@tourtewaipounamu Day 7 continued.
I climb up the hilariously steep hill out of Lawrence and decide to have a nap as all competitive spirit has left me. Damn those ditches are comfy. Back on the bike and everything is a blur in the darkness. After a few hours I need another nap and I hear Peg passing me but I don’t care at this stage. I set the timer for another 45 mins and take out my sleeping bag.
After Clinton and before Slopedown Road I check the tracker to see how far ahead Peg is but I can’t find her dot only to realise that she’s behind me. Oh shit, it’s back on! 70km to go and suddenly I’m switched on again. Sleep monsters are creeping in though and I’m having to take a few 1 min dirt naps which works surprisingly well.
Finally I make it to Curio Bay and after an update from Pete I know that I now got a big enough gap and I start to relax a bit. Seeing people out cheering as I pass the ICU feels is such a treat although the final hill towards Slope Point is toture.
Reaching the signpost is just fantastic and quite emotional although being Scandinavian, and therefore incapable of showing emotion, I’m not sure how well it showed.
After handing my bike over to Mojo I could barely walk, funny how that works. My body was truly clocking out but that’s okay as there was nothing left to do.
It’s been said before but it’s nonetheless true: our bodies are capable of pretty wild things when we try. Arriving at the ICU was absolutely heavenly and I’m so grateful that I got to be part of it. I sound like I broken record but it was a seriously special time so thanks again to @brianinpics everyone involved.
Thanks to Pete for picking up 3 food craving tolders from Slope Point. We’ve entered the @transbalkanrace as a team and the deal was that we wouldn’t book flight tickets untill after TTW in case I had a shit time and never wanted to ride my bike again. Well guess who’s booked tickets! The End.
📸 @antonmcgeachen
Pic 3 @whatswrongwithpaez
Tour Te Waipounamu Day 7: Wire Yards Hut to Slope Point featuring dirt naps.
Hunt mode is on so it’s a 90min sleep and I wake up shaking quite a bit but nothing a few pieces of buttered banana bread can’t fix. It’s a cold and rocky decent down the Hawkduns and the Ida Valley is covered in a wet fog. I’m wearing all my layers and I’m soaked. Finally, just before the climb towards Pool Burn dam the suns breaks through the clouds.
While I’m having a complete gear explosion next to the road, getting out of all my layers, I see the Red Wagon with Anton and Mojo come zooming up the road.
Peg catches up to me on the climb which makes me realise that I must have passed her too. She’s pedaling super strong and after a quick chat she disappears into the distance and I’m expecting to never see her again.
The Serpentine area is somewhat familiar territory having ridden there during last years @theresetbrevet brevet although that was all during the night and funnily enough it’s a lot easier navigating the deep 4x4 ruts in daylight. I’m delighted to bump into Kath Kelly and mate and they confirm that Peg has bees in her bonnet. I’m starting to get pretty sleepy but a small crash wakes me up.
Before entering the Lammerlaws I have a quick nap in the shade but wake up before my alarm with a nosebleed that’s soaked through my backpack acting as a pillow.
I’ve heard tales of the Lammerlaws, and most haven’t been kind, so I’m surprised when it’s nice and dry although a tad windy. Morals are now high as I envision a full on raid of the Night and Day in Lawrence.
I’m then surprised to come across Peg with her bike upside down. She too has been neglecting a rear brake pad change.
“Is that all?” Asks the cashier in Lawrence and I’m not sure how I’d ever be able to buy much more. I gather my bounty at a picnic table while stuffing myself and make the huge mistake of looking at my phone and seeing pictures of the finishers gathered at the Slope Point ICU, I suddenly really want to be there. Heads up to any future TTW riders, it’s way, way further from Lawrence to Slope Point than it looks.
📸 @antonmcgeachen
Tour Te Waipounamu Day 6: Lake Pukaki to Wire Yards Hut.
The bumpy Tekapo River road is no problem on my bouncy bike but what is a problem is the fact that my rear brake pads has obviously left the party so I stop at Haldon Campsite to change them. Yep, they’re fully down to the metal but I’m struggling to push the pistons back in and YouTube is not being very helpful with minimal signal. After consulting Pete and way too much time wasted I decide to ride with no brake pads and therefore no rear brake. If Adam can do it down the Dampier and can surely manage from here to Slope Point.
