HW&F
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The Max BĂźsser era at Harry Winston (roughly 1998â2005, when he served as Managing Director/CEO of the Rare Timepieces division at just 31 years old) is widely regarded as a transformative and revolutionary period for the brandâs watchmaking, elevating it from a jewelry-focused house to a serious player in haute horlogerie.
BĂźsser injected bold vision, energy, and a passion for unconventional high-end watchmaking. His most iconic contribution was launching the Opus series in 2001âan annual, ultra-limited âconcept watchâ project that collaborated with talented (often independent or emerging) watchmakers to create groundbreaking, highly complicated timepieces unlike anything else on the market.
Each Opus was a one-of-a-kind exploration of mechanics and design:
⢠They featured never-before-seen complications, futuristic aesthetics, and innovative displays (e.g., resonance in Opus 1 with F.P. Journe, jumping hours/minutes with âghosts in the machineâ in Opus 3 with Vianney Halter, or other radical mechanisms in later editions).
⢠Production was extremely limited (often 20â55 pieces per model), making them instant collector grails.
⢠The series pioneered the modern idea of âconcept watchesâ in luxury watchmakingâpushing boundaries with audacious creativity while blending technical mastery and artistic spectacle.
This approach not only brought prestige and relevance to Harry Winstonâs watch division but also helped spotlight independent watchmakers, kickstarting a wave of collaborative, boundary-pushing horology that influenced the entire industry. Many credit BĂźsser with modernizing high-concept independent watchmaking; the Opus success directly inspired his founding of MB&F (Maximilian BĂźsser & Friends) in 2005, where he continued that rebellious, innovative spirit.
In short, the BĂźsser era turned Harry Winston watches into something special: not just luxurious jewelry-adjacent pieces, but daring, collectible horological art that challenged conventions and celebrated creativity through collaboration. Pieces from this period (especially the early Opuses) remain highly sought-after today for their historical significance and sheer originality.
