Every good swell starts with the same question: board or camera? Both feel like the right answer. This day I did both.
Late April. This swell was the kind spring saves for a goodbye. Not a quiet one. A few hours in the water, some waves I'll remember for a while, a few wipeouts I won't forget either. Then out, dry hands, camera.
Why is it that as the evening gets colder, the light gets warmer?
At sunset, blue light scatters and disappears. Only orange, amber and gold has traveled the entire length of the atmosphere to get to you. It's the light that refused to give up.
Here, on the cold edge of the Atlantic, you feel it more than anywhere else.
That evening the sky turned pink and the ocean turned the kind of blue you can't name. The people out there weren't in a hurry. The ocean never is either.
One unforgettable day in early March.
The sun was gentle, the waves were tapping you on the shoulder like an old friend, and we were all stoked together.
📷 @zina_zzz 💚
Great evening at the Surfboard Shaper Talk.
Really inspiring to hear Baptiste from @endless_fun_surfboards and @rubyknox515 talk about custom boards, the relationship between surfers and shapers, and even the less talked-about side of shaping — how surfboard production isn’t the most eco-friendly craft, and why supporting local shapers matters.
Also so good to see so many people from our amazing local surf community in one room.
Big thanks to @thewetsuitcompanystrandhill for hosting and @kinnegar for the beers.
From foam to form — always a quiet kind of magic.
A few frames from the @endless_fun_surfboards factory, where @harrypullarsurfboards was shaping a moon tail for Irish winter slabs.
Sadly, the board is gone too soon. But there's always another blank, and I'm sure the next one will be even better, Harry!
Some of my favorite surf photos I shot last year — never posted until now.
Sadly, I don’t know everyone who ended up in front of the lens — tag your friends if you recognize someone.
If boards could collect air miles, this one would be gold status this year.
"Always a bigger fish" by @endless_fun_surfboards — turned lazy days into glide sessions and bigger days into rocket rides.
Can’t wait for the next swell to give this missile a go.
Every new day with you is better than the last. Happy birthday, my love @zina_zzz 💖 And here's a little collection of my favorite photos of you from this year!
Winter mornings start in darkness, and you never really know what you’re waking up to. Sometimes it’s just wet wind. But then there are days like this — when the sky burns with color, the mountains catch a dusting of snow, and steam rises off the ocean. Moments that make getting up early feel absolutely worth it.
And if you end up sharing the lineup with @barrybrittonart himself — that’s a straight-up legendary morning.
Thanks to my lovely @zina_zzz for photos from the beach, and to Baptiste @endless_fun_surfboards for the board that makes days like this even better.
