@kikokostadinov SS26 Paris Fashion Week by
@laura_deanna_fanning at Palais de Tokyo
Shownotes [Except]
“It has been a good time to look inwards. When we do, we see elegant women, headstrong women, expectant women, and playful women who are always divining the future from the sands of the past. We want our women free to be radical in their clothes, unchained from the world's demands.
This season, it is not just the clothes we made that matter, but how we made them. We aim to strip away artifice and expectation, returning to the practices that defined our beginnings in fashion: engaging in a joyful exploration of material, composition, proportion, and construction.
[…]
The American artist Christina Ramberg, whose paintings of hulking female bodies with stiff brassieres, jagged corsetry, and backcombed bangs we first saw in Berlin, provides deep inspiration. Our translation of Christina's structural and fetishistic bodies is not literal but spiritual: how can we embolden and radicalize the shape of the female form? Redefining femininity by pushing colour and beauty beyond tradition motivates us to cut new shapes, including shelf-like bustiers with circular suspensions, dramatic shoulders, peplums, and sculpted hips. With generous permission from the Christina Ramberg Estate, two of the artist's works are used in collateral material for this presentation.
The warm, indulgent hues and insouciant spirit of 1970s cinema inspire the clash of colours and textures throughout the collection. We particularly drew from Lina Wertmüller's The Seduction of Mimi (1972). In her headstrong protagonists, we found parallels to our women and our lives, where passion, tragedy, and beauty coexist. Cinched, shawl-collar skirt suiting in retro colourways, sleek leather jackets in black and brown, and utility sets with contrast trim all echo the refined eclecticism of Italian cinema.
Even in the most uncertain times, we strive to find a silver lining: a freedom of body and mind.”