This is how I roll when staying in Honolulu.
I bring the @bromptonbicycle from SoCal (regular check-in luggage).
Bike from hotel 1.5 miles to my mother‘s place to borrow her car. Then reverse. Usually 2x a day.
* Hotel parking is $65/day. Renting a car would cost us at least $100/day.
Another 4 hour sesh at Waikiki. It was difficult to get noserides in the early morning conditions so I got more headstands than I can remember.
Mahalo to @droneguy808 for capturing some of my waves.
I got to ride one of @johnny_the_ripper boards from @mokuhawaii
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When lowering a climber with a GriGri, maintain a firm grip on the brake strand with your right hand, gradually pull the handle back with the fingers of your left hand to release the cam. Use the lever and your right hand to control the speed of the lowering.
Avoid gripping the lever all the way back against the carabiner. If the climber descends too fast and you panic, you might grip the lever harder instead of letting go.
#belayuncle
Typo: B-rake, Not Break.
I had problems when making this and had to redo it a few times. Realized there’s a typo.
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A better way to PBUS when taking out slack, usually while top rope belaying. Punch, Brake, Under, Slide.
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Keep your brake hand low when pulling slack by punching out instead of lifting your hand up high. Take shorter amounts of slack instead of long high pulls where you might park your hand to wait for more slack to pull up. Depending on the belay device you are using, if the climber falls while you have your brake hand above the device, the rope can slip, possibly giving you rope burn or causing your hand to get pinched by the belay device.
Punching out also takes less shoulder strength so you don’t get tired. This is very helpful when belaying lots of climber in a long session during a competition.
When sliding the slack through your brake hand, make sure your brake hand goes below the belay device. I like to imagine I’m stabbing myself in the lower gut. Then bring your guide hand under your brake hand to slide. Don’t lean forward to reach your guide hand under your brake hand, it doesn’t help your reach past your out stretched brake arm. Leaning will also make your back tired.
I hope this is helpful and makes sense.
#belayuncle
When using a foothold near or below the first clip, lift the rope (and quickdraw) to keep your foot below the belayer’s side of the rope.
Stepping over the rope can cause the rope to go behind your foot. Similar to starting with the rope between your legs, if you fall after making the first or second clip, the rope can catch the back of your foot/leg causing you to flip or you can get flossed in the crotch by the rope. To prevent this, the belayer has to keep the rope under your heel or might have to move under you to keep the rope clear of your legs. This limits the space the belayer has to use footwork to give slack or make a soft catch.
An experienced belayer will try to move the rope aside, so you can step under the rope.
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As Regional Championships approaches this weekend, I wanted to do a series of what to do or what not to do from a Lead Belayer’s perspective.
#belayuncle
When flaking rope, avoid coiling it in a circle. Depending on how you belay and the belay device you are using, you can add more twists in the rope.
I like flaking rope in a figure-8, it rarely gets tangled. If I’m in a rush, I’ll just stack the rope in a pile.
🤙
As Regional Championships approaches this weekend, I wanted to do a series of what to do or what not to do from a Lead Belayer’s perspective.
#belayuncle
Start climbing with the rope to your side, at your hip or thigh.
If you have the rope between your legs, you can fall onto the belayer’s side of the rope after making the first/second clip, flossing yourself between the legs or snagging your heel and flipping. You also can fall on your belayer by limiting the movement your belayer can make.
🤙
As Regional Championships approaches this weekend, I wanted to do a series of what to do or what not to do from a Lead Belayer’s perspective.
#belayuncle
When tying in to lead climb, tie your knot close to your harness with a well dressed figure-8 knot and the safety knot close to the 8. Don’t leave a large gap between the 8 and the safety knot where you might accidentally clip.
USA Climbing up to World Climbing competitions require a figure 8 with a “safety knot”
🤙
As Regional Championships approaches this weekend, I wanted to do a series of what to do or what not to do from a Lead Belayer’s perspective.
#belayuncle
