Simon Messner

On 15. July @martin_sieberer and I reached the summit of unclimbed Yernamandu Kangri (~7.180m) in the Masherbrum Range, Karakorum 😎😃 Still in Pakistan and on the way back, more infos will follow soon! • • @salewa 🙌 @eliteclimb @scarpa_at @gloryfy_unbreakable @lyofood @discoverkarakoram • • • #karakoram #discoverkarakoram #alpineice #alpinism #alpinestyle #mountains #mountaineering #puremountain #friendship #adventure #snow #ice #x-dry #goodtimes #hardwork #nowrelax #thinair

@martin_sieberer and I did it! We repeated the legendary "Bonatti-Route" on the North Face of the Matterhorn in one day from Zermatt to the summit (meaning around 3.000 vertical meters on this day). For both of us a long-cherished dream came true 😃👍 ...and so it went: We took the train from Täsch to Zermatt at 4 o'clock in the morning and immediately started the long approach to the Matterhorn which we reached at around 09.15 (usally way too late to start climbing such a mountain!) but as conditions seemed ok, we continued (both of us solo to safe time) until we reached the so called "Angel Traverse". Here the terrain became more complex and we decided to rope up. We were good in time but as temperatures were low, the liquid in our bottles was frozen solit - so we couldn't drink a single sip during the whole climb making us very tired over time 😴 Our calves burned like hell as we climbed higher and higher, over black and very hard alpine ice and passages of fragile rock, but we had no time to loose... as we found no spot for a bivy, there was just one possibility for us: keep going! When we reached the "ice fall" of the upper part of the classic North Face (here both routes come together), night set in. In the spotlight of our headlamps we continued (meanwhile our thirst was almost unbearable!) but in the dark we missed the original exit to the Zmutt-ridge forcing us to climb straight to the summit which we reached shortly before midnight. That was the point when when Martin's headlamp went off making the descent to the Solvay-bivy a next and unforgottable adventure... it was after 02.00 o'clock in the morning when we finally reached this little "Life raft". As every bed was occupied by other climbers we melted some snow in front of the hut (the first liquid after so many hours felt like heaven!!) before we tried to rest a little bit on the floor inside the hut... What remains is a huge respect to Walter Bonatti who opened this fantastic route in 1965 solo and in winter over several days - a mental challenge beyond compare! @salewa @eliteclimb #matterhorn #northface #walterbonatti #alpinism #climb #cervino #zermatt #schweiz #adventuretime #legend #swiss

Summit of Toshe III, Bunar Valley, Pakistan. #salewa #firstascent #messnermountainmovie #alpinism #mountaineering

we proudly present 🎙️ #podcastlineup Der Bergwelten Podcast „Höhen und Tiefen“ mit dem Format „Anruf bei Simon Messner“ live bei PODCAST AM BERG ⛰️ Auf der Bühne sprechen Alpinist @messner_simon und @klaus_haselboeck aus der Bergwelten Chefredaktion über die Faszination unbestiegener Gipfel, die Verantwortung als Vater sowie die Frage nach Risiko, Sicherheit und dem eigenen Zugang zu den Bergen. 📸 Fotocredits: Ramona Waldner @ramonawaldnerphoto & ServusTV/Timeline Production

Dear friends, Over the past period, many things have changed in my life — as a mountaineer, as a @Salewa athlete, and, most importantly, as a human being. Becoming a farmer and running a traditional mountain farm in South Tyrol together with my wife Anna was the first major challenge (and it still is!). Finding time away from work has become almost impossible, as our animals don’t know concepts like holidays or weekends. Everything on the farm must keep running, day after day. Naturally, climbing gradually became a rarity. Then — exactly one year ago — a truly mind-blowing change happened when our daughter Valentina was born. What a joy! There is nothing more fulfilling than becoming a parent and watching a child grow up. But somehow, almost magically, time for climbing completely disappeared (all parents out there know what I mean 😉). And then came the day that changed everything. In August this year, only a few days before our expedition to Pakistan, I enjoyed one last training session with my buddy Philipp at our local climbing crag — just minutes from where I live. I would literally say I know every single hold on every route there. But that didn’t prevent my right foot from slipping off a remarkably big foothold, suddenly placing too much force on my left shoulder, which dislocated as a result. Not wanting to cancel the long-planned and deeply desired expedition to Pakistan, I had no choice but to set off with a left shoulder that was far from functioning properly — definitely not ideal conditions for an alpine-style ascent of a very remote mountain. But mishaps always happen when you least expect them… After returning from our adventure in the Karakoram, the first thing I did was visit a doctor. Unfortunately, there was no other option than surgery, which took place in Innsbruck at the beginning of December. The injuries turned out to be more serious than expected: an almost completely torn biceps tendon, splintered bone fragments, and detached cartilage — requiring extensive surgery. TEXT WILL BE CONTINUED IN THE COMMENT SECTION...