At Black Forest Station I spot some adventurous looking motor bikers and wave them down and sure enough one of them manages to push the pistons back in no worries.
Black Forest has no forest and it’s getting rather hot which doesn’t help the smell of decomposing dead wallabies littered along the road. What is great, is the Otamatata shop On the Spot. It’s an absolute smorgasbord of sandwiches and baked goods and I’m having all of them. Not sure where to put them all plus the many liters of Coke and chocolate milk.
Quick chat to Bryce and at this point I’m aware of Peg being about 6hours ahead of me. Untill now I’ve just been doing my own thing focusing on making it through the ride well and without major fuckups. Of course this information can’t help but spark my competitiveness but on the other hand I’m also slightly worried about the prospect of having to fully burry myself and what that entails.
Climbing up the Hawkduns in golden hour and I have one of those magic moments that happens in long distance efforts where nothing hurts and you’re just on a high. They don’t last long but they are always pretty special to think back on.
Knowing there’s a few people behind me I ride past Ida Railway hut wanting a quiet sleep so I opt for the much more basic Wire Yards Hut.
📸 @antonmcgeachen (no pictures from today so this is from the next morning)
Tour Te Waipounamu Day 5. Peel Forest to Pine Tree Bivy a few km before Lake Pukaki.
Early doors up the Rangitata had me hoping that I’d beat the forecasted headwind. Not the case and it’s a bit of a grind to say the least. Just as I’m getting a bit over it I see Big Mouth, Bryce and Layton ready to set off from their luxurious concrete bivy spot. Perfect timing! Mood changes instantly but I’m still slightly concerned about the wind heading over Stag Saddle although I somehow forget about as we climb up towards Bullock Bow Saddle through the impressive Mesopotamia Station. No wind and it feels like absolute bliss.
It’s like Tom and Adam suddenly turns into well oiled race machines at Bullock Bow Saddle and I see them zoom off into the distance. It inspires me and I to stop faffing and get in a good flow. A fast decent down to Royal Hut before the hike up to Stag Saddle. I’ve found a good way of carrying my bike and feel strong hiking up the hill and it’s a nice surprise seeing Megan and Daniel at the summit. Quick chat and then it’s onwards down Snake Ridge which gotta be one of the highlights although I constantly have to tell myself to slow down as this is no place for XC tires. The going out of Camp Stream could easily dampen one’s mood, but I’m on a mission to make it to Tekapo before closing time so I keep hoofing.
Another boost of energy seeing Mark at the end of the Richmond Trail and I feel on a high knowing I’m going to make it to
4 Square with heaps of time to spare. Tekapo with its absurd amount of tourist is overwhelming and I’m at loss navigating the shop and the deadly carpark outside of it. Glad to soon be cruising along the canal roads and I discover how voice messaging and phone calls through my headphones work who knew that’s really handy when biking.
No one asked, but everyone gets the tale of my many nose bleeds, using all my emergency tampons and then of course, getting my period way too early a days ride before the next shop and now with no tampons left. Oh, joy. Getting sleepy early and a cluster of pine trees looks like heaven so down I go.
📸 1&3 @highluxphoto
Day 4: Mt White to Peel Forest
I try to finish some cold mashed potato for breakfast but it’s not really going down. I’m looking forward a proper feed in Methven later on.
I enjoy quiet morning going up the highway and hitting the Craigieburn Trails feels like coming home. So many good memories here from many camping trips with friends and Trans NZ. Riding into Castle Hill is like coming back to civilisation and I’m surprised to see Mojo in clean clothes and not on a bike. Sad to hear his ride ended early but awesome that he’s now joined Anton in the red photo wagon. After another highway section it’s tailwind all the way to Methven. I fully dunk in the Rakaia with all my clothes on, so good. I order 2 pizzas in Methven and buy a wild amount of food in the 4 Square. A bunch of kids are wanting signatures on their helmet and shirts while I’m devouring a pizza and the a family asks if we’ve done a race up Mt. Hutt. Yeah something like that, I’m not sure how to explain where we just came from.
