Subtraction Cutting

5 meaningful days spent with students at CEDIM in Monterrey, Mexico🇲🇽 On Day 1 We started with a cross-disciplinary talk and live dissection, followed by a ‘Body Language’ zero waste workshop making garments from typographic forms. On Day 2 we cut 30 tunnel dresses each uniquely different, first demonstrated live with a 6-hole dress named ‘Maria’. On Day 3 we had a gestural painting and drawing session to loosen our lines/minds, followed by further tunnel technique experimentation with one instruction: Make a change. On Day 4 we experimented with Crazy Leg tubes making trouser legs, sleeves, and hoods tested on human bodies through movement. On Day 5 we caught up with ourselves, exhibiting the work and celebrating. I was invited as a visiting professor to CEDIM to introduce my Subtraction Cutting research to 50 undergraduates as part of their ‘WorldClass Educator’ program, and at the very end (quite unexpectedly) was handed an award for my contribution to education here 🏆📜 I don’t usually receive awards or prizes so was very happy to receive one🙏 Well done all! ❤️‍🔥j✂️ @cedim_moda @cedim @uopfashiondesign @uniportsmouthcci @portsmouthuni @subtractioncutting #subtractioncutting

Ongoing research interests include the movement of bodies, gravity, textiles and time. Thanks to Sam Birmingham at @uniportccixr for the mocap & vocap recordings. At some point i’ll find time to figure out some correlations between the #subtractioncutting data capture and the garments movement worn. Need to first learn the software and grow some additional arms✂️🦑 @uniportsmouthcci @portsmouthuni @uopfashiondesign

Two great days spent in Istanbul, Türkiye🇹🇷experimenting with #subtractioncutting tunnel tubes for the torso, legs, arms, head… using the physical body and movement to help develop and adapt fashion design with closer human connection. Great fun! Thank you @irina_akkaya for hosting me, and for the talented students for undertaking 10 intense hot days of workshops in the company of great pattern cutting talents: @ewstfashion @tr_cutting_school @irina_akkaya & i @subtractioncutting ! This was a flying visit straight after Singapore travels, which ended with a beautiful boat trip on the Bosphorus crossing the continents of Europe to Asia. Türkiye is a real hub of activity and culture mix. Proud to contribute a little something to that🙏 @trcuttingturkey

Time moves in mysterious ways… Here i am 32 years ago about to graduate showing my six outfit collection at Northumbria University (or Newcastle Polytechnic as it was called when i first started there), on the catwalk at Graduate Fashion Week at the Business Design Centre in Islington, 1994. I’d previously the year before completed long work experience placements at Katherine Hamnett and John Richmond in London, had won a black dress award by Jasper Conran who’d i’d later go on to work for as an assistant designer, and was next on my way to study MA Menswear at the Royal College of Art full of hope and fear. Who’d have thought i’d become a teacher!! Back then I was hellbent on becoming the next Galliano/Gaultier/Kawakubo but that wasn’t to be my luck or calling. Perhaps it’s not too late?🤣 Sending lots of good wishes to everyone completing their final assessments and getting ready to show/exhibit, contemplating those next steps forward in uncertain futures: Grow with the many changes/stages, feel proud of being YOU, compartmentalise the good experiences and the bad, seek new challenges and let them find/reshape you ✂️🎨🌍 Thanks to all my teachers at Newcastle: Douglas, Gill, Paul, Gary, and to the Geordie technicians who passed on their knowledge and raised me in their workshops!🪡🧵🔧 @northumbriauni @graduatefashionfoundation @royalcollegeofart @londonfashionweek @uopfashiondesign

Reverse Subtraction Cutting demonstration today at the University of Portsmouth Open Experience Day, where students learned all about the BA Fashion Design course and tried out some experimental approaches to pattern cutting!✂️💥 During the session we dissected apart a special dress named ‘Victoria’ which I made back in October 2023 when our final year students were newbie 1st years, cut for super-tutor @toria_victoriajowett and constructed from 6-holes. Thank you Sara Skillen and Mari Bendeliani for accompanying me today. @uopfashiondesign @portsmouthuni @uop_fabricstudios @uniportsmouthcci

✂️¿Qué pasa cuando el diseño se construye desde la incertidumbre? En este BoK, Julian Roberts, creador de la técnica subtraction cutting (@subtractioncutting ), llevó la conversación más allá de una conferencia tradicional para convertirla en una experiencia dinámica, interactiva y experimental. A través del juego, la improvisación y la aceptación del error, su enfoque replantea la manera en que se concibe el diseño de moda: no como algo que se controla, sino como algo que se descubre en el proceso. Más que aprender una técnica, fue una invitación a cuestionar lo establecido y explorar nuevas formas de crear. Así, la presencia de World-Class Educators en ©️CEDIM abre nuevas posibilidades para las futuras generaciones de diseñadores, acercándolos a metodologías que están redefiniendo la industria. #CEDIM #TheSchoolOfDesign #ThinkTheUnthinkable #WorlClassEducator

