A quick post for the stat nerds:
.
Miles traveled: 1,225.29 miles
Dates: Aug 21 - Oct 2, 2024
Approx. total paddle strokes: 1,276,800
Maximum speed: 12+ mph
Average speed: 4.5 mph
Bears seen: 0
Rattlesnakes seen: 0
Notable wildlife seen: Porcupine, Bighorn Sheep, Coyotes, Deer, River Otters, so many birds
Hotels/Airbnd/real bed nights: 18
Camping nights: 22
Days paddling: 38
Days not paddling: 4
Rainy days: 2
Times we dumped the canoe: 2
Dams portaged on foot: 6
Dams portaged in a car: 7
Dams paddled through via locks: 1
International border portaged/crossed: 1
River Angels met: 3 (Linda, Kerry & Kitt)
Lakes paddled: 17
States/Provinces: 3
Countries: 2
Counties: 27
Lost items: Smith glasses, Hydroflask, Goal Zero battery bank, cable lock, glove, sponge
Last place we filtered water directly from river: Rufus Woods Lake
People we met doing same thing: 2 ( @sea.to.source )
Made the paper! @lukas.prinos ‘ coverage landed us on the inside cover of the Thursday, Oct 3 issue of the Astorian. Thanks y’all! #aggressivelyaverageadventures
Day 42. 10.92 miles. Astoria to the Pacific. We made it! Finally. Got up and had breakfast in the lobby at Hotel Elliott. Then we drove out to where we left the canoe (thanks @astoriascubaadventure for letting us keep it there!) where we were met by the good dude @lukas.prinos . He was from The Astorian and @amandafank had reached out to let them know we were coming through and he was potentially covering it. Chatted for a quick sec and then got the boat in the water for the last stretch.
.
Depending on wind, tide and boat traffic the general mileage was going to be between 10 and 13 miles and today started out with glass, almost no boat traffic and it was shortly after slack tide. We hugged the inside of the marina and got barked at by hundreds of sea lions. Made out way under the 101 Astoria-Megler Bridge toward Youngs Bay. A slight breeze was coming from the south but it wasn’t a deal breaker so we decided to make the 2 miles crossing.
.
Once across we hugged the left shore heading north toward the ocean. And fought a pretty good incoming tide. Our easy glassy water was exchanged with some tricky currents, jacked up waves and wind now out of the east. On top of that our boat was fully empty so our Cadillac was now a Ferrari and it handled totally different.
.
We pulled over after a tough spell at the mouth of the Hammond Marina and regrouped. Our families were waiting across Jetty Lagoon so we came up with a strategy to duck behind a really long breakwater to get across and it worked great. Finally made it to the beach to hugs & high fives. Thanks to all our family ( @ggfank44 , @amandafank , @ram_fam , markawentzel, marciasimonwentzel , and others) and even friends’ families ( @poopie487 & @weeniedavis ) for the cheers and congrats.
.
Hiked the boat to the parking lot while talking with Lukas, then loaded it up for the last time and headed back to Astoria for lunch. Not enough room here to say thanks to everyone for all the direct and indirect help on this crazy idea but you know who you are. Cheers!
Day 41. 31.6 miles. Puget Island to Astoria. Woke up to damp stuff and pea-soup fog. Packed up and made the decision to cross back over to the mainland despite the risk. Maybe the biggest gamble we’ve taken so far. Considering the shipping traffic we’d witnessed since last night we probably shoulda waited it out but instead we just went. After a bit I checked my phone and Apple maps (blue direction pointer) was saying we were pointing downriver. B’s spidey-sense said to keep going the direction we were pointing so we did. When I checked my phone’s compass (not Apple maps direction) it confirmed my Apple maps was way off. Thankfully after few paddles we saw the other side.
.
Followed the Oregon shore in the fog only leaving to go around the numerous piling dikes. Then we came upon a huge mill with a bunch of barges that turned out to be a Georgia-Pacific paper mill. After the fog began to burn off a tail wind built up and, though it was speeding us up, it was tricky to keep straight and not heel. Thankfully today was basically linking a bunch of channels (one really narrow cheat) so not too big a deal in those sections.
.
