairspring stud to the balance bridge. He also glued the stud screw after stripping the threads…
I gently poked at the top of the hairspring stud, hoping that the stud will come loose. It did, and I re threaded the stud screw to fit a slightly larger thread.
Movement layout was interesting. The cannon pinion is riveted with a snail cam system like a retrograde function.
How the jump hour works is honestly very cool. It differs quite a bit from my personal Wittnauer and quite complex and annoying to put back 😫. After fixing it back together, there seems to be enough clearance for the hour disc to jump nicely.
Damn I wish I could get a jump hour like his 😫 but they go for quite a high price ( I’m still a student🤡)
#watchmaker#watchmakerlife#watchmaking#watchmakinglife#singaporewatch#watchrepair#watchnerd#vintagewatchesonly
290625
Kingston Datofix Triple Calendar Moonphase
Record 107C
1940s ? 1950s?
17 jewels
2.5 Hz, 18000bph
So after fixing triple calendars for clients , I was heavily tempted to get one for myself. I found one that truly piqued my interest and i rushed to bid for it, right while I was waiting to fly back to Indonesia.
Presenting to y’all, my freshest and most costly acquisition, which ticks off another complication I’ve been hunting for 🥳. I felt this one was special due to the 12 o clock moonphase, since they are commonly at the 6 oclock. The symmetry of the whole movement was really pleasing to me.
As per the last triple calendars, I will be skipping the base movement again. The springs were comparable to the Zodiac I did before sine it is also a triple disc layout. It features 2 stacked springs which I have never seen before. Certain components required both hands to set them in place and prevent movement.
Later I found out that this movement, the Record 107C, is actually an in house movement! In the early 1950s, Record was one of the few independent watch manufacturers to have an in-house movement calibre with triple date moonphase complication.
As of 1954, apparently only 8 brands had their own triple calendar moonphase calibres, including Record, AP, VC, Omega and JLC.
Each of the triple calendars I’ve experienced are all different, quirky and interesting in their own right. All were a joy to work on and I am thankful for clients in trusting me with such timepieces. This one will definitely be a joy to wear each time, and a joy to see the hands and discs flip at midnight.
140426
Triple Calendar
Invicta
1940s ? 1950s?
17 jewels
2.5 Hz, 18000bph
My second triple calendar fixed after @dialupwatch ! This one has a sterling silver case and 4 cutouts in the case for the 4 quickset pushers. Whats makes this one interesting is that, they aren’t actually pushers but rather clickers? You use your fingernails to hook the clickers and pull on it to adjust the different star wheels
I will be skipping the base movement as y’all have seen me do time only pieces too many times alr. The triple calendar additions are what makes this movement so unique to work on.
It is considerably simpler than the first Zodiac I did. But the troublesome part comes from having to set all the hands exactly at the letters or numbers so that they accurately display information.
I had great fun servicing this movement and thank you for allowing me to work on such a cool watch!
010326
Sterling silver case
Tonneau shaped
Cartier ish
Vulcain movement
15 jewels
2.5Hz , 18000 bph
Simple time only movement with my favorite triple bridge design. Given as a gift by someone for servicing a few watches hehe.
Interesting keyless works, very very big thank you to the dude on Facebook who managed to help identify the movement by its distinctive balance cock.
Fairly simple straightforward rebuild. Purpled the crown wheel, ratchet wheel and hands hehe
080126
Didn’t overthink the pairing. Togo leather, classic case, done.
The Altesse has this quiet kind of presence, nothing shouts, everything sits right. The strap fits the watch like it was always meant to be there, and honestly it’s been one of the more comfortable wrist combos I’ve had in a while. These are some of the details I’ve been appreciating since it landed.
⌚️: @universalgeneve Altesse
👞: @nomadwatchworks Classic Togo Leather Strap
#universalgeneve #watchphotography #wristwatchcheck #watchcollecting #nomadwatchworks
LIP
R25, R25A
1950s
17 jewels
2.5 Hz, 18000bph
So this was a gift from my good friend Oliver @orb_wheels.watches all the way in the UK
Tbh I thought of scrapping it as it came with a broken arbor screw and missing crown wheel screw, broken setting lever spring
But I was lucky to chance upon a centre seconds variant of the R25 called R25A
My curiosity got the better of me and I thought what if I could combine the two movements ( a sub second and a centre second together). Not as crazy as @hodinkyberkus yet but it’s a step there 😂
So it was ultimately successful after changing certain wheels and jewel settings with my new tool from @lothwatches . Also allowed me to precisely push in the indirect driving wheel . Managed to get amazing endshake and amplitude.
Hands are of course blued to almost Breguet blue. I decided to put both seconds hands 30s apart as I liked seeing them intersect at 0/30s.
Overall it was a super fun project that I never knew could work, and I am glad to call it my own special variant.
Thanks Oliver !
300326
A simple change that made all the difference. The Universal Genève Altesse on a classic black Togo strap, and it just feels right. A pairing that settles in naturally. 👌
Also, turns out I’ve been pronouncing Altesse wrongly this whole time. 😅😂
⌚️: @universalgeneve Altesse
👞: @nomadwatchworks Classic Togo Leather Strap
#universalgenevealtesse #universalgeneve #nomadwatchworks #djiosmonano
The crystal is so scratched it’s basically a diffuser filter for vintage photography. But really thanks @dialupwatch@wristedandwasted@thebrysonwong for letting me work on your amazing timepieces
Universal Geneve
Cal 42, Cal 1-42
1960?
17 jewels
3 Hz, 21600bph
After a little persuasion from my own UG Altesse, Bryson joins the UG club too!
When I received it, my goodness the dial was immaculate
Cal 42 is known for its thinness and reliability and this certainly did not disappoint. Fitment and endshakes were exceptional with me not spending more than 1 minute to align the train bridge pivots.
I was not used to hearing the slightly quick ticking of 3Hz as compared to my usual 2.5Hz watches but it was a good change of pace.
Assembly was quick, easy and enjoyable.
Looking forward to which watch Bryson would get next !
270326
Wonderful evening with @jaquetdroz & Alain Delamuraz, CEO of Jaquet Droz. Big thanks to @legacywatch.ltd Sean and Kevin for making today possible!
Wow where can I start, the moment I entered and sat down, I’m just face to face with tons of beautiful enamel, lacquer, mother of pearl, gold and silver.
Raphael, head of sales was very excited to show me all that Jaquet Droz has to offer, from complications to brand direction.
Although the Japanese garden inspired piece didn’t contain any automatons, I was blown away by the intricacy of the details from the pagoda, to the koi fish and branches.
Then he brought out the flagship charming bird where I got to hear the sounds of a bird mechanically recreated using air pressure and speed.
I frankly am blown away I can’t put all my thoughts into words hahaa
