For Christabelle. A familiar house silhouette, reimagined in a fluid, gossamer-weight organza that appears to float on the breeze 💙
Featuring hair & makeup by @victoriahan_makeup .
#qipao #cheongsam
Sometime on the first day of the Lunar New Year, between bites of my grandmother’s steamed yam cake, Sub Rosa’s first feature on Vogue went live.
Honoured and grateful to @voguesingapore for the opportunity to speak about one of my favourite things ever — the cheongsam, and what it means to me — and to be in the good company of other cheongsam champions in Singapore.
My mind is brimming with thoughts and anecdotes like the ones I mentioned in the piece, because all you amazing Sub Rosa women make these stories incredibly alive for me, every single day. Thank you.
Scroll to the end for a few extra photos: first, at the workbench, getting ready to use some of the lace from @vantokxx ’s granny’s kebaya for her wedding cheongsam. Second, at my desk, contemplating the thoughtful questions by @azrin.t , while staring at the vintage fabric advertisement I’ve had for a decade, with pankous for my next project off to the side. A bit of a full circle moment. For the first time, I read the words “快樂小姐” and thought to myself — yes, that’s me too 🤍
Jules x
Cashmere coats — in progress, in waiting, in the studio and out in the world!
It has been a great joy for us to bring our beloved double-faced cashmere coats to you this season. What started out as silhouettes we refined and tested for ourselves, has now been multiplied and given new life in custom editions for your winter wardrobes. And we couldn’t be happier thinking about all the journeys they will accompany you on, and how fabulous they will make you feel.
If you’re keen on having one for the upcoming cold months, this is a last call —
For cashmere coats to be made by March 2026, orders must be in by the first week of January 2026. DM us for appointments and to learn more.
These have to be felt in the hand and worn on the body, to be fully appreciated. Please be warned — once you do this, you’ll know why we’re obsessed, and there’s just no going back from there ❤️🔥
Yours,
Sam & Jules
I really believe our personality comes through in what we wear. Clothing is often the strongest way we extend our sense of self to the world.
This is exactly how I remember these two from our sessions. They were always ever so full of energy, joy, and laughter. They are every bit as bright and authentic as the clothes they’re wearing.
There is a common narrative that every man needs to own a standard navy two-piece suit. It is great sales talk. But, honestly, I’ve never found that to be true (apart during my first two years wandering obsessively in the world of tailored menswear like a fanatic bordering on cosplay)(don’t laugh, you probably did it too)(#growth). It is much more important to own pieces that actually resonate with who you are and the life you are living. If the traditional uniform doesn’t belong in your wardrobe, drop it.
And I love Jonathan’s choice for this. It is very him, capturing both the ease and the quirkiness of it all. It is fun! (I’ll admit, Julia’s outfit wins the day here but that’s a given because it’s @subrosa_studio ). We cut a boxy leisure coat from a wool-mohair blend (@standeven1885 ), which is not common for this style here at In Personam. We usually save this silhouette for softer cloths like linen, but the colour and texture of this fabric were too difficult to resist.
Mohair has such a distinct, natural lustre. In this shade of dark raspberry, the jacket has a real sense of vitality without feeling flighty. Jonathan wears it here with a crisp white mandarin collar shirt and a pair of dark navy pleated wool trousers.
As for Julia’s attire, well, that’s a whole other exciting story over at Sub Rosa.
#InPersonam
#bespoke#tailoring
CONFETTI LIGHTS —
For @julley , who radiates joy, light and colour. A rainbow array of the tiniest crystal beads, sewn individually on a bodice fully covered in clear sequins, paired with a slim column skirt and sheer crepe scarf.
There’s so much I have to share about how this look came to be. When we first met, we knew right away that this look needed to serve elegance, while also showcasing her love for texture, fun and the unconventional.
—
The sequinned fabric for the bodice was our starting point. It is rare and unique because the sequins are laid out in a regular pattern, in a single layer of clear sequins. This creates the effect of a mesmerising high-gloss shine, catching the light so evenly and beautifully, as opposed to a flashier sparkle that sequins typically create.
