Nice small day to slowly get back into skiing after a 4 month hiatus.
Up the Directissime and down the Gromier of the mighty Grand Bec, 3398m with @robbie_cube
The lad pulled out a very bold and impressive lead on the first pitch up an absolutely grim dry unprotected slab then brought himself back down to earth with a 2hr minor epic involving a wedged rope 😂
Stunning line, stunning snow.
Hellish bonk from myself. Turns out 2000m+ elevation days is a bad idea when you’ve just spent two days driving non stop from sea level.
And of course the legends behind it all. No trip to an unclimbed area could ever be the same without the locals and their history and knowledge.
These guys are everything! From 2 years ago when we met by chance to now firm friends its been amazing to see how their dream has been growing.
@salik_heilmann and @mette_scharling have been building a lodge on the shores of a nearby fjord ready to one day realise their dream of running adventure holidays in their amazing landscape.
We could never have had such success without them and Its been an absolute pleasure to help with a bit of labouring on the two trips and so cool to see how far the lodge has come!
They are now hoping to welcome guests to @maniitsoq_lodges this coming spring!
Give these legends a shout if you think you might want to get out and see these wild hills!
Another weather window another mission…
After some seriously wet storms we set out again to climb the line we originally eyed up on the pillar.
We opted for spending two days walking kit up the glacier. we had learnt our lesson from massive days and decided to haul a bag this time so split the carry up to reduce the weight of food and clothes and rack.
Our inreach gps had stopped working for some reason and so we couldn’t get a weather forecast. The sky looked clear and the wind was low so we went for it.
The line was perfect. Great rock, solid pitches, easy routefinding (ish) and a small and somewhat uncomfortable halfway ledge that allowed us a small rest.
I was worried the final corner wouldn’t go but with some trickery including a 50m up, traverse and downclimb and a haul bag zipline we managed to find a way into it.
As an added bonus we managed to traverse the summit ridge and an our previous ab line which took many hours and stress off the descent. Ideal!
‘Simons route’ : 15 pitches, 658m E3 6a, A1
(Spent 17 hours on the lead for this one so was climbing in a bit if a delirious flow state by the end. It could be e1 or e5 tbh. You’ll just have to go find out)
@outside.co.uk@lasportivauk@aiguillealpine@lyonequipment@phd_uk_made
