Ben Slater

Make your own tofu. Recipe below. Lamb Mapo Silken Tofu // Serves 4 300g soy beans 1.8L water 0.8g calcium sulphate, per bowl 8g water, per bowl 500g good lamb mince Neutral oil 2 shallots, peeled and diced 50g ginger, peeled and finely diced 6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 3 tbsp dobujang 1 tsp hot chilli flakes 1 tbsp mild chilli flakes 400ml beef stock 1 tbsp Sichuan pepper oil 1 tsp sugar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 3 tbsp water Spring onions, sliced into thin strips 1. Soak the soy beans overnight in plenty of cold water, then drain. Blend well with the water, until very smooth. 2. Strain through muslin into a pan, squeezing firmly to extract as much milk as possible. Bring the soy milk gently to a simmer, stirring often, then cook for 10 minutes. Skim off any foam. 3. Mix 0.8g calcium sulphate with 8g water in the bottom of each serving bowl. Heat the soy milk to 90°C, then pour 200ml into each bowl in one confident motion. Do not stir. Cover the bowls and set them over a pan or tray of hot water to keep warm while the tofu sets. 4. Brown the lamb mince in a hot pan, with a little oil, until deeply coloured and its fat has started to render. 5. Add the shallots, ginger and garlic, and cook until softened and fragrant. Stir in the dobujang and both chilli flakes, cooking until the paste darkens slightly and the oil stains red. 6. Pour in the beef stock and simmer until the sauce has reduced a little. Stir in the Sichuan pepper oil, sugar, soy, then add the cornflour slurry and cook until glossy and lightly thickened. 7. Spoon the lamb ragu over the warm silken tofu. Finish with sliced spring onions and serve immediately.

Actually good oven pizza. Recipe below. Detroit-Style Mushroom and Taleggio Pizza // Serves 6-8 80g strong bread flour 80g water 410g strong bread flour 290g water 1.5g dry yeast 12g fine salt 40g water Olive oil 500g mixed wild mushrooms, shredded slightly 3 tbsp olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely grated 400g low moisture mozzarella, grated 200g Taleggio 200g ricotta 1 lemon 15g parsley, finely chopped Honey, to finish 1. On day one, mix 80g flour and 80g water into a loose paste. Cover and leave overnight at room temperature. 2. On day two, mix the poolish with the remaining flour, 290g water, and yeast until no dry patches remain. Cover and leave for 20 minutes. 3. Dissolve the salt in the remaining 40g water and work into the dough until smooth. Over the next couple of hours, give the dough 3-4 stretch-and-folds, roughly every 30 minutes. Once ready, it should be puffy and the dough shouldn’t rip when pulled. 4. Transfer to an oiled container, cover, and refrigerate overnight. 5. The next morning, pour plenty of olive oil into a 35cm x 25cm roasting tray. Transfer the dough into the tray, turning to coat well in the oil. Gently stretch towards the corners and leave to relax and puff for 2-3 hours. 6. Heat the oven to 240°C. 7. Toss the mushrooms with olive oil on a large roasting tray, a pinch of salt, and roast for 20-25 minutes until deeply golden and low in moisture. Add the garlic for the final 3-4 minutes so it fries gently on the tray. 8. Scatter over the mushrooms, then the mozzarella, right to the edges, then add big chunks of Taleggio. 9. Bake for 20-25 minutes until deeply golden, crisp underneath, and caramelised around the edges. 10. Blend the ricotta with lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper until smooth in a food processor. 11. Lift the pizza from the tray, cut into squares, dollop over the whipped ricotta, drizzle with honey, and finish with parsley.