Finally we got to Cathlamet Bay and prepared to round the crux part of the day…Tongue Point. We got calories and water behind Mott Island, strategized and then went for it. As we got to the point we realized the unencumbered white caps coming from the east and the ripping ebb tide were over our skills. Dump it there and it’d be a really long dangerous swim. We turned and headed back to the last safe spot to portage. We were met by a rad guy named Boats that explained we couldn’t portage there but kindly directed us to the next best spot so we reloaded and moved on.
.
Turns out my parents were already in town and they agreed to come get our packs and we began portaging the boat. Our expected put-in was a bust so B’s mom and Mark met us to help get the boat to Pier 39…which also happened to be Rogue Brewery so we had a beer.
.
Finally got to the hotel and were greeted by family, snacks, drinks, etc…a full on homecoming! Then we all went out to Fort George Brewery for a late dinner to get ready for the last push tomorrow. Weird day but still alive
Day 40. 35.6 miles. Goat Island to Puget Island. Woke up early before sunrise but not on purpose. Less daylight already?! Made coffee and breakfast while giant freighters caused mini-tsunamis in the bay just north of us, pulling water out and then flooding them sending the geese running & flying.
.
Packed up and headed out, making great time on a glassy outgoing tide, flying by Kalama and the McMenamins we’d wanted to stay at. Rounded the corner across from the Cowlitz River confluence and pulled into the marina at Rainier. Walked up to the Chevron and got water and some food.
After getting back in the boat we cruised under the really tall Lewis and Clark Bridge by Longview.
.
Continued to hug the Oregon side as the tide changed ducking behind Lord Island on some nice glass. After that we hit the headwind that would persist the rest of the day.
.
We continued to stay left of Crims Island and then rounded the corner by some big factory into a long straight away with no protection. After a couple of miles we were pretty tired but finally made it to Wallace Slough where the Clatskanie River dumps in. We continued to battle a headwind until finally we reached the west end of Wallace Island where we took a break.
.
The tide line was pretty high and with no place to retreat to we made the call to cross to Jones Beach. On the other side it was super windy but we had no choice but to start making camp. Halfway through some random dude pulled up with a flyer saying we couldn’t camp there. I called the number for Oregon State Lands but it referred me to the police who then referred me to the local sheriff who I explained our situation to as the sun was setting. He was awesome and said if the dude didn’t have a badge & gun, the worst that could happen is they’d come out and talk to us. But honestly…was it worth potentially getting hassled by this guy? We decided to just pack all our gear (again) and battle over to the SE tip of Puget Island. It was rough going but short.
.
Exhausted, we made camp, strategized plans for tomorrow, ate, sipped some delicious hot cider & whiskey and watched Sunday Night Football. Hoping to push all the way to Astoria tomorrow!
Day 39. 29.2 miles. Portland to Goat Island. This morning started with a quick walk to New Seasons Market for coffee and a breakfast sandwich. Then back to the Savage’s to pack up, say thank you and call an Uber. @stephaniesavage1 wasn’t going to let us go without some sandwiches, snack refills, and fresh cut oranges tho. Thanks Steph! Even got to say goodbye to @cssvage1 on the way out via their Ring camera.
.
Once we got to the Portland Yacht Club (thanks again Commodore Ron!), we loaded the canoe and set off with a bit more apprehension considering how yesterday ended. We paddled through the awesome North Portland Harbor houseboats, under I-5 (milestone!) and ultimately past a giant freighter being unloaded. Stopped for a quick break at Kelley Point then crossed the confluence of the Willamette and it was surprisingly smooth.
.
After that we just hugged the Oregon shore and it was pretty smooth going. Stopped at noon and had the sandies Steph made and then carried on. At some point we were passing a beach and it looked like all the people had the same color suits on. Turns out they did…none! It was Collins Clothing Optionsl Beach on Sauvie Island and it seemed like it went on for miles. Ha!
.
Watched some big freighters and barges pass and then the wind really picked up and we had to battle our way against a small incoming tide as well as the wind all the way to St Helens. We decide to stop at the marina and strategize over a burger and a beer. When we walked up to town it was like we stepped into the Twilight Zone. There were tons of people dressed up, booths, decorations and music. They were in the middle of their Spirit of Halloween Town festival (apparently the Disney movie was filmed there). Anyway…we settled at Crooked Creek Brewery and had a great late lunch and played some cards while the tide turned.
.
Got back out and decided to make a push for Kalama. The tide was working but the wind was still a battle. By the time it was getting close to dark we’d made it to the north end of Goat Island. Set up camp, had some dessert and cheers over a successful day. Considering how we were feeling going into today it felt like a win. Hopefully more tomorrow.
