The dark side of the hand 🌒
If the palmar side of the hand is our power✊🏻, the dorsal side is our precision🤚🏻.
Often overlooked and wrongly dismissed as a legitimate source of symptoms, there are many intricate structures on the back of the hand that require careful assessment to identify and treat. In this image palpable locations of pain are bold, with lighter surround areas indicating referral.
The majority of structures in this image will improve with the right approach 👍🏻
Had a really positive response from the previous image 🙏🏻hope this one is just as helpful to you 🤙🏻
This instrument can teach, it can illuminate; yes, and even it can inspire. But it can do so only to the extent that humans are determined to use it to those ends. Otherwise, it's nothing but wires and lights in a box.
Edward R. Murrow
Our hands are both incredibly resilient and beautifully intricate at the same time. When specific parts of the hand become painful symptoms can often (but not always) be replicated by touch.
Here are some examples of hand pain that I frequently encounter in clinic, and assess with clinical tests, @tindequipment , imaging...and often by touch👇🏻
Finger strength is one of those things as climbers we can’t get away from.
But do we put too much importance on static finger strength and forget that how we move between the holds is equally or more important.
@theclimbingphysio giving us some important stuff to think about 👌
#climb #boulderinggym #bouldering #climber #climbing
We all talk about finger strength a lot as climbers but what does it actually mean. Here is the legend @theclimbingphysio to explain 💪.
Check out the full video on YouTube
Featuring some crazy feats of strength from:
@alexandermegos@jane_svecova@alex_puccio89
Supported by:
@roap.c@lasportivauk
#climb #climbing #bouldering #fingerstrength boulderinglife
Extensors #2: it's not all about the joint!
Its so important to avoid the mistake of assuming you've got synovitis/capsulitis just because you've got symptoms/restrictions over the back of the PIP joint.
This is a version of the Bunnell-Littler test, used to differentiate between soft tissue and joint capsule issues in the fingers. Check yours out and let me know how you get on.
In the next post we'll get into proactive loading protocols to help improve symptoms/mobility when your soft tissues are the source of the problem.
Extensors #1
Often dismissed but an incredibly important part of the hand, from a performance and pain perspective.
The lumbricals and interossei both start and finish in the hand, and flex the hand knuckles whilst extending the finger knuckles.
The interossei also spread the fingers apart.
Lumbricals are generally fast twitch dominant and help with fine motor control, whereas the interossei are stronger flexors of the hand knuckles and a mixture of slow and fast twitch.
The extensor digitorum muscle starts in the forearm and straightens the hand and finger knuckles.
If you have issues with this area part 2 should be helpful.
PMID: 23692210.
Tweaks whilst on pockets and open hand drag positions often involves the area highlighted here (where the FDP muscle and tendon join).
This injury is really specific, and often feels better in crimp and full crimp positions. This post shows you why.
Check out my second open hand injury post below for more details on this common injury.
Any questions just ask 👍🏻
Excited to announce that my online platform is now live! (Link in bio)🥳
This year I decided to focus on the things in life that make me happy.
After family comes working with individuals who share this passion, and climbers (i.e. you) are right up there! Climbing is also a massively important part of my own life, so it's incredibly rewarding to be in a position to help keep you connected with what makes you happy, whilst earning a living from it at the same time.
My philosophy is always to focus on the source of the problem (why it's there), not the symptoms (what is hurting).
The end-goal is to help improve your performance and increase longevity in the thing you love doing. 🎯
I couldn't have made it to this point without the help and support of my family, friends, and 'mini-mentors'.
You all know who you are ♥️