Hummus done right. Recipe below. A Really Good Hummus // Makes around 800g (1 large tub) 200g dried chickpeas 1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tbsp salt 60g lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, peeled 8g salt 150g tahini 100g crushed ice 1. Soak the chickpeas in plenty of water overnight, the next day drain them off, transfer to a pan, cover with more water, add the bicarbonate of soda and first lot of salt. Boil for 1-2 hours depending on the age and size of the chickpeas, until very soft. A few should start to break up a little. 2. Blitz the lemon juice, garlic and salt together in a food processor, until smooth and milky-looking. Drizzle in the tahini and continue to blend to form a thick and creamy emulsion. 3. Drain the chickpeas once soft and measure 450g of them into the food processor, still piping hot. Blitz for another 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. 4. Once nearly smooth, but still quick thick-looking, blitz in the ice 1 handful at a time. Continue to blend until all the ice has melted and you are left with a smooth, just-pourable puree. 5. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cling film and set aside for around a hour, until the hummus sets a little and just holds its own shape.

A lovely soup. Recipe below. Really Good Pea Soup // Serves 4 800g fresh peas in pods Olive oil 2 shallots, peeled and roughly sliced 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 175ml white wine 1.5l very good stock 1 150g potato, peeled and sliced 1 parmesan rind, optional 400g frozen peas 60g soft green herbs Sherry vinegar 1. Pod the fresh peas. Place the empty pods in a nut milk bag or a square of muslin and tie securely to form a large tea bag-like construction. 2. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the shallots and garlic. Cover and sweat for 6 to 8 minutes, until soft and translucent. 3. Pour in the white wine and increase the heat, allowing it to reduce by half. Add the stock and sliced potato, then lower in the pod sachet along with the parmesan rind. Simmer for 10-12 minutes, until the potato is beginning to soften. 4. Lift out the pod sachet, pressing it gently with tongs to extract its flavour, and discard along with the parmesan rind. Add the fresh and frozen peas. Simmer for a further 4 to 5 minutes, adding the herbs for the final 30 seconds. 6. Blend until smooth and a vivid green. Season with sherry vinegar and salt to taste.

Love asparagus (and butter). Recipe below. Malt vinegar hollandaise // Serves 2 140g unsalted butter 2 large egg yolks 1.5 tbsp malt vinegar 1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat, skim off anything that floats to the surface and remove from the heat. We want it to be around 40°C before using it. 2. Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the base does not touch the water. Add the egg yolks and vinegar, along with a small pinch of salt. 3. Whisk continuously over the gentle heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until the yolks thicken into a pale, softly set base that holds light ribbons. The mixture should feel warm rather than hot to the touch, around 60 to 65°C. Remove the bowl from the pan. 4. Begin adding the warm butter a little at a time, whisking constantly. Start with a few drops at a time to establish the emulsion, then move to a thin, steady stream as it thickens. 5. Once all the butter is incorporated, the sauce should be glossy and softly holding its shape. If it feels too tight or begins to look greasy, whisk in a teaspoon or two of warm water to bring it back. 6. Taste and adjust with a little more malt vinegar or salt if needed.

A long, winding fridge raid. Recipe below. Beef Keema Biryani // Serves 6 1 tbsp ghee, plus extra for greasing 500g beef mince 1 onion, peeled and finely diced 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 50g ginger, finely chopped 12 curry leaves 1 tbsp brown mustard seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 kashmiri chilli, crushed 2 tbsp tomato paste 500g basmati rice 1 stick cinnamon 1 star anise 1 large pinch saffron 4 tbsp milk 6 soft dates, chopped 5 tbsp crispy fried onions 150g flour 100ml water 1. Heat a wide pan over a medium-high heat and add the ghee. Once hot, add the beef and leave it undisturbed until it takes on a deep, dark colour on one side. Break it up and continue cooking until richly browned throughout. 2. Lower the heat slightly and add the onion and garlic. Cook until softened into the beef, then stir through the ginger, curry leaves and spices. Let them toast for a few minutes until fragrant, then add the tomato paste and cook it out until darkened and sticky. Pour in enough water to just cover the meat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until the mixture looks glossy and lightly greasy rather than wet. 3. Rinse the rice until the water runs clear. Cook it in well-salted water with the cinnamon and star anise until it is about two-thirds done, tender on the outside but still with a firm centre. Drain well and leave to steam dry. 4. Warm the milk gently and allow the saffron to bloom in it, drawing out its colour and scent. 5. Grease a large, heavy casserole with a little ghee. Begin with a thin layer of rice, spoon over a little saffron milk, then scatter with some of the dates and crispy onions. Add a layer of the keema. 6. Continue layering in this way, building 4 to 5 layers in total, finishing with rice. Pour over the remaining saffron milk and scatter the last of the onions and dates across the surface. 7. Mix the flour with the water to form a soft dough and use it to seal the lid firmly onto the pot. 8. Bake at 180°C for 25 minutes, then leave to rest briefly before breaking the seal. Serve while still fragrant and steaming, with something creamy.

