Merci Targasonne, A beintot!
Rollercoaster of a last day. Thought spray below.
After a couple weekend trips up here i had gotten locked in to trying to send the classic Queen of Hearts 8b/8b+, after doing all the moves and sending the stand start i was feeling confident but of course, nothing comes easy.. I ended up falling from the last move to the jug 4 times and with the sharpness and fatigue, it became real that it wouldn’t happen this trip.
Last week, i had felt dejected and frustrated after falling from the last move for the first time and had thoughts like 'why ament i doing this?' and 'i should do this because i can do this'. This week I knew I didn’t want a repeat of that. While i didn’t get the send, my feelings were totally switched, the experience and opportunity to be climbing in such a beautiful place is the real win and being mindful through the process helped a lot.
With no big goal left, i had the pleasure to climb with some local crushers
@alex_led1 ,
@thomas.pamies and Clementine R... they showed me a bunch of cool boulders i wouldn’t have checked out and i even managed to flash Le Tombeau 7c, then promptly tried the sit which i did first go from sitting, Le Tombeau assis 8a+.
The psyche was high, we then tried the power classic, I shot Sarconazy, where i did the stand and all the moves of the 8b sit but after 2 days, i was too gassed to link it.
Lastly, alone i went to try the king line of the area, the Chris Sharma Classic, In the Shadow (du bas) 8a+, alone I knew this would be a bit of an epic as the boulder is about 8m. My first go from the start that day, I came to the crux, and tragedy. I break off the crux hold.
Without that hold the move changed and i had to re-learn the position, with diminishing light and a hole in my skin after breaking the hold, i wanted to make sure the boulder could still go with a different hold. I did it from the crux to the top but couldn’t manage the full line. I saved the hold and let the locals know, Its up to the people who have the passion for the place and climb here the most to decide what should be done.
1: Cow bell melody 2: Le Tombeau assis 8a+ (second go) 3: hold break 4: High point on the Queen
