@SceneStyled : The first garment Hamza Glamouss and Valentin Nicot made together was a contradiction: a bolero squared like armour stitched onto a backless dress that poured to the floor. That clash of toughness and liquidity still defines their Paris-based studio, KHOL. Named for the black pigment Glamouss grew up seeing in Morocco, khol as both protection and seduction, the label speaks a language the designers call “tough tailored poetry.” Nicot, a former painter, brings a sculptor’s discipline to their silhouettes, while Glamouss pulls from ritual and intimacy, the everyday gesture of khol traced around the eye.
Their latest collection, Attachment Theories, borrows from psychology to frame clothing as a negotiation of closeness and distance. Sharp jackets undone by silk, flowers engulfing lapels — every piece sits in tension, strength pressed against fragility. “We wanted that duality, without either side winning,” Nicot explains. Craft anchors the studio: tailoring gives emotion its body, shoots are treated as final chapters where gesture, movement, even silence must preserve the poetry of the piece.
KHOL’s references are purposeful — artists, icons like Marlene Dietrich, figures who embodied ambiguity. The aim is revelation: clothes that amplify what is already present. In Rabat, their work is read as cultural continuity; in Paris, as precision. Craft, for them, is the core language. “We start with emotion,” Glamouss says. “Tailoring gives it a body.”
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đź–ŠMariam Elmiesiry