Sam Edson

Praise Squeezus V11ish FA What a nice boulder! Huge shout out to Mike (@hotdogclimbers ) for finding and scrubbing this and putting up the stand start Squeezum Crow. This thing took a lot of effort. Had to lock in my micro beta and execute it perfectly otherwise you get spit off.

Managed my first send of the year after almost walking away from this one. Last go best go magic! This is an old line that hasn't been repeated in over 10 years as far as I know. Some of the best rock in Hanover, especially that left hand sloper! Somewhat of an access concern here so if you're interested please DM me and respect the rules of access. As you can see by the wooden post this is right up on a building that houses a business and an apartment. The top out is basically right in front of the apartments balcony. This is Domus V8ish

Went out to the Lincoln Trail boulders in Sutton today for just a couple hours and managed a huge day! FAed a 4/5, an 8/9, and a 10ish thing! I think the Union boulder is just about fully developed now minus some lower quality possibilities. Here's Skin Remover V10ish and Honesr Abe V8ish

The Crescent Blade V10 FA Went back to Sutton and put up this awesome slabby thing on the back of the boulder with Enemy of the State on it. We weren't even sure it would go at first but it ended up working perfectly and being super high quality! The holds on the face below the crescent are so tiny. There's a spike for your left and a mini 1-2 finger cube for your right that you need to lock off on. A cool, techy, not easy start leads into the lock off. Overall another great high quality line for the boulder! Huge thanks to Ian @multiplebaddecisions for showing me around and making all this possible! Great work out there dude!

The Crescent Blade v10 - Lincoln Trail Boulders NH @sam.edsonvt with the first ascent of this technical problem. #bouldering #climbing #outdoors #firstascent

Last weekend I did To Be Continued V10. Maybe the most obscure double digit at Smuggs. On the King boulder it climbs up a prow of some nice rock on the left and horrible choss on the right. It also is a drop off with a 3 finger pocket being the final hold. I told myself I'd try hard to match the last hold but would take it if I couldn't. Well as you can see I failed the match but that was good enough for me to be happy with it. It's too bad the oriental lower start broke, the rock on the right ks choss, and the top is a drop-off. Otherwise this thing would be incredible.

Checked out a new zone near Kearsarge in Sutton NH yesterday. Huge thanks to @multiplebaddecisions for showing me around and getting me up his amazing rig Enemy of thr State V9/10. This thing was tall and scary AF. You get up onto a nice foot ledge and get a break but theres no more hand holds! You commit to a high foot and have to just work your feet up with no hands! Had to commit to run up the last bit and let out a yell! A Crazy. Also put up a fun techy V7 on the backside after that I'm calling Sic Semper Tyrannis. After that Ian and I worked out the sequence on an insanely hard slab which I almost did! Might be around V10ish. Psyched to have this area so close to home, wish it was bigger though! Still more potential for development and some more exploring to be done. Also more rock elsewhere in Sutton!

Great day out at Groton yesterday! Did Machine Vibes V9 with some crazy barefoot cam beta. Also put up 2 new (maybe?) ones on the prize boulder. Mossflower V7/8ish and Redwall Slab V4ish? The video for that one isn't great since its at night but that climb was really good and worth checking out!

Sam Edson is a staple of VT Bouldering, having developed and documented climbing in the state for over 15 years. - We're super proud to have published his comprehensive guide to Smugglers' Notch and hope it facilitates some great days out! September is prime time!! - 5% of the revenue from this guide also goes to @crag_vt to help sustain Vermont climbing <3 - Check out his guide in the link our bio!

Smugglers Notch, Vermont, authored by Sam Edson @sam.edsonvt is now verified and live! 5% of all proceeds go to @crag_vt From Sam: - "Tucked into a beautiful, forested, alpine valley, Smugglers' Notch is one of the best bouldering destinations in Northern New England. I would even go so far as to say it is one of the best summer bouldering destinations on the entire East coast. It sits right about 2100 feet of elevation and can be 10-15 degrees cooler than lower elevation areas. Local Ethics: The park is focusing on allowing some eroded areas to regrow. Most of these are along the sides of the road and parking lots. If you find sticks, branches, or logs crossed over what looks like a trail do not walk that way, they are left there as a barrier. Stick to trails or the side of the road to get around. There is a trail to nearly every single boulder in this guide. There are also some new signs pointing these areas out. Also, please make sure that if you need to park along the side of the road that you keep your tires away from any plant life. History: Smuggler's Notch gets its name from its historical use as a smuggling route between Canada and the US. During these times smuggled goods were hidden in the various caves and crevices formed by the boulders that fell off the main wall above. Some of these caves even have ice nearly year round allowing them to preserve some goods in the summer months." Read more and check out the full guide linked in our bio!

Echo V11 ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ Quite possibly the best 11 in VT, certainly for sloper lovers. Very psyched to be the first person to do this thing since it was put up in 2008. 4th ascent. The best rock I've ever felt. Amazing movement. Full value. Pure. Thanks to @lost_walnut for putting this on my radar and @nolhut for showing me it on my first day in Groton! Also shout out Mike @hotdogclimbers who I was racing for the send with! One last shout out to the send moose who graced me with their presence as I was driving out (only like half a mile to a mile from the parking). Thanks for the send send moose! People need to go do this!

Last Monday I put up one of the last lines on the Blood Moon boulder at Midgap. Calling this Solarium V10. It's basically an SMS sit start. Great day working on it with @cornnnnns and @sam.climbs.123 who both got close on it!