@marine_thevenet_ latest favourite Moonboard benchmarks 🌙
• Konshu - 7B+/V8 - Moonboard 2019
« Love the span on the second move ; and then the sweet swing to a good hold »
• Piccole Right - 7C+/V10 - Moonboard 2016
« Crimpy and shouldery - nothing to add, pure Moonboard style »
• Death Wish - 7C/V9 - Moonboard 2024
« Such a fun sequence ; and set by Dana Rader, which makes it even better »
• Burn the Sage - 7C/V9 - Moonboard 2024
« Love when you have to work a hold in multiple positions - twist the left hand to push even higher on the heel »
• Flipped Scrypt - 7B+/V8 - Moonboard 2019
« Need to be focused and precise, including on the last move »
*Bonus* : When Deez - 7C+/V10 - Moonboard 2024
“Not on my favourite list because I matched // I was too weak for the original beta. But that first move tho!”
#moonboard2016 #moonboard2019 #moonboard2024 #moonboardbenchmark #moonboard
The Moon Eclipse pant is a gorgeous, heavy 100% cotton pant. Which makes them breathable, durable and soft to the touch. The loose fit, with an elasticated waist and draw string, makes them a versatile pant for both men and women alike - here are Moon athletes @francesbensley and @eesh_kebab in theirs. Frances wears size S for a relaxed fit.
Available on the Moon website 👌
Yesterday I was able to send 🦈 Baby Shark 🦈 8c (doo doo doo doo doo doo, ahhhhh stop it!). Maybe my new favourite lowball of all time. Perfect compression climbing on smooth 'marble like' edges with the most slippery footholds, and of course some heel hook magic 😉 Located at the most chill 'beach-like' setting 🏖️. Unique in Ticino!
Shout-out to Ticino 🐐 and FA @giuliano_cameroni for coming over and providing vibes and all the micro beta on my first session. Helped a lot man 👊🏻
#swiss #ticino #beach #bouldering #stupidsong
SALE! SALE! SALE!
Moon will be at The Climbing Works for the CWIF this Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd March - we will selling tons of end of line stuff. So come and see us in the Sponsors Hub in Unit E and grab a bargain!
See you there 💪
The Journey 9a+
10th lap on this one. First redpoint of the season, and well into the upper crux of The Journey 9b above.
Of all the 9a+ routes I’ve climbed, this one is the hardest and the hardest to repeat. It feels easy in sections and on my first ever session I did it with one hang and the next I made it to the last few moves but still a battle to finish off.
took me a month of sitting through the rain to repeat it last year.
History felt like it was repeating itself and it’s been wet for the last 10 days.
I stayed strong on the board, had a couple of days doing links on the dry sections, but not so much that it used up mental energy, and this year I stayed clear of the beer.
It can be pretty demoralising when the weather is bad, but as soon as I switch my mindset and see it as part of the game it feels easier to deal with.
Dealing with rain, cuts and injuries, trips, or even years where you climb nothing is just as much a part of climbing hard as the training in the gym.
But the training in the gym hasn’t gone amiss either. Before, I was never able to work out the difference between when I climbed the first pitch and when I didn’t, subtle pacing and conditions, mostly I’d numb out but this year I’m just stronger and it doesn’t matter.
My first trip outside of Font or the UK since 2019 and my sole focus was to try Bugeleisen. I went in 2017 and after 4 sessions and 3 split tips I realised I just wasn’t good enough. Fast forward 9 years and some friends were heading to Maltatal. It felt like the perfect opportunity for me to try again. I think I have improved as a climber in this time; I’m definitely better at crimping and maintaining tension (essential skills for Bugel), and I’m also stronger mentally. To cut a long story short Bugel was wet for most of my trip and from my brief foray on it again I realised I’m still not strong enough. However I do think I could be strong enough. Bugel is the most perfect project level boulder that I have ever tried. I can do all the moves, some consistently and some not, but getting every hold precisely enough to do the next move would require improvement on my behalf.
If it were in the UK I’d have done it, or at least know I could do it but the logistics of it being in Austria and how fickle conditions are really ups the anti. I’d definitely like to return, the challenge level is just too enticing not to!
Climbing picture is Marmelade auf der Schulter 8A (moser variant but finishing direct rather than slinking off to the right). Then some old school measuring for potential replica building. Cheers @eliotstephens for the photos.
@moonclimbing@unparallelup@darkventures
