Well, it’s time to do something stupid again. We’re leaving in a week to go from sea to source and back to sea again. Using the Pacific Northwest and Great Divide Trails, we’ll travel to the source of the Columbia River on foot. From there, it’s a 1200 mile paddle from the source of the river back to the ocean. Here’s the route and some of the highlights.
It’s been a pleasant month on dry land, but there’s definitely a part of us that misses putting one paddle (or foot) in front of the other. Here are some charts and stats to help relive the journey a bit.
The data comes from our COROS watches. GPS data is fairly accurate, but optical heart rate data can always be a bit finicky no matter the device. In addition, calories burned derives from heart rate. So active calories = estimated calories burned during the activity. To get our estimated calories burned for the whole day, add around another 1,000.
Columbia River Day 49 // Total Day 121
Astoria River to Clatsop Spit
7.3 miles
Aaaaand that’s a wrap!! 4 months from the Washington coast to the Continental Divide to source of the Columbia River and back to the coast.
A very quick day today, we hit the continental breakfast at 6:30 before heading out one last time. Put kayaks in the water and pushed off into a grey morning.
The Columbia River has not always felt like the friendliest river, especially during the last 2 weeks around the Gorge, but we got the most amazing sunrise leaving Astoria which made up for all the hard feelings. One last crossing at Young’s bay, and since we had beautiful calm weather, we just straight shot towards the spit. The tide was the strongest we’ve felt, sitting still we’d still be moving forwards at 4mph. We actually had to delay and back paddle a bit to give our finish crew time to get to Clatsop to meet us since we weren’t expecting to drift so quickly.
But we did finish in the salty water at the spit and bid the Columbia farewell. Griff and Kyle had champagne and hype for us while we took final photos, cleaned out the kayaks and strapped them to the top of Kevin’s car for the trip back to Seattle.
Not a ton of deep thoughts or emotion about finishing right now, but I’m sure that will come in time. Mostly very happy and proud about finishing the kayak portion of the trip, while we had lots of hiking experience, the big question mark all summer for us was “how the heck will we handle kayaking 1200 miles as newbies?”
We’ve been working on some trip stats to share shortly but in the meantime also wanted to thank everyone that’s followed along and shared support along the way, the generosity we’ve experienced from friends, family, trail/river angels and complete strangers made the trip so much better. Jack & Kev ❤️❤️❤️
Columbia River Day 48 // Total Day 120
Hunts Mill Point to Astoria
24.1 miles
The last morning pack up of camp and setting off in the dark to keep the tides. Now that we’re close to the oceans, theres no delay as the change moves up the river and as soon as we put in, we were ripping along at 5mph. The river opened up and it no longer felt like a river at all, just water across the whole horizon where the Columbia meets the Pacific. No more rain today but a deep fog stuck around in the morning, sometimes obscuring the whole channel around us. Spooky.
We stuck to the Oregon side as long as we could before navigating through a clump of small islands. We did pretty well until realizing that exposed land from low tide barred us from returning to the mainland and had us pretty much shooting 3 miles straight across open water to Tongue point. The full swell of the channel at our backs created some pretty good chop and it was definitely a faulty decision (on almost the last day 🙄) but it’s neat to see how far our skills as kayakers have come this trip, we would NEVER have been comfortable with this crossing in the early weeks.
Once around Tongue point, we were about to settle in before just sending it against the returning flood tide. The huge tailwind at our back provided surfable waves that kept us at 3mph+ even after the tide had mostly turned.
We paddled under the iconic Astoria bridge and to the far end of town to our hotel. We actually could have finished the trip today as we only had 8 miles to go in the early afternoon but both of us maybe weren’t quite ready to be fully completely done. Left the kayaks in some tall grass behind the hotel and immediately went to the nearest food truck.
Our finishing party consisted of Kevin’s brother Griff and friend Kyle + his pup that we missed SO MUCH. They arrived in the evening and felt really good to see them, but also seeing familiar faces nailed down that this was really the end of our four month trip. Had great dinner and beer at @fortgeorgebeer . Tomorrow morning we’ll get up early one last time to catch the outbound tide and finally get to finish the river! Feeling relieved and sad at the same time.
Columbia River Day 47 // Total Day 119
Prescott to Hunts Mill Point
34.8 miles
And as we’re nearing the point where the Columbia widens into a huge mouth and treacherous bar, there’s no more bends heading south or north, only one direction left: straight west. Another early morning of balancing our launch with the tides and paddling in the dark. We put our headlamps on backwards for any sneaky barges but this morning was very quiet on the river.
