Sally
My best surf day ever was with my brother, his mates, and my Brazilian friend Lucia. We got up in the dark on the North Shore, Hawaii. My brother was staying at Kuilima— Turtle Bay Hilton — and we planned to surf Backyards but the boys got sent in, so Velzyland was our next option. We paddled out into pumping waves.
Then the air raid sirens started. Police shouted over loudhailers for everyone to get out of the water — a tsunami warning had been called. We evacuated fast. I was living with Brazilians at Sunset Vistas, and they were packing everything, even though it was a two-story building. We were told to head for higher ground. In the chaos, I lost my brother and his mates. They ended up on the hill above Foodland, watching the panic — locals rushing with pigs, chickens, and possessions. I walked up Comsat with my Brazilian friends who, of course, were totally chilled.
From up there we watched the most perfect north swell lines I’ve ever seen rolling into Sunset Beach. Not everyone made it out of the surf. The sirens kept blaring. The air was hot, heavy, and electric with anticipation. When the tsunami finally hit, it was just 10cm higher than the wave before it but the swell was a clean, solid 10ft. Classic America: big, loud, dramatic.
The North Shore is always a mix — army, jarheads, surfers, and all kinds of characters— but that day the energy felt amplified. Waves, sirens, fear, adrenaline — everything buzzing at once. Long story short: if we hadn’t paddled out in the dark, we would have missed the session completely thanks to the tsunami warning. My brother and his friends still have photos and memories from that day.
🏄🏻♀️🏄🏻♀️🏄🏻♀️
Sally’s story is one of the 30 stories
@lisettedrew is sharing this September to raise funds for
@surfaid - an organisation supporting those living in remote surf communities.