We wanted to go further, and decided to work with the inherent pattern of the sequins to cover it with another grid of coloured beads. Our initial idea was to do this in a metallic duo of silver and gold beads. But Julia ran with my suggestion of going with a brighter palette, through faithfully repeating rows of alternating colours, from citrine, to mint green, emerald, sunset pink and ocean blue. No shortcuts. Hours of counting sequins, mapping out the colours, sewing the beads in pairs and covering the entire bodice with them.
—
A thousand little decisions go into making any garment. But I believe that is in these tiny forks in the road that soul, personality and life are imbued into a physical object.
Scroll to the end for a final surprise that only came to me in the last few days of working on this piece. A hidden initial, rendered in dots and dashes, for the first names of both the bride and groom ♥️
Alyson & Jeremy, in Sub Rosa & In Personam. A very happy anniversary to you both!
One year on and we still love the pieces we made for them. On Alyson, a fitted heavy satin dress featuring an elegant square neckline and playful, pleated tulle sleeves, which were removable. For Jeremy, a suit in dark chocolate, made from @standeven1885 super 150s wool and cashmere.
Vintage coat buttons, found by chance in a sleepy alpine town.
I was on vacation in February, with work being the last thing on my mind after a hectic season. We were in search of breakfast, but we happened upon a small craft store instead, run by an older lady.
There are many stores, buildings and streets dedicated to selling buttons elsewhere in the world. But I’ve seen enough of them to know that while they may all get the job done, not many ever feel this delightful to look at and hold. They’re from a time when things were just made better. Someone once cared enough to design these tiny buttons, and the tinier details that went within them. And now they are tangible little jewels. Our connection to that moment in time.
And as with things from a different time, the lady didn’t have much stock left. Just a few sets and a handful of random single buttons. She looked perplexed at how much we wanted them. When we explained that we were tailors from Singapore, she excitedly threw a few extras in our bag, insisting we take them as gifts.
And as we left, she waved us goodbye and said, “fighting!!”. The only word of English she spoke that whole time.
These buttons are now available for bespoke jacket orders, if desired. Some have already been reserved. For those of us who are so lucky to have them, just know that this big-little story is wrapped up in them too, along with this lady’s best wishes for us all to fight the good fight. May the things we love always find us, even when we aren’t looking.
Jules x
P.S. I’m out of the studio and out of the country this week! In search of inspiration, learning and newness. More soon!
The bride held lily of the valley, stephanotis, coronilla valentina, summer sweet pea & fritillaria thunbergii. #wemakefloralmagic
… and she wore @subrosa_studio 🤍
hair & make up @carchan.makeup
Every time Steph texts me with an idea, it is a thrill.
What I love most about co-conspiring with her is that the design brief is never too precise. A high-neck halter, in this case.
And yet, she is crystal clear where it counts — in the feeling and attitude the piece is meant to evoke. It’s got to be simple. Elegant. And most importantly, it’s got to be FUN. And oh, we had fun.
A high-neck, halter-style evening gown in a midnight blue satin cut on the bias, with a detachable layered ruff collar and elongated slim keyhole back. Over the fittings, we went fuller and bigger with the collar, and eventually included layers of sparkle netting that catches the light like a starlit sky.
Moments from Jewel & Maanas’ wedding at home.
Though women’s suiting can often be thought of as sharp and sleek, Jewel’s bespoke bridal satin jacket is a study in softness.
It features — a shawl collar with a continuous edge, unbroken by any notches or seams. A fitted waist that extends into a pleated peplum hem. Corded bow accents held in place by tiny, nearly invisible bar tacks. Paired with a column skirt in the same fabric and long-stemmed lilies. And their adorable cat, Chap!
We didn’t get to document this piece before sending it off to Jewel, and I feel so fortunate to have these portraits by the inimitable @sirhanhazicky as keepsakes 🤍
Make up @vichwangmua
Maanas’ suit @inpersonam.cc
Meditations on the cheongsam, our way —
A statement in simplicity. Tradition, not clung on too tightly to. Harmony, balance, and everything in its place. Thank you, @agneschionh . It’s been a joy ringing in the new year with you ♥️
Featuring hair & makeup by @vichwangmua & floral arrangement by @echevaria.co .
#qipao #cheongsam