And our luck with beautiful sunny October weather finally ran out! Not many pictures today because it poured hard almost all day. There was a super neat phenomenon at sunrise where we still got pink and orange light from the side before the sun disappeared up into dark clouds again. Saw our first harbor seals, bobbing along behind the kayaks. We’re also constantly having to weave around wing dams sticking out from the banks, they push flow towards the middle of the river to help with erosion/lessen the dredging needed for the big ships.
We were poured on until about 2pm, which made for a very moody coastal PNW day, and also amplified the smell of pulp mills. Our touring skirts aren’t fully waterproof so they eventually started dripping through into our cozy dry cockpits. A very soggy day. But tides were great and we made good time, had gone 30 miles by 1pm. At that point we were again battling against the incoming tide and pulled off on a tiny beach near Westport. The river gods were with us and the sun came out for a bit, so yard-saled everything out to dry. We baked in the glorious sun while watching the world’s smallest ferry go back and forth. A few more lazy miles once tides calmed down and camped at a private beach (saw the sign in the morning, oops).
Repetition is also starting to wear on us (food, camp routine, paddle all day) and while we’re feeling ready to finish, it’s likely our last night camping! Have a hotel tomorrow in Astoria to meet the finish support crew, although we’ll probably take another day after to finish. We also made the decision that instead of finishing at Cape Disappointment, it’s way safer and logistically easier to finish on the Oregon side (Clatsop spit). 2 days left!
Columbia River Day 46 // Total Day 118
Caterpillar Island to Prescott-ish
25.8 miles
We’re feeling like it’s time to be off this river but it won’t let us! Despite having a morning ebb tide, forward progress was negated by a nasty headwind. We’re getting pretty achy from the extra muscle needed to fight forward in wind, and felt like today was going to be a long day.
Spent the morning weaving among fishing boats and staying out of the way of ocean liners and barges. We have maps that include the shipping channels which is very helpful and mostly have been sticking to the Oregon side of the river. Stopped for a break on an island directly across from the town of Saint Helens. There was a very nice campground, completely empty this time of year and had a quick snack there before getting back in the water to take advantage of as much tide as we could.
When we lost the ebb tide, it was too much to battle both wind and current. Slogged a slow couple miles to a beach that we shared with some cows to wait out the weather conditions. It hurt a bit to be there, we were only a couple miles short of McMenamins (could see the building across the river). Probably could have fought our way over, but definitely would have been vortexed and we still wanted to make a few more miles today so it was probably for the best.
Had a late lunch on the beach, very nice to cook meals in the middle of the day using tides as an excuse. Shuffled around chasing the sun, it was chilly when out of it. Eventually the wind died down and we decided to head out again even though tides hadn’t fully turned. Barely made 3mph, but at least we were moving and the later we paddled, the more boost from tide we got.
Just after sunset, started to get worried about finding a camp but there was a neat little cove tucked away with a beach. Set up camp by headlamp and made dinner in the dark - very happy to be off the water because the barges were coming by frequently and sneakily with very little lighting. Not our favourite day on the river but trying to enjoy the last few days as much as we can before Astoria!
Columbia River Day 45 // Total Day 117
Chinook Landing to Caterpillar Island
21.7 miles
Our first morning timing with the tides! This week we have pretty good luck for scheduling, on the water by 6 and it took about an hour and a half after for us to feel the outward pull. By 11am we were going 5mph and that was with a strong headwind that kicked up mid morning. We were not expecting to feel them so much this far upriver but move over wind, there’s a new and more powerful god on the river.
Lots of noise from the highway and planes heading into PDX. Highlight of the day was the stretch by Hayden Island, with lots of multicoloured houseboats lining the river. Kevin docked and ran up under I5 like a rat to get subs and coffee for lunch…sometimes you forget to appreciate your partner until you see them bringing treats down a steep, rocky, trash-strewn underpass.
After passing the big cranes of the shipping harbour, the river opened big and wide with some swells a little bigger than was comfortable. Passed our first big ocean liners than made the Snake River barges seem like nice little paddle boats. Portland Harbour security buzzed us a couple times as we came close to some of the ships moored in the middle of the river, which didn’t help the wave situation.
And about two hours after the turn of the tides we again noticed the change, slowing from 4 to 3 to 2mph. Without the tidal push, the headwinds once again became a nemesis but we felt strong on subs and espresso and kept weaving between barges until we were battling to make progress, the tide + wind was too much. A couple walking along the beach beside us left us in the dust which was embarrassing.
We pulled out at 3:30pm on a nice beach, there’s a surprising amount of public land so close to Vancouver/Portland. A relaxing afternoon with swims and reading and watching the ocean liners.