Im T-Shirt auf einem 7.000er? 🏔️⁠ ⁠ Für @messner_simon ist klar: Der Klimawandel ist real. Er hat erlebt, wie sich Wetter- und Naturabläufe verändern, wie das gewohnte System ins Wanken gerät. ⁠ ⁠ Auf seinem Bergbauernhof spürt er die Folgen direkt – Abhängigkeit vom Schmelzwasser der Gletscher und die damit verbundene Wasserknappheit machen ihn besonders nachdenklich.⁠ ⁠ __ ⛰ __⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 📸 © Archiv Simon Messner⁠ ⁠ ⁠ #wanderdoerfer #magiedesgehens #inspirationwandern #simonmessner #ALPIN #lebenfürdieberge

Die Natur lernt man erst kennen, wenn man jeden Tag mit ihr lebt.⁠ ⁠ Für @messner_simon wurde das Bauer-Sein zum Schlüssel, um die Natur in all ihren Facetten zu verstehen. Und genau darin steckt für ihn der größte Wert: Die Natur als Quelle zum Lernen.⁠ ⁠ __ ⛰ __⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 📸 © Archiv Simon Messner⁠ ⁠ ⁠ #wanderdoerfer #magiedesgehens #inspirationwandern #simonmessner

Traditioneller Alpinismus – eine 270 Jahre alte Idee, die weit mehr ist als das Bezwingen schwieriger Routen.⁠ ⁠ Für @messner_simon steckt der wahre Wert in den Erfahrungen, die man nur draußen in der Natur macht – Erlebnisse, die in unserer abgesicherten Welt sonst kaum möglich sind.⁠ ⁠ Was können wir Wanderer davon lernen? Es geht nicht nur um das Ziel, sondern um das, was man unterwegs erlebt und lernt.⁠ ⁠ __ ⛰ __⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 📸 © Archiv Simon Messner⁠ / @storytellerlabs ⁠ ⁠ #wanderdoerfer #magiedesgehens #inspirationwandern #simonmessner #ALPIN #lebenfürdieberge

Nicht jeder Gipfel braucht eine Gondel.⁠ ⁠ Für @messner_simon liegt der wahre Wert der Berge darin, sie aus eigener Kraft zu erreichen.⁠ Wer 1 bis 2 Stunden zu Fuß unterwegs ist, erlebt die Landschaft intensiver – und tut dabei nicht nur der Natur, sondern auch sich selbst etwas Gutes.⁠ ⁠ __ ⛰ __⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 📸 © Archiv Simon Messner⁠ / @storytellerlabs ⁠ ⁠ #wanderdoerfer #magiedesgehens #inspirationwandern #simonmessner

Die Berge urteilen nicht – sie sind einfach da.⁠ ⁠ Für @messner_simon waren die Berge schon von klein auf ein mystischer Ort, voller Stille – ein Ort, an dem man zu sich selbst finden kann.⁠ ⁠⁠ __ ⛰ __⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ 📸 © Archiv Simon Messner⁠ ⁠ #wanderdoerfer #magiedesgehens #inspirationwandern #simonmessner #ALPIN #lebenfürdieberge

Base camp life - a few impressions from Pakistan 2025 • • @salewa @samaya_equipment @eliteclimb • @martin_sieberer 🙌 📸 @timeline_production • • #pakistan #kashmir #expedition #2025 #explore #puremountain #alpinism #adventure #karakoram #wildmountains #goodcompany #basecamp #life

Several days have passed since @martin_sieberer and I have returned from our expedition to the remote Saltoro Valley in Pakistan. Althrough we had a really good time together with the team of @timeline_production exploring the area and it's many unclimbed peaks (!) we did not reach a single summit. The summer in Pakistan was extremely hot and the late monsoon brought unexpected snowfall from adjacent India which at the end thwarted our only attempt to reach the summit of Chumik Kangri (a very beautiful mountain located on the border between India and Pakistan, 6.754m). At first I was somehow disappointed and I struggled with the decision to turn around. I had the feeling that we should have waited in BC, hoping for better weather, to then make a second attempt. But after long, exhausting and risky days on the mountain our motivation was simply gone, so we decided to reject the idea of a renewed ascent. Now, back at home with my family and friends, I am no longer sad about our decision to quit. We were able to see and explore an area that was closed to expeditions for over 40 years. We saw incredibly many beautiful and mostly unclimbed mountains and at least we reached the upper glacier of Chumik Kangri. But by far the most important thing is: we all returned safe and sound. With many plans and ideas for future climbs in the area... • • @salewa #puremountain @eliteclimb @samaya_equipment @gloryfy_unbreakable @scarpa_at @karim_discover 🗻 • • 📸 Pics 1 & 5: @timeline_production 🙌 • • #mountaineering #alpinism #karakoram #pakistan #gilgitbaltistan #explore #puremountain #expedition #saltoro #siachen #alpinestyle #mountains #of #karakorum #mountainviews