I spent the last week in the beautiful Val Bavona. The weather was gorgeous and warm. The vegetation was starting to bloom, and there was a real spring feeling. The temperatures were just right for bouldering. You had to make the most of the times when the boulders were in the shade. A lot came together for me this week. My mindset was perfect, and my shape was good too. Plus, I had a great crew, which made it all even better.
Ticklist:
"Primitivo" (8c)
"Space Cadet" (8b+) 🎥
"Open your eyes" (8b+)
"Sassi Diamanti" (8a+)
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"Primitivo" (8c)
Five years ago I did the stand start of Primitivo. After that, I tried the lower start a bit, but I had no chance. In the meantime, the boulder had faded somewhat from my mind. This year I thought I'd give it another go. The first three sessions were very short. I only attempted the first two moves and tried to get my body used to the strain. The sessions barely lasted an hour. Two sessions later, I managed the first two moves together for the first time, and luckily, I was able to climb the boulder straight through.
Its nice to see the process over the years.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #bouldering #climb #adventuretime
Arzak (8b+)
A really sick boulder in the valley of Murg, opened by @fred_nicole
The climb is quite persistent with the crux move at the very end. All the moves need to be executed well to remain the power for the crux move.
Really happy to send it today.
Thanks for the support and the good vibes.
Video by @____alois____
##rockclimbing #climbinglife #bouldering #climb #adventuretime
Entlingen (8b+)
When we arrived in the Murg valley today, all the boulders were wet, so hopes of actually being able to climb were slim. However, Entlingen dried quickly in the sun, and so I was able to give it a session. Fully motivated and without any expectations, I managed to climb the boulder.
Thanks to @jujou_climbs for the conditions and the support
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Big paw (8b+/c)
I am really proud about this one. It was on my mind for a few years now. 3 years ago I tried for the first time but I couldn't really do any moves back then. This year I feel strong and I gave it another chance. I felt quite comfortable on the first few moves but the big move to the pocket felt hard.
Luckily I didn't fall after I stuck this move for the first time from the ground.
I think the boulder suits my style quite well but I still strugglet on it. Felt definitely hard for 8b+ so more 8b+/c for me.
Thanks for the support @juju_climb and @_.lauramarti._
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The last two weeks of my Rocklands trip I couldn't really try my projects due to bad skin.
So I used the time to look for first ascents. I invested a lot of time in looking for boulders and then also in building landings.
Overall, I found two really nice lines, which are definitely close to my limit.
I am very motivated to train for these lines and hopefully climb them on my next trip to the Rocklands.
First project
I found this big wall where i thought that there are for sure more than one line. But for me it semed that this is the only possible way up there.
The boulder starts with a super hard dyno to a crimp. I think the dyno is maybe 8b itself. After that there is still a spicy lock off to a sloper.
I think maybe 8b+ the whole climb. I did the lock of out of the rope but couldn't do the dyno yet. Still far away but i am psyched to try again
Second project
This line only consists of three moves but all of them are very hard. I think its a 7c+ move into an 8a+ move into a 8a deadpoint. Overall maybe 8c. I almost sticked the first move and managed to stick the third move. On the second move i still feel quite far away but i think its possible for me. On this one i am even more psyched to train for.
Next trip i will probabely focus on these two climbs. Would be amazing to do both of them.
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"G-Master" (8b+)
My trip to rocklands is going well and I am enjoying every moment so far. Nice weather, nice boulders and a lot of fun with an awesome crew!
Really happy about the send of "G-Master" yesterday. Never expected to send this climb in just one session. Sometimes everything just comes together.
Still two more weeks to go. We'll see what time brings.
Thanks to @zenscha for the support and the video
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Airstar (8b)
So happy to be back in Rocklands!
This one was high on my list for this trip.
Feels so good sticking these big moves.
Video by @natontheblocs
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"Deal with the devil" (8b)
This boulder is located on the historical "Teufelsstein" in Göschenen. It climbs up this beautiful prow on sharp crimps with a weird pinch. Sadly the boulder never got that much attention although its a real kingline.
Props to @nalle_hukkataival and @giuliano_cameroni for opening this boulder
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