Funny how eating enough food makes you feel really good. Despite that I leave Methven feeling pretty hot and sleepy so I take a wee lie down in the shade of some pines.
I pull the headphones out for the first time along the straight and flat Cantebury Plains roads towards Peel Forest. I’ve had a few nose bleeds up untill then but now they are really setting in and they will not stop. I use all my toilet paper and wet wipes and there’s blood everywhere. On me, my bike and all gear. In the end I lie down next to the road with my head back, probably a disturbing image but luckily no one comes past. A few tampons later and we’re back on the road. I’m tired and get super confused on what’s actually just a simple bypass of a washed out road. Another bloody lie down session which is now getting old. It’s only 8pm when I roll into Peel Forest thinking that I’m just going to fill up my bottles. The friendly camp host suggests a cabin and a shower and how can you say no to that. Feels like a holiday! He doesn’t even raise an eyebrow at my bloody state and I’m concerned at the very white towel he hands me. Leftover pizza, a 2am alarm set and I’m feeling great.
📸 @antonmcgeachen
Tour Te Waipounamu Day 3:
Hurunui River to Beech Tree Bivy after Mt White Station.
Just before dawn I luckily discover that Zoe and Adam had the same thought (Tom somehow got his bike across in a midnight madness session) I’d taken my wheels and all bags off the bike, and my voice got pretty high pitch going across the bridge for the 6th time. Phew that was about 7 hours spent around the bridge with a very average sleep in the crowded Hurunui Hut.
Another crux is crossing the Hurunui South Branch to avoid a 30km detour. I’m not very hopefull but turning up to the crossing and seeing Bryce and Layton on the other side of the chocolate brown river is a huge relief. They very kindly make their way back across to help me as there’s no way I could have done it solo. Next up, the Dampier crossing. I’ve heard a lot of stories about this section and a pattern of the week starts; the “hard” sections become the easiest for me mentally as I’m prepared for it to be physically challenging where as the “easy” commutes between them, which are obviously often not as straightforward as on paper, is where I’m going to struggle. Enjoying the climb up the hill finding a good system of carrying my bike with pushing in between. I’ve taken my two front rolls off the front of the bike and strapped them to my running vest making it so much easier throwing the bike around.
The decent down the Dampier is where my full suspension bike and dropper post really comes in handy and I’m having an absolute blast in the sloppy conditions. RIP brake pads. Although Tom seems to be riding it even better on his fully ridged. The way out of the gigantic Mt White station feels like being in some weird eternity loop with a deceiving amount of climbing and a surprise swollen river crossing where I again wouldn’t have been able to cross without the help of team Bigmouth. Golden evening light, the weather has finally turned for the better and I’m having a great time. I decide to bivy under a perfect little cluster of beech trees while the others push on into the night.
Tour Te Waipounamu Day 2: Murchison to Hurunui River.
Rolling out of Murchison the exact same time as @zudago who’s come all the way from Zurich for his second go of the race. Beautiful bush heading over Maruia Saddle and while hitting the road a white ute comes storming up to towards me and out jumps Jack on his way home to QT. Quick hug and “tell Pete I’m happy as”
Hilarious section through DreadfulVille Station and despite being covered in cowshit I prefer it to being on the main road. Then followed by a lovely section on West Bank Road. Refuel at Springs Junction discovering that lasagna toppers goes extremely well in damp weather.
Big road climb over Lewis Pass coming up. Getting passed by a million big trucks sends divers down my spine although @alastairmcdowell reckons they are just giving you a nice warm blast of wind. The heavens opens down towards Boyle Lodge where our resupply boxes are waiting. I say no to a pizza (??!!) and I’m still regretting it today but I had so much food in my box. I’m pretty soaked and get going quickly towards Hopeless Kiwi Track. Wet and sloppy conditions makes for pretty tough going with most of the 30km section being an awkward tramping trip with a bikecycle in tow. Saying it’s a full body work out makes it sound fun. Was it? Maybe not.
It’s raining solidly going over the Kiwi Saddle and trying to ride small sections of the decent has my brakes echoing through the forest like a mad beast.
