Canada is spending billions to militarize its Arctic. But residents of Cambridge Bay, Nunavut, have other issues on their minds: Where are the doctors, dentists and birthing centers?
Reuters reporter Maria Cheng and I spent a few days in this community of 2,000 people on the edge of the Arctic Ocean covering Operation Nanook, Canada’s annual military exercise above the Arctic Circle. I photographed Canadian Rangers riding snowmobiles across Victoria Strait, flew over the sea ice in a Royal Canadian Air Force Twin Otter, and watched an autonomous robot navigate under the northern lights. But some of the most powerful moments had nothing to do with the military, and everything to do with learning from the people of Cambridge Bay. Haugaaq Julia Ogina sewing a kamik at a traditional hat and mitten workshop, Josh Angohiatok and his family posing for portraits beside a rack of animal furs at the Northern Store, and elders at the Kitikmeot Heritage Society sharing their knowledge.
Mayor Wayne Gregory called Carney’s Arctic strategy announcement a potential turning point. Many residents I met were more cautious. “I hope the leaders in charge think about what we need first,” Haugaaq told Cheng.
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