A lovely little dumpling. Recipe below. Ricotta Gnudi //Serves 4 500g ricotta 50g parmesan, finely grated 1 egg yolk 50g flour 15g semolina, plus plenty extra for storing (around 500g) Salt Black pepper 1. Line a tray with kitchen towel. Spread the ricotta over it in a thick layer, then cover with another layer of kitchen towel. Leave to dry for 1 to 2 hours. 2. Transfer the ricotta to a large mixing bowl. It should now weigh around 350 to 400g. Add the parmesan, egg yolk, flour and semolina, along with a generous pinch of salt and a good grind of black pepper, then beat until the mixture is smooth and cohesive. 3. Dust your hands with semolina and roll the mixture into 12 balls, each weighing roughly 35 to 40g. Place them straight onto a tray that has been heavily dusted with more semolina. 4. Cover the gnudi with more semolina and store in the fridge overnight. 5. To cook, bring a pan of well-salted water to just below the boil over a medium heat. Remove the gnudi from the semolina and lower them into the water. 6. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes. They should begin to float, then stay on the surface for the final third of the cooking time. Once cooked, drain and either roll in foaming butter with hard herbs, fry in a little oil until crisp, or toss with a light pesto-style sauce.

You can make your own harissa. Recipe below. Harissa // Makes enough for the month 100g mixed chillies, deseeded 6 rose buds, de-stemmed 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 cloves garlic 1 tbsp mild chilli flakes 1 tsp salt 5 tbsp olive oil 1. Fill the kettle and bring it to the boil. Put the chillies and rose buds into a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave for 10 minutes to soften. 2. Toast the caraway, cumin and coriander seeds in a small frying pan over a medium heat. 3. Tip the toasted seeds into the jug of a blender or food processor with the garlic. Drain the chillies and rose buds, then add them too. 4. Add the chilli flakes, salt and olive oil, then blitz until smooth. Add a little more oil if needed to loosen. 5. Transfer to a container, top with a thin layer of oil, cover with a lid and store in the fridge for up to a month.

A good old-fashioned fridge raid. Recipe below. Roast Poussin w. Sambal-Inspired Sauce // Serves 2 1 poussin, spatchcocked Olive oil 2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tin anchovies 1 tbsp mild chilli flakes 1 tsp hot chilli flakes 1 tbsp tomato paste 200g cherry tomatoes 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add a little olive oil. Lay the poussin skin side down and cook for 10–12 minutes, pressing lightly so the skin makes full contact, until deeply golden and crisp. Transfer to a cooling rack set over a tray, skin-side up. Roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until just cooked through. 3. Return the pan to a low-medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic and anchovies, cooking gently for 10–12 minutes until the anchovies dissolve and the mixture turns soft, glossy and slightly jammy. 4. Stir in both chilli flakes and the tomato paste. Cook for 4–5 minutes, working it around the pan until it darkens and becomes sticky, catching slightly at the edges. 5. Add the cherry tomatoes along with around 200ml of boiling water. Let everything simmer for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse and the sauce loosens into something spoonable but still concentrated. 6. Cut the poussin in half. Spoon the sauce onto a plate, then place the chicken on top. Serve with coconut rice alongside, if you like.

