Essential to Edomae sushi is akasu, red vinegar made from the lees (sake kasu) leftover from sake production. Akasu dates back to 1804 when Matazaemon Nakano, a sake brewer and founder of Mizkan (now the world’s largest rice vinegar producer), sampled “hayazushi” or “fast-sushi” in Edo. He realized his lees-based vinegar could enhance the taste and offer an economical alternative to pure rice vinegar. Akasu became a hit and was later adopted by Yohei Hanaya, creator of nigirizushi, cementing its place in sushi history. Today, Edomae sushi chefs express their philosophy through their vinegar mix or "shari-su” (酢合わせ), constantly making minute adjustments to create harmony with seasonal variations in rice and tane (topping).
Iio Jozo, a brewery in Miyazu, Kyoto, produces what is considered to be Japan’s most artisanal vinegar. Unlike other brewers who age purchased sake lees for about 3 years, Iio Jozo brews sake from their own organically grown, pesticide-free rice, and then ages the lees for 15 years to make their akasu. This prolonged ageing and “domaine-only” philosophy which ensures quality and echews shortcuts like adding alcohol or brewer’s vinegar, results in a deeply savory and naturally sweet product with mellow acidity. At @sushi_nishinokaze Chef Gee’s intention is to express the innate sweetness of naturally grown rice, and with the help of Iio Jozo’s vinegar, zero sugar is ever added to the sushi rice. Iio Jozo’s Akasu Premium is not available to the public and the yearly production is allocated to around 150 Edomae sushi restaurants in Japan and a select few abroad. We hope to be able to live up to this privilege. (Texte en français dans les commentaires).
For nearly 2,000 years, rice was a luxury food item reserved for the wealthy ruling class. It has been used as currency and has played a significant role in religion and ritual worship. Entire societies have been built around rice, and its importance continues to this day, with 3.5 billion people relying on rice as a staple food. The industrialization of rice, driven by the introduction of pesticides and chemical fertilizers from the West in the early 20th century, has been crucial for food security and the survival of our species.
Currently, 1.5 million hectares of land in Japan are dedicated to rice cultivation. Of this, only 450 hectares (0.03%) are farmed naturally, using traditional methods without chemical pesticides or fertilizers. For certain older, special rice cultivars, using fertilizers causes the plants to grow too quickly and collapse, making harvesting difficult—a rare case where human greed is punished.
From a taste perspective, naturally grown rice, with its deeper roots, is more delicious and contains more nutrients. For our shari (sushi rice), we use naturally grown « Omi » rice from Shiga Prefecture, sourced directly from a farmer who has been practicing natural and regenerative methods for nearly 30 years. Our rice is also available for purchase so you can enjoy it at home. In many ways, there is no greater luxury than eating a bowl of naturally grown rice. It reminds us of the fleeting beauty of nature, traditional practices, and the importance of maintaining a connection to our past. #noricenolife (Texte en français dans les commentaires).
The most iconic crab in southern China has to be the Red Flower or Crucifix Crab 紅花蟹. With retail prices of over 1000/kg HKD it is definitely pound for pound the most expensive crab in Hong Kong. A classic way to serve is steamed with egg white shaoxing custard but the most famous has to be Chiu Chow chilled style. According to Chiu Chow people the best way to taste seafood is to enjoy it chilled to taste its natural sweetness.
In order to prepare this first a suitable crab with dense meat must be picked (not a 水蟹 or water crab meaning its shells are packed with water rather than meat) and then it must be dispatched in a ice slurry. This is an important step because it has to be dead when steamed or else it would drop its limbs which would cause a loss of juices. Also difficult because the crab has such an awkward shape. After the crab is chilled and then served at room temperature. It is critical that the steaming juices remain in the crab so that all flavor and sweetness is concentrated in the meat. Classically there is always a vinegar dip with garlic, ginger and chili which enhances the sweetness even more. Last month while @jd.514 and @nessvaughan were in HK for their first time I prepared a massive 1.35kg 2斤4 crab for them and it was absolutely spectacular.
Awamori sesh at Oni no Ude. Awamori is Japan’s oldest distilled spirit with a 600-year history originating in the 15th-century Ryukyu Kingdom. Introduced from Siam (Thailand), it is produced using Thai indica long grain rice and black koji mold. Typically 30–43% ABV, it is aged, sometimes in clay pots to create kusu (aged liquor). It is a staple of Okinawan culture with over 45+ distilleries in the prefecture alone. Something about sipping on local liquor in endgame ceramics listening to Okinawan folk music hits unbelievable different. The owner was kind enough to open up for us early on our last day. Apparently the first 2 bottles were Seisho’s favorite awamori. Need to stock up next trip!
Coconut crab is a fully terrestrial species of giant hermit crab also known as the robber crab or palm thief. It is the largest terrestrial arthropod weighing up to 4.1 kg (9 lb). Their diet primarily consists of fruits, nuts, seeds but will also feed on baby turtles and scavenging. The coconut crab can take a coconut from the ground and cut it to a husk nut, take it with its claw, climb up a tree 10 m high and drop the husk nut, to access the coconut flesh inside. They often descend from the trees by falling, and can survive a fall of at least 4m unhurt.
Really wanted to try it because last trip was solo. They are typically in season during the summer. So yeah it was pretty bad, lots of meat but a strange mealy texture and not sweet at all. The roe was pretty weird and bitter too. Also got the classic Green Turban shell sashimi and sautéed with butter and garlic. Have to try once I guess 😂
Bacar alum Eriko Tamaki opened Tamuzza in Wakasa, Naha in summer 2025, a small Italian counter and one woman kitchen cooking historic dishes that extend the approach established at Bacar/Ardor: regional coastal Italian cuisine expressed through Okinawan ingredients. Exceptional cooking in an intimate setting: so rare!
2024 Okinawan bluefin tuna bottarga on brioche with tankan jam and butter.
Ligurian cappon magro (Okinawan Kuruma ebi, sēika (diamondback squid), octopus, and crunchy vegetables).
Okinawan miibai ミーバイ: a small grouper (chocolate hind/Cephalopholis boenak) in umido.
Eriko signature yakōgai (turban shell) pesto alla Genovese: white meat raw and dark meat stewed for eight hours.
Charcoal grilled Okinawan kuroge wagyu outside skirt and heart.
Add-on pastas: carne mista paccheri and spaghettini del poverello.
