How amazing is the ocean and surfing?! What a privilege it is to grow up by the Pacific and enjoy Mother Nature’s finest creation || Wave riding and creating images around it has been such a huge portion of my life, I honestly can’t imagine what life would be like without it || I’m very much looking forward to creating more memories for years to come; attached are a few favorites of myself over the years || Happy International Surfing Day everyone, please continue to enjoy and respect our oceans as well as help keep them clean as best as possible 🙌🏼🙏🏼 || #internationalsurfingday #isd
It’s hard to put into words how grateful I am to have been able to pursue my passion of photographing the ocean, surf, surf lifestyles and cultures all around the world as part of the SURFER magazine team. From having surf (and bodyboard) posters covering every inch of my walls as a kid, to getting one of my first ever published shots in the mag and then years later becoming a staff photographer; SURFER magazine and magazines in general have played a huge part in my life.
Although I was sad to hear the news this weekend, I am inspired by all the comments online about how SURFER has shaped a lot of us over their 60 years and how many of us photographers and surfers, have had career defining moments by appearing in the magazine. The overwhelming satisfaction of seeing an image in print will never get old and although this chapter in my life has closed, I’m confident that other opportunities will present themselves as the photography landscape continues to shift.
First and foremost, I have to thank @grantellis1 and @todprod for giving me a chance at the magazine. I submitted images for years. I strived to learn as much as possible and improve my photography with each submission - all the while focused on my goal of being a staff photographer. On a trip to South Africa, I pitched myself (my photography) to Todd while we explored the open coastline of the Transkei. Later that year (2015) during one of my bi-annual trips down to Southern California, I met with Grant who casually told me that he’d like to get me on retainer; I was so elated, I couldn’t believe I’d get to have another opportunity working at a magazine (I only worked for Transworld briefly before they folded). From The Solomon Islands to PNG, New Zealand to Puerto Rico, I really appreciated SURFERs approach to sharing stories about unique personalities in the surfing world and how they were being influential in their communities; it was an honor to be part of those features.
The people I’ve met along the way, the friendships we’ve formed and those memories that are deeply engrained, SURFER has been a massive part of what has made my life great and I’ll appreciate those times forever 🙏🏼❤
Thank you for the birthday wishes everyone, i really appreciate it!!!! This past trip around the sun was the most difficult yet. I don’t know what i learned but i do know that I am fortunate to have so many people in my life that went out of their way to make sure that i was ok this past year and wanted to see me happy. With my dad’s anniversary in a few days time, i’ll hold off on pouring out my heart but to my oldest friends, new friends, friends of friends, girlfriend, family and most of all, my mother and sister, I love you. Here’s looking back at some of my better memories during this whirlwind of a year. And thanks again everyone 🙏🏼
2016 was an amazing season out at Mavericks // I had a chat with @surfer_magazine about one day in particular, February 4th // A day seared in my mind // A huge wipeout by Nic Vaughn (pictured) set the tone in the morning and by midday there was the odd set washing through the entire lineup, slides 4-5 // take a peak on the site for more // Thanks again @miahklein for jogging my memory 🙌🏻
Some photos just need more space // here’s my Instagram equivalent to a DPS (double page spread) // which one is your favorite from this mismatch collection? I’m always curious to know, thanks 🙌🏻
1. Pipeline spilt peak with Nate Florence and Eli Olsen
2. Santa Cruz
3. Michel Bourez - Steamer Lane - WCT event
4. Nat Young eject
5. Massive Nias
6. Los Angeles
On the right days, home can have some of the best waves anywhere in the world 🙌🏻 // Swipe to see this mutant attempted to be rode…. Fingers crossed there will be another day like this in the future // This wave was photographed in 2015 🫡
John John Florence flying through a Backdoor cave // I remember this morning being one filled with anxiety, Backdoor is often so shifty that swimming a fisheye can almost be heart attack inducing 😂 // It was great to see @christian_habberstad ‘s clip swimming next to me as well as the land angle from @guy__mac of this sequence of JJF// It’s always a trip to see how big Backdoor looks like from land - another reason it can be intimidating before a swim // please swipe to see the full sequence, thanks for looking 🙌🏻
Mr. Nat Young ripping into one of California’s trickiest waves // The backdrop is a 10/10 with a wave quality of 3/10 which means it’s occasionally worth the effort 😂 // This was from a rare summer time northwest swell, which, by the way weather patterns are shifting increasingly more often these days, might not be so rare moving forward 🤷🏻♂️🤔 // scroll ➡️ for more @nat_young
Golden hour illuminates a lone surfer on the peak after a passing storm // Those short windows just after sunrise or just before sunset - where the lighting is as good as light gets 🙌🏻 // My favorite light for sure //
One of my favorite drone shots of one of my favorite surfers // Liam O’Brien ripping apart small and shallow Off The Wall // Shot back in 2018 with my first DJI drone I believe // So stoked to see you back on tour where you belong 💪🏼 @liamobr_