Day 38. 27.4 miles. Dalton Point to Portland. The warm dry mornings have been replaced with damp cool ones. Fall is here. Drizzled on us all night which made that decision to get out of the tent a bit rougher.
.
It was misty and cool in the morning and we spent it avoiding running up on shallow sandbars that extended super far from shore. Paddled by Rooster Rock and shortly after hugged the right bank and stopped on Reed Island. While stopped a big cruise ship that looked like a sternwheeler and a tug with barges passed by. Jumped back in the canoe and avoided fishing boats all the way to the port of Camas/Washougal. There’s a sweet little dockside cafe there called the Puffin Cafe so we had lunch and then got back after it.
.
Crossed back over to the Oregon side and took the channel south of McGuire Island by some cool boathouses. When we got to the east end of Government Island the wind picked up. Paddled past a few unfortunate and shady settings, past the 205 bridge while big planes flew over and eventually took a break across from the west end of Government Island.
,
@cssvage1 ‘s brother Ron is the commodore for Portland Yacht Club and he offered to let us keep the canoe there overnight so we jumped at the opportunity. As we rounded the last bend of airport the wind started to come on strong and the reverb waves off of McCuddy’s Marina combined to make a really rodeo worthy last stretch but we made it.
.
We unloaded the boat at the yacht club and eventually met up with Ron and his wife Cathy and their friends. Awesome people for the win…again! They were full of super useful information as well as reassuring positivity for the next stretch. So thankful for their help.
.
It was getting late so we took an Uber to @stephaniesavage1 ‘s house and met up her, Owen and Will. They weren’t supposed to be home til later but had a change of plans so we all got caught up, laid last nights gear out to dry, took showers, did a load of laundry, ate some yummy food Steph made and then they surprised me with another bday celebration. So badass. Feelin pretty lucky, very grateful and also exhausted from the headwind fight.
Day 37. 38.5 miles. Hood River to Dalton Point. After packing everything back up this morning and saying goodbye to G, Riley, Tate and Rooney, Sarah and Michael gave us a ride back to the marina with a stop st Grounds for a quick caffeine fix and a breakfast sandwich. We say our goodbyes, they set us free and away we went out around the Hood River sandbar.
.
The water was great again so we just straight lined from point to point only stopping a couple times for calories. The most striking difference today was the scenery. Gone were the grasses and we were fully cutting through the Cascades with trees, cliffs, waterfalls etc. Passed a big barge as Lake Bonneville started to widen and then crossed over to the Cascade Locks side. Saw the giant scarp that Gardner had told us to look for that was remnants of the huge slide a long time ago that created a temporary land bridge there.
.
Paddled through the locks (which are no longer used since flooded when the dam was built) and pulled into a dock. Then walked up to @thunderislandbrewing for lunch, passing the apparently famous East Wind Drive-In.
.
After eating we headed back out on glassy water that narrowed under the Bridge Of The Gods and made our way toward Eagle Creek. A huge barge came up on our behind us headed for the Bonneville Locks do we pulled way left. Then we rounded the bend into Eagle Creek an pulled out under the bridge with a bunch of spawned out salmon carcasses. Got everything ready for the long portage and started walking. This is our last dam! We crossed a bridge over the creek near the hatchery snd the salmon were in full run. So amazing to think how far they’ve come and this was it.
.
This portage was interesting. Some bridges, unexpected stairs, more elevation than we’d had and cool views of the dam. At the end we stopped at the Bonneville Hatchery and checked out the huge Sturgeon pond. Crazy!
..
Then we put back on after Tanner Creek, avoiding fishing boats and getting blinded going straight at the setting sun. We had good current for a bit but then it relaxed and we just kept going until finally reaching Dalton Point. Set up camp right at dark. Long day. Portland tomorrow!
Day 36. 0 miles, more smiles. Hood River. Woke up in the Johnston/Fox casita, then walked to town and had breakfast at Bette’s Place (so good). After that we walked down to check out the river and check on the boat. The whitecaps were out but not too bad and the boat was good to go at the marina. Winds weren’t supposed to pick up til later in the afternoon.
.