The new tide schedule of wake up early / end early will likely stick until the end of the trip, the tides override wind and any river current and it’s not worth fighting them. Put the tent up in some sheltering bushes at sunset, up again early tomorrow to catch as much of the helpful tide as possible.
Columbia River Day 44 // Total Day 116
Cascade Locks to Chinook Landing Marine Park
31.1 miles
Woken at 3am by the sound of a small creature chomping through Kevin’s food bag. Prepared to battle with a rat or raccoon but when we got the headlamp on, we found a small cat! A new critter for the nighttime visits bucket list.
We put in under Bridge of the Gods. Passed lots of Chinook salmon fishermen as we approached the takeout for our final portage, and we started to see salmon (both dead and alive) alongside the kayaks, starting to fall apart as they made their way up Eagle creek. Pulled out under a noisy train track. A very chilly morning and the water is getting so cold, swimming might be behind us.
Bonneville was the first dam built, and the last portage. It also stumped our rating system (S-tier to F-tier). It was long and there were surprise tall stairs that were difficult to maneuver the kayaks up, BUT it was also paved, mostly along a quiet bike path and also just so…nice? We’re back in what feels like the classic PNW, and the walk through trees on a very crisp sunny October morning was just extremely pleasant.
We had a slow morning watching the big salmon swim upriver from the bridge, also stopped in at the hatchery and sturgeon center at the dam and played tourist. Highlight was Herman the Sturgeon, a 10ft, 500lb river monster that made us wonder what’s been swimming below us this whole time.
Finally got back on the water, done with portaging! We can start to expect some tidal influence, although not sure how much as we’re still 140 miles from the ocean. We’ve downloaded tide charts and found a very handy app (DeepZoom) with future tide forecasts based on exact location. Had some good flow passing Beacon Rock and no notable headwinds. Even though we’re basically in Portland, the river still feels wild especially now that we’re off the long reservoirs.
Planned to meet our friends Jake and Oksana at the end of the day. Despite thinking we didn’t have much tidal influence just yet, there was a nice bump in speed after the flip to outgoing tide, just takes a couple extra hours to reach us. Flew to our meeting spot for a lovely visit.
Columbia River Day 43 // Total Day 115
Rowena Surf Site to Cascade Locks
33.3 miles
The Gorge giveth and the Gorge taketh away. Feels like we were in a fever dream the last few weeks where the Columbia wasn’t green and covered in growth. That it didn’t cut through mountains. Today was entirely different, morning was spent in awe just looking around as the river slices through the Cascades. So crazy when framed against the previous 150 miles, and how fast it changed.
Woke up at 5:30 to catch a ride back out to Rowena, got there just after sunrise. The 30kt headwind had completely died and we had gorgeous glass. Breezed by the big beach flats outside Hood River early, shame we weren’t able to spend more time there as it’s one of our favourite towns. The confluence of the river with the Columbia was noticeably colder, siltier, and jammed up with the usual Chinook fishers. Then we noticed the kite surfers coming out again, and the wind really picked up and our rare Easterly tailwind became fun, if a bit challenging.
After a quick lunch/skirt up stop we were being tossed around. Tried to catch speed bursts surfing the kayaks on waves which was really fun, but then got spooked when one almost made Kevin take a drink and calmed down to just paddle enough to stay balanced between the big waves hitting from behind. Delta kayaks Blue and Booger handled really well in the waves and probably had a great time, the closest we’ve been to what felt like ocean paddling on this trip so far. Still made excellent time despite it being a bit more white knuckle than usual.
Pushed into Cascade Locks with time to spare, the tailwind and waves gave us a huge speed boost. Took the boats through the old locks, long since flooded by Bonneville dam, and pulled up the ramp below the PCT hikers field (felt weird to be back at a big hiking milestone). There was only one tent there as it’s quite late in the season for northbound hikers.
Had an excellent meal at Thunder Island brewing. Fell asleep immediately in the middle of journaling. A very fun day on the river and tomorrow we have our final dam, then a straight shot to the ocean!
Columbia River Day 42 // Total Day 114
Rowena Surf Site
0.6 miles
Aaaand the record for our shortest day goes to! Had a feeling we weren’t going to get far based on the forecast, and so slept in until 8am listening to the wind rip through trees overhead. Our site was completely sheltered although it did get quite cold overnight, fall is coming on.
We had a couple options for better sites to wait out the wind, with a nice state park in 6 miles and Hood River in 15 as a super optimistic goal. We put in with the mind set of “even if it takes all day, we can do 6 miles”. Did okay until we left our sheltered bay. Back into the full wind and immediately realized that 6 miles may have well been 100 miles, we were not making it today. Big whitecaps, and when the fast gusts hit, we were paddling hard just to hold our place, not sustainable.
