Devilution v16 ~
Psyched on this one. Devil adds 2 moves into Evil. A hard drive by off a bad pinch followed by a long move to the start of the stand. No texture and very few feet options makes this thing super powerful. First move is the business but linking the 2 moves together becomes the crux. A full body tension move followed by a snappy jump. It’s all about getting the shoulder well enough and having enough in the tank in the right arm to link the second move. I thought it was close to over when I got into the stand. I wasn’t prepared for how pumped and numb I was on the final moves, almost lost it up there. Full value experience.
Pic @johnkasaian@scarpana@petzl_official
One year anniversary of Next Gen. It’s been a pretty wild ride. Through the highs and the lows one constant thought has balanced me in these moments of decompression. I fucking love this shit. I’m grateful for our personal growth. I’m grateful for Next Gens growth. I’m grateful for the hard work everyone is putting in. Thanks to all our staff, thanks to @yuuyak7 , @yankeeeeeeeeeee , and @zaragossa31 for such a special set. Most importantly thank you Miho for being the only one of a kind person that would start us on this wild journey that we’re on.
Duality of Man 5.15d
Dry Canyon, AZ
After 4 total years and 3 seasons of climbing I was able to climb Duality. Dry Canyon did not host the easiest tactics. With only an hour or two of shade a day and sporadic weather windows, I had to find a level of patience unlike any other route I’ve climbed on. This was by far the longest I’ve spent on a project, the most obsessed I’ve been with a project, and the hardest thing I’ve climbed.
I don’t have much to say other than I’m excited to share the flick, check it out in the @mellowclimbing film tour.
@neilson.ben 📷
@petzl_official@scarpa_world
We’re proud to announce the first Mellow Film Tour.
Come watch the next generation make history.
Premiering February 27th at the Boulder Theater.
Tickets and additional info on mellowclimbing.com
Supported by: @thenorthface@vibram@yeti@blackdiamond
Sick lil post send day out at Magic Wood. Put down Mystic Stylez (8B+) and New Base Line (8B+). Crimp and top out were wet ass but this thing is amazing so I had to try. The holds are good and it’s honestly hard to imagine the grade from the ground. It puts you in some super physical positions with a hard transition to the stand and less feet than you want. It’s a cool feeling, thing is a stunner with some really unique movement. @petzl_official@scarpa_world
Nice mini trip to Finland, cool to finally see what this thing is about. First move feels pretty legit. I didn’t find it so hard to get to the distance, and the ending position felt pretty good to me as well. I was finding the difficulty in the transition between recruiting to generate and recruiting to hold the next edge. Way more technical than I realized and the hold comes at you fast. Took 4 days to complete this move!
The second part was feeling pretty good from the beginning of the trip! Once again more technical than it appears. The drop knee eases the middle section up considerably for me at least. Biggest challenge is getting the drop knee in good. It is truly my max span, to get the distance I have to drop my pinky on the left hand for an extra couple mils. In the second vid can see I forgot and got shorted 🤦🏻♂️. Last move feels like it’s all in the accuracy. There is a 2 finger pod on the final hold and I am really thinking as if I’m jumping to a pocket. I think you could maybe call the one move in link v14? Not really sure.
A lot of the difficulty of the full line is in the texture and how that impacts the conditions you need. The holds are mostly pretty flat and pretty frictionless, the line between sweaty and glassy seems thin. My strongest feeling session I was able to do the first move 3 times at 50% or so accuracy but was so glassed out that the second sequence felt next to impossible. Cool to see the possibility and to learn the first move though, it gave me a lot more trouble than it initially felt like it would. Getting psyched to go back in the fall.
Thanks for the good sessions everyone lotta folks looking real close on this guy right now 🔥