A really, really good chicken sandwich. Recipe below. Hot Fried Chicken // Serves 2–4 2 tbsp dobanjiang 1 tbsp mild chilli flakes 1 tsp hot chilli flakes 2 tbsp light brown sugar 2 tbsp rice vinegar 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely grated 2 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns, ground 4 chicken thighs, skinless and boneless 200ml buttermilk 3 tbsp sriracha 200g plain flour 80g cornflour 50g potato starch 12g salt 1/2 tsp baking powder 1.5 litres neutral oil 1. Combine the dobanjiang, both chilli flakes, sugar, rice vinegar, garlic and Sichuan peppercorns with 100ml of water in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a steady simmer for 5–10 minutes until thickened and glossy. Strain through a fine sieve, and set aside. 2. A couple of days before cooking, weigh the chicken and add 1% of its weight in salt. Seal in a zip-lock bag and refrigerate to dry brine overnight. 3. The following day, add the buttermilk and sriracha to the bag, give it a quick mix, and return to the fridge for a further 24 hours. 4. When ready to cook, prepare the dredge by combining the plain flour, cornflour, potato starch, salt and baking powder. Lift the chicken from the marinade, allowing the excess to drip away, then toss thoroughly in the dredge, shaking and turning so it coats evenly without pressing it on. The coating should remain loose and craggy. 5. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pan to 170°C. Lower the chicken in carefully. The temperature will drop to around 160°C, let it climb gradually to 180°C over the course of 10 minutes or so as the chicken cooks. Fry until deeply golden, crisp and cooked through, then lift onto a rack to drain. 6. While still hot, brush or spoon over the glaze, letting it settle into the ridges of the crust. Serve in a bun with all the right things.

AD restaurant-quality-one-pot fun with @waitrose . Recipe below. #HomeOfFoodLovers One Pot Steamed Monkfish and Lentil Dhal // Serves 2 Neutral oil 12 curry leaves 1 300ml jar Gymkhana Korma Cooking Sauce 150g red lentils 1 240g packet British Monkfish Chunks 1 tbsp Gymkhana Tandoori Onion Chutney 1 lime, quartered 2 hand stretched flatbreads, baked 1. Preheat the oven to 180c. 2. Warm 2 tbsp of the oil in a medium saucepan you have a lid for over a medium heat. Once the oil simmers, add the curry leaves and fry for about 1 minute, until darkened and crisp. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and set aside. 3. Add the korma sauce and lentils to the pan. Pour in enough water to cover everything by roughly 2cm. Stir, bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes, until the lentils are almost tender but retain a slight bite. The liquid should reduce to a loose glaze that coats them. Add small splashes of water if the mixture thickens too quickly or begins to catch. 4. Meanwhile, dissolve 30g salt in 1 litre cold water in a large bowl. Add the monkfish chunks and leave for 10 minutes until lightly firmed. Drain and pat dry thoroughly. 5. Taste and season the lentils with salt. Arrange the monkfish chunks evenly over the surface. Cover with a lid, and pop the whole pan into the oven to steam the fish over the lentils gently for 10-12 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through and opaque. 6. Divide the korma lentils and monkfish between bowls. Spoon over small blobs of tandoori onion chutney and scatter with the crisp curry leaves. Serve with lime wedges and warm flatbreads alongside.

Cheesy chips and gravy. Recipe below. Oxtail Gravy // Makes around 1 litre 4 pieces of oxtail Neutral oil 2 sticks celery, roughly chopped 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 1 onion, peeled and roughly diced 500ml dark stout 1 litre beef stock 2 tbsp cornflour 1. Heat an ovenproof pan you have a lid for over a medium-high heat. Add a little oil, then brown the oxtail well on all sides, 8–10 minutes, until deeply coloured. Remove and set aside. 2. Lower the heat slightly. Add the celery, carrots and onion with a pinch of salt, cooking for 10 minutes until softened and taking on a little colour. 3. Pour in the stout, letting it bubble for 2–3 minutes to cook off its raw edge, then add the beef stock. Return the oxtail to the pan, bring to a gentle simmer, cover with the lid, and transfer to a 130°C oven for 5-6 hours, until the meat is tender and the liquid rich and dark. 4. Remove and reserve the oxtail. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan, pressing lightly on the vegetables to extract their flavour. Skim off any excess fat from the surface. 5. Mix the cornflour with a little cold water to form a smooth paste. Bring the strained liquid to a simmer, then whisk in the cornflour mixture. Cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring, until the gravy thickens to a glossy, pourable consistency.