Walked through town checking out all the shops, getting supplies, checking out art, and then grabbed a quick snack at Double Mountain. Talked to @iammichaelfox who was driving all the way down from Seattle to hang for the day. He was still a bit out so we agreed to meet at Pfriem. Soon as we got seated it started to rain. That’s when Fox came in. So good to see him. Had a beer and lunch and got caught up and then he gave us a ride for some last second supplies before heading back up to Sarah & G’s.
.
Hung out there for a while on the porch in rocking chairs until everyone was done with their days and then went to Pietro’s Pizza. I grew up with one in our hometown but I think the Hood River one is one of the last. Same recipe, same smell, same sounds, same great taste. Tate and Riley crushed it on vids while the rest of us talked.
.
After dinner we all went back to the house and did an impromptu slideshow of the trip highlights off my phone to their tv. Then it was time for sleep. Today was a huge recharge and so thankful for this time, this wind/weather refuge and this company. Back on the river tomorrow to hopefully get around the last dam.
Day 35. 40.2 miles. Maryhill to Hood River. The stars aligned today. We were hesitant on our ability to keep to the schedule because this stretch can get so crazy with wind and an open canoe isn’t the best in big water. But somehow Mother Nature gave us a pass.
.
Got up and did all the normal things (coffee, breakfast, camp breakdown, pack boat) and were paddling by 8:30. Perfect conditions. Paddled under the 97 bridge and took the shortcut north of Miller Island. Then watched a tug pushing 4 huge barges at once while trains and highway on both sides of the river fired at will. It was super hot today and we dipped hats & scooped water often.
.
Stopped on Browns Island for a quick break and then pushed on to the Dalles Dam. The views of Hood were SO amazing. Once there we loaded the boat on the cart and did the portage which included walking from the WA side to the OR side on the 197 bridge. On OR side there was a McDonalds so we splurged. It was going to be 23 more miles to Hood River, but it was before 2pm, we had a bit of current, and it was either glass or a slight tail breeze so we decided to make the most of the conditions and go for it.
.
Made quick work of it cutting corners on the glass and only stopping once on a beach across from Memaloose Island where we pulled in next to a giant rotting sturgeon carcass. This whole stretch between the Dalles and Hood River was so cool. It got more narrow, trees are now more prominent than grass and unique rock features and coves are everywhere. Also helps it was glassy.
.
Pulled into the marina after going under the Hood River Bridge and unloaded on the dock. Paid for moorage and called our friends @sarahfoxhere and @jgardnerjohnston who had invited us to stay with their family. Sarah picked us up and took us back to their house where we got to shower, sample Gardner’s famous margaritas and eat one of the best meals of the trip while getting caught up on life, laughing, learning about the community & river history and story telling. Awesome people for the win again!
.
The winds pick up tomorrow so gonna take a day off the river before the final push.
Day 34. 34.4 miles. Arlington to Maryhill. Not gonna lie…we’re both startin’ to feel the grind. The last few days the scenery changes, though beautiful, have been so slow because the scale is so much larger and the exposure so much longer that we’re just sorta going through the motions of getting this stretch done.
.
Ok…today… B got up early and walked out to check the wind. Came back with pastries, coffees and confirmed it was light wind but a headwind. We hit the gas station for some micro’d breakfast sandwiches and rolled the boat down and headed out. Immediately it was a headwind but way more manageable than last night so we just hugged the left bank of several miles. Glided over lots of Native nets run off the banks and watch some big barges go by. Then the wind began to ease and we needed to be on the opposite shore so we crossed.
.
Once on the other side we stopped for a bit for food and water and I found an unopened cherry-cola so cracked it and it was good to go. After that we rounded a long corner and the wind let up so much that the huge windmills high on the canyon walls were almost still for a bit so we cut the corner. As we did a big barge came from behind us so we had to hustle a bit.
.
Finally rounded the corner and John Day Dam came into view. Beyond it Mt Hood was spectacular. We pulled to river right and paddled through a culvert into an open bay with a boat launch that marker our portage route. Made some lunch, B took a nap, and then we portaged the dam. It was hot but fairly easy. Cooled down with a swim on the other side.
.
Put back in and then powered into a headwind and setting sun for another 6(ish) miles next to a bunch of tribal fishing platforms and also another passing cruise ship. Finally got to Peach Beach RV Park at Maryhill and got a spot. Ate din and watched Monday Night Football on the phone. Then called it a night. Hoping for a big day with better (less) wind tomorrow cause might have to not paddle Wednesday due to the wind forecast being so intense.