✂️Conoce a Julian Roberts En este reel, Julian Roberts (@subtractioncutting ), nuestro World-Class Educator, nos da una mirada a su forma de entender el diseño: un proceso donde la experimentación, el riesgo y lo inesperado son parte fundamental del resultado. Más que buscar respuestas claras, su enfoque invita a trabajar desde la incertidumbre, aceptar el error y descubrir nuevas posibilidades a través del proceso. Un espacio donde cada estudiante construye su propio camino, enfrentando sus propios retos y encontrando soluciones únicas. Una forma distinta de aprender diseño… donde lo importante no es solo el resultado, sino todo lo que sucede en el camino. #CEDIM #TheSchoolOfDesign #ThinkTheUnthinkable #WorlClassEducator #Subtractioncutting

‘ƎƧЯƎVƎЯ‘ #subtractioncutting dissection talk today at CEDIM in Monterrey, Mexico🇲🇽 I brought with me a prototype dress named ‘Katerina’ which i’d previously cut live for students at @istitutomarangoni_london in May 2024. Today during my talk it became worn by student Maria and swiftly dissected apart flat to reveal the 6 hole spaces within it - some of which relating to my body movements as i chalked the lines, and some relating to cross-sections of Katerina’s hip circumference. After today it returns to the UK to be hand stitched into quilts by @maribendeliani_00 so that it becomes once again an object of use. @cedim

This is a 7 year project with Mari that first started as a painting of Pluto using white acrylic paints on black cotton applied by hand/body made in a hotel room in Kachreti in the Republic of Georgia. It was then constructed into a Tunnel Dress using 9 subtracted holes and exhibited a month later at the ‘Speed of Thought’ exhibition at the Newington Gallery in London UK. During the Private View artist talk it was live dissected apart to reveal the painting and holes hidden within the dress, and laid out flat for the remainder of the exhibition. It then sat in a draw a few years before Mari started reassembling and hand-stitching into it with appliqué scraps from garment waste. It’s now become a large quilt, not entirely finished yet. We wonder what it might become next in its evolution and where it may next become seen and experienced again. Or perhaps it will keep us warm a few winters first. Artists: Mari Bendeliani and Julian Roberts Pluto 2019-2026 Painted and stitched by @maribendeliani_00 Cut into a dress and dissected by @subtractioncutting #subtractioncutting

✂️DISSECTION - an introduction to Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts Julian Roberts (@subtractioncutting ) llega como World-Class Educator para compartir la técnica que él mismo desarrolló, un método que replantea la construcción de prendas desde la eliminación del material para generar volumen, forma y movimiento. Más que seguir reglas, esta técnica parte del juego, la improvisación y la aceptación del error como parte del proceso creativo. Aquí, el diseño no se planea: se encuentra. A través de cortes rápidos, formas abstractas y resultados inciertos, el patronaje deja de ser un paso previo para convertirse en el diseño mismo. Una invitación a soltar el control y explorar nuevas posibilidades dentro de la moda. 📅 Lunes 06 de abril 🕘 09:00 a.m. 📍 ©CEDIM Área Lounge *Impartido en inglés.* #CEDIM #TheSchoolOfDesign #ThinkTheUnthinkable #WorlClassEducator

‘Body Language’ Today we explored some experimental zero waste pattern cutting using typography to create accidental garment shapes. Inspired by observing @holly__mcquillan cut garments from words 15years ago at Massey University, NZ. Well done L4 @uopfashiondesign @uniportsmouthcci @portsmouthuni ✂️

INTERESTED IN STUDYING FASHION AT PORTSMOUTH? Here are two free fashion and textiles workshops at the University of Portsmouth @uniportsmouthcci you should visit and experience!🫵 Saturday 21st March Join us in our natural dye print workshop, where you will mix your own natural dye print paste from scratch and explore the process of creating colour for textiles. Session lead by Vici Jowett @toria_victoriajowett and Lara Torres @laramgtorres ✂️ Saturday 25th April Join us for an exciting Subtraction Cutting workshop where you will explore the creative possibilities of experimental garment cutting and construction. Session lead by Julian Roberts @subtractioncutting with special guest artist Mari Bendeliani @maribendeliani_00 Both sessions also include opportunities to see past and present student work and ask your questions about studying Fashion Design. The workshops are free and designed to be inclusive and welcoming to all skill levels. For more information and to sign up visit @uopfashiondesign or follow the link in my profile. Venue: University of Portsmouth, Eldon Building, Winston Churchill Avenue, Portsmouth, Hampshire, PO1 2DJ