A finished summery knit, perfect for the :checks weather: hail and thunderstorm watches we are currently having? Anyway this is the #joan_shirt by o.malica available on ravelry, knit in 50/50 wool/cotton fingering weight yarn from @dharmatradingco . Please do not notice the row of circles perfectly centered on my elbow in this pictures that is 2 courses too short. Blocking was really really magical with this one, as I fully thought I would have to add significantly more length to the sleeves before I blocked it! I knit one size down from recommended because I think this will be a fantastic layering piece beneath sleeveless dresses like the #closetcorepauline Worn here with my new distressed jeans I promise I am going to bleach this weekend.
#handmadewardrobe #iknitmyownclothes #knitaddict #diyfashion #diydenim #lovetoknit #millennialsewing #msmakes
I made some raw selvedge jeans! I'm excited to share more details about the fit, construction, and fabric of these, but just wanted to share some big picture stuff about the style first! Which do you want to hear about next?
If you're not familiar, selvedge jeans are a style of jeans made with heritage denim, woven on vintage shuttle looms. If you're familiar with hand weaving at all, it works in the same way as shuttle looms, creating a completely enclosed selvedge at the edges of the fabric. The process is slow and so is not done much commercially, except to create fabric like this (and for cool technical applications, like fire hoses!) The looms are very narrow so fabric typically comes in under 30" wide. The style of selvedge denim utilizes the selvedge of the fabric for the outer seam of the jeans, meaning as much of that seam as possible is perfectly straight, and all shaping to taper the leg comes from the inseam. The outer seam is busted and, of course, you've got to cuff your jeans to show off the selvedge!
On top of the heritage fabric and unique cut, denim like this is often sewn up in the 'raw' or loomstate, where the sizing is still on the fabric. Sizing is a starch applied to warp yarns to protect them during the weaving process, and because it's water soluble it will wash out in any dyeing and finishing processes. Denim, being yarn dyed, doesn't necessarily have to go though any finishing processes, although it typically does to improve the hand of the fabric and pre-shrink and pre-skew it. Sewing up a pair of 'raw denim' jeans means they're extra stiff, but this is what helps create the look - as I wear these jeans, the creases that form will be extra sharp and start to wear and abrade more than normal, with the goal being to get high contrast fades custom fit to my body! It also means that washing is going to significantly change the jeans, and so the goal is to go as long as possible without washing - and then wash carefully once you do.
#isewmyownclothes #lovetosew #diyfashion #diydenim #rawdenim #selvedgedenim #handmadewardrobe #sewersofinstagram #sewcialists #millennialsewing #msmakes #ncsews
Bodice details: the base structure of the bodice is a surplice deep v with princess seams for shaping. It's supported internally with a layer of cotton underlining and boning. The base is purple satin, sequins, and purple silk organza. On top of the base there are two layers of tulle pleated - one in purple, and one in pink. I cut large squares which @msrebeccamakes draped and pleated onto me while I was wearing the bodice, I then stitched them in place. When she went to pleat the last layer on the back we both loved the cape-like visual of the tulle squares hanging so much, we left it like that! Tucked between the layers in the front are some border pieces from my couture lace I bought in Florence, and more applique pieces of lace are stitched around the waist. The sequins and 3d flowers of this lace are so pretty, and the sequins have a mirror-like finish in flash photography! So much hand stitching went into this bodice I couldn't even begin to give an accurate count of hours.
📸 @jdixphoto
#handmadeweddingdress #msjenncouture👰🏻 #diyweddingdress #diyfashion #handmadewardrobe #isewmyownclothes #lovetosew #couturesewingtechniques #millennialsewing #msmakes #ncsews
My secret?
I used to be a magic loop hater.
It's ok if you don't understand a technique, even the first several times you try it. At first I found magic loop hard to understand, and I was working with tools that were making it harder.
Finding better needles that worked for me, as well as seeing traveling loop demonstrated are two things that made magic loop 'click' for me. The ability to work things two at a time sealed the deal!
I utilize both magic loop and traveling loop in my knitting, and they each can work better for different applications. But I see a lot of people say they always use one over the other, and I think it's important to understand the pros and cons.
Remember: traveling loop is limited by the size of your needle tips, but you need a longer cable for magic loop.
This is the second time I've tried to make this video, the first time Instagram dirty deleted it and I had to wait for another suitable project to show the differences. But on that other project, I switched between traveling loop and magic loop on the middle of a sleeve and found I had a SIGNIFICANT gauge difference between the two methods. My gauge was tighter with magic loop, because I was able to keep the stitches much closer together. Something to consider!
I sewed something 😱
This is the @daughterjudypatterns Henry Skirt #djhenry in some gorgeous deadstock Jacob Cohën plain weave denim from @califabrics . This fabric is gorgeous - heavy, slubby, and tightly constructed. I opted for a metal snap for the skirt closure, and also bound all the edges instead of overlocking with rayon seam binding for a high end finish. This was actually a very quick sew, from cutting the fabric to sewing the button hole in a single weekend, and I could have done it in a day if I hadn't spent so much time the first day cleaning off my cutting table 🙊
Worn here with my new #checkerplatetee in KFO Pure Silk.
I may not be done with this skirt yet. I am considering making the waist more adjustable and also throwing it in a washdown for the denim... We will see if I prefer it dark or want it to lighten up a bit. I will have a ton of opportunities to wear it before then.
I dyed my #checkerplatetee by @lilykatemakes ! I knit it in @knittingforolive pure silk in the color powder, which came much more warm toned than I was expecting from the online posting (I'm so glad they're including that information now!) That warm toned beige wasn't the most flattering on me so I decided to knit it up and dye it after so that everything would be one even shade. I tried a couple different dye options from @dharmatradingco and wound up deciding to just subtly correct the color with a blue tint to turn it to a cooler shade. Very happy with how it turned out!
It just needed a little adjustment!
I dipped my #checkerplatetee by @lilykatemakes , which I knit in @knittingforolive Pure Silk in Powder, in a tiiiny bit of blue dye to cool it down and make the color work better for me!
What yarns do you like for summer?
My favorites are:
5. @berrocoyarn Modern Linen (shown in Sabai top)
4. @knittingforolive Pure Silk (shown in Checker Plate Tee (worn) and Barbroe Blouse)
3. @dererumnatura Antigone
2. @wool2dye4 Silk Sock 50/50 (shown in 2 Sunshine Tees and an Umbria Summer top (worn in intro), colors all dyed by @through.the.wardrobe.yarnco )
1. Knitting for Olive Cotton Merino (shown in self drafted lace top)