I approach the Hurunui River and in my demented state I find myself in the dark; carrying my bike halfway across the swollen river with water up to my waist before I think wtf I’m I doing and turn around. Think to myself that this is how accidents happen but also I’m kinda excited as it is so rare to be part of a race where you actually have to make these decisions on your own. No hand holding here that’s for sure and I’m all about it.
Not too keen on being a statistic I decide that the Swing Bridge of Doom is the way forward. It’s an absolute bitch to cross with a bike according to Brian’s notes so I decide it will be better to try and cross in the morning.
📸 @antonmcgeachen
Way to long day by day recap of @tourtewaipounamu coming up but I enjoyed reading stories from the previous editions and it’s also impossible boiling this experience down to tiny captions for me.
Pictures provided by the talented @antonmcgeachen . Thank you so much for being out there and a huge effort documenting this journey for everyone.
Day 1. Cape Farewell to Murchison.
Lots of nervous energy at the campsite pre race start but luckily the heavy rain showers seemed to get fewer and far between just before go time and jackets were coming off.
As expected the road section towards Collingwood was fast and I don’t like being in a bunch so I was happy when we hit the beach and everyone can do their own thing. Climbing up the Rameka Track and being in the bush seems like bliss after being on the road all morning. I catch up to Tom and @acarlsonnz and a common theme of yo-yoing with them all the way to Tekapo begins. So happy to have a few familiar faces out there. No better way getting out of your own head than being around those two and their great vibes, they might be on to something.
After a quick refuel at Tapawera we head towards Rainy Station and a quad bike comes zooming towards me “Coke or Sprite?” great start to the first private land section and the first of many friendly farmers trusting us with a gate or two. Rain starts setting in going over the Porika as darkness falls and I’m surprised to see Anton in what feels like the middle of nowhere. The rain stops as I roll down the long tarmac section into Murchison where I wiggle my bike into a motel room and get a pretty broken 5 hours sleep.
I’m struggling to eat my freeze dried meal even with the luxury of boiling water but that’s is probably to be expected after the nerves of day 1 and pushing relatively hard. I pretty quickly into the race realise that real simple food like cheese, salami and wraps works better for me. Heavier than freeze dried but then they are pointless if you can’t actually get them down especially when cold.
Tour Te Waipounamu. So much to process about this journey but first of all thank you to @brianinpics for giving me a spot in the race despite my very minimal bikepacking experience. Thank you for creating this truly unique opportunity to traverse down the South Island in a way that would never normally be possible without the permission of various landowners. Still in awe of the vastness of some of those backcountry stations with Narnia like never ending valleys making it possible for us to bypass big chunks of highway sections. Thanks to you we all got the opportunity to have something to train for and obsess over. This race is way more than a week of riding your bike. It’s many months of preparation, big training missions and hours at work daydreaming. It truly became a full time hobby for me. And thank you to the volunteers at the Slope Point ICU who made finishing an absolute dream and treated us all like royalty. You have now ruined all future race experiences! More thoughts to come when I’ve finished napping and eating.
📸 @samisauri
Introducing @evadethlefsen and her Tour Te Waipounamu steed. Eva’s pretty fresh to bikepacking racing but her background in endurance adventures in heaps of other disciplines should mean she feels right at home out in the backcountry. Those years racing in the Enduro World Series probably won’t hurt for the epic descents either. Have a blast out there, Eva!
Was lucky enough to join a DOC trapping trip in Doubtfull and Dusky Sounds last November on their boat Southern Winds. Such special places and a great crew. We did have insanely good weather on the trip so might not have had the real experience 😂
1: Secretary Island
2: Southern Winds - our home for 10 days
3: Looking down on Doubtful Sound
4: Gadget the Jack Russel
5: Bottlenose in Dusky
6: This Karearea and its mate was not impressed with me on Resolution Island when I must have walked to close to their nest and they started bomb diving me but I made it past them unscathed. Great thing was that I had to come back that same way and they were still not happy about it.
7: Resolution Island
8: Saw a few of these
9: Southern Royal Albatross
3rd year of volunteering for @transnzenduro and it’s still the best week with awesome people. Stoked on bikes again! 😀 thanks for the snap📸 @theperfectline