Pulled out on the beach at Rowena day use. A guy walking his dog watched us struggle in and then asked us if maybe we should take kayaks back to the car and try another day?
At least some were enjoying the weather, dozens of windsurfers were suiting up and heading out with more vans piling into the lot behind them. Sat on the grass near the parking lot and chatted with a few nice folks about surfing, it looked really fun, especially the ones with the hydrofoil underneath. They were absolutely zooming, we just picked the wrong sport.
Waited out the morning to see if the wind dropped but we weren’t really expecting it to. Decided that as we were stuck, we should just hitch to town and get our chores out of the way instead of wasting a less windy tomorrow buying groceries and charging electronics in Hood River. Locked up the boats and headed up to catch a ride to either Hood River or back to the Dalles, depending on the first car to stop. Felt very weird to be leaving the boats behind, we haven’t been separated from them since way back in Golden.
Karen and Loretta saved us on their way down to Utah, dropped us right in the middle of the Dalles. Got lunch, checked into Super8, resupplied, then just vegged out all day on forced break. Not ideal but it was honestly really nice to relax and have some time to rest!
Columbia River Day 41 // Total Day 113
Maryhill State Park to Mayer State park-ish
28.7 miles
The best thing about wind is that when it’s suddenly just not there after being a constant companion, we feel ✨elated.✨ It will come back hard later this afternoon and tomorrow looks like it might be a no paddle day entirely, but this morning we had beautiful calm glass paddling past Miller Island. The Columbia wowed us with amazing basalt walls and winding canyons and all of the bad blood over wind from the last few days was forgiven.
It was Chinook season madness at the confluence of the Deschutes River, we chatted with a couple floating further back outside the flock of motorboats. Passed under some cool bridges and eventually lined up for the Dalles Dam portage.
After a swim to cool off, it was an easy route. While we had to go over a tight busy, bridge, we had a little elevated sidewalk that made us feel protected, and lots of people waved at us. Got some great views of the dam, and we even spotted a couple salmon making their way upstream. Best part of this portage was the cluster of gas station and fast food restaurants right on our route, we had sandwiches and nuggets and coffee while leaving our kayaks parked just outside on wheels.
We put back in after another swim to finish the day. Had some calls with family organizing transportation and visits for the end of this trip. Very weird to think we’ll be back in “real life” in less than two weeks.
The breeze stiffened up into a hard wind kicking up whitecaps within 30 minutes. The big forecasted wind hit a couple hours earlier than expected, you know it’s a bad sign when the windsurfing sails come out. We did our best to keep moving but then took the first sheltered bay we could, just before Rowena surf area. Found a sheltered spot in the trees on a marshy island that saved our bacon, to quote John, as we did not want to leave our cove again.
It’s the first time in a long time we’re true primitive camping, we’re being spoiled with state parks and boat ramps and rec areas. Hung our wet clothes in the trees to dry, and debated what to do if we get windbound all day tomorrow. Was nice while it lasted!
Columbia River Day 40 // Total Day 112
Rock Creek to Maryhill State Park
25.4 miles
Sorry in advance because it feels like all we talk about now is WIND. But we shall talk more about it today because the wind has become our whole world and determines our moods and our mileage and we’re learning quickly that this just seems to be life around the Gorge.
Morning was a quick early launch into headwind, none of last nights glass stuck around. It wasn’t bad enough that we couldn’t make progress, but it’s just demoralizing to constantly feel it pushing back against your face and kayak and paddle, and even the constant roaring sound in our ears starts to get to us. All the caffeine and pastries couldn’t really get us in the mood today. Another day of immediately putting in music/ podcasts to distract which we almost never do in the mornings. Feel bad for the old times when you just had to sit alone with your thoughts while suffering, they were stronger people than us.
Possibly another reason for feeling cranky is that today is day 40 on the Columbia, which was our time goal to finish the whole river (and expected to do it faster). In reality we have at least another week, probably more as the wind is slowing us down for entire days at a time. Trying to appreciate it because obviously this is an amazing trip and we’ll be back in office chairs so soon, but sometimes the wind secretly actually makes me miss office chair. That’s how messed up the wind is making us!
Anyways rant over, we paddled over a lot of tribal salmon nets, and talked with a few early morning fishermen in boats. Someone had been cutting their fish nets overnight and they asked us if we had seen any late night trucks pull up to the boat launch where we stayed last night, which we hadn’t but also conked out so hard we probably wouldn’t have noticed.
(Continued in comments, had lots to wax poetic on today)
