Mirror: The Career
If you want to read more, consider the following evidence.
Positive Psychological Coaching Tools and Techniques:
A Systematic Review and Classification
PMID 34305674
This outlines a methodical framework for positive coaching. Not all of the pieces or phases can be expected to follow organically, or on a set timeline, but it's a reasonable framework for understanding the processes if you're coaching others or self-coaching.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
🍻 𝗧𝗨𝗘𝗦𝗗𝗔𝗬 19 𝗠𝗔𝗬 • 𝗖𝗢𝗠𝗠𝗨𝗡𝗜𝗧𝗬 𝗦𝗢𝗖𝗜𝗔𝗟 🍻
What’s the Boulder U.K. Community Social all about? 👀
Never been to one? We asked some of our customers & former guest speakers to sum it up … good climbing, good psyche, good beer & a good craic 🙌
Next Tuesday we’re super psyched to welcome 𝗧𝗼𝗻𝘆 𝗠𝗶𝘁𝗰𝗵𝗲𝗹𝗹 as our guest speaker.
A total climbing legend, over 50 years of adventures in climbing, from all over the world 🌍👊
🧗 Social climbing: 6pm–8pm
🎤 Talk at Hopworks: from 8:30pm
🍕 Food, beers + community vibes all evening
See you there 🙌
#bukcommunity #wherethestronggetstronger
@process.physio@tenzing@voomnutrition@rab.equipment.uk@climbersagainstcancerofficial
Context for Nerds 🥸⬇️
Getting absolutely cooked by daily tasks feelsbadman.
i know it's counterintuitive when I say "Spend some energy on resistance training and you will actually feel better" but it's entirely true.
The time investment versus the value return on strength training is ridiculously high. In a couple hours every week, you could be more resilient and capable than ever before, and that's not even an oversell.
It's safe, effective, and well understood.
As below:
"Nearly 4000 individuals performed interventions for several months without a single adverse event being accredited to strength training interventions."
Strength training as superior, dose-dependent and safe prevention of acute and overuse sports injuries: a systematic review, qualitative analysis and meta-analysis (Lauersen et al., 2018)
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
Smart choice to not prepare for all of that falling.
Bonus points if your first exposure was punting the last move on a 5m wall.
Bonus bonus points if you have a 405 back squat and climbed V8-10 in a year but "leg strength never helped me".
Context for Nerds🥸⬇️
I am far from an expert on the incidence of Low Back Pain, that should be made clear.
From what I do understand, trying to approach physical activity guidelines (including strength AND cardiovascular training) seems to be linked to a lower incidence and severity of events and (in my anecdotal experience) is a better path forward when tweaks inevitably arise.
Rehab Professionals (some reputable sources are tagged!) will able to determine red flags as a starting point and forge a path forward, but the important part is that there is often a path that looks a lot more positive than some may portray.
Exercise for the Prevention of Low Back Pain: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Controlled Trials (Shiri et al., 2018)
PMID 29053873
Their conclusion was:
"Exercise reduces the risk of LBP and associated disability, and a combination of strengthening with either stretching or aerobic exercises performed 2-3 times per week can reasonably be recommended for prevention of LBP in the general population."
Personally, I don't think the mechanisms are as straightforward as some advertise (this exercises "fixes" your pain), but if one thing is clear it's that those who engage in activities that improve capacity are generally better prepared for the every day tasks life throws at us.
From lifting your baggage into an overhead compartment on a plane, to changing a tire on the side of the road, to helping a friend move, to playing with your furry companions or children/grandchildren, these are all good enough reasons for me to recommend improving capacity.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
Context for Nerds🥸⬇️
Everyone tends to gravitate toward pull-ups for training the upper body in the context of climbing, but why?
We have some studies validating the pull-up specifically, but no other upper body pulling exercises have been included in such batteries.
I'm going to put myself out on a limb here and suggest it could be worth comparing, and I'm willing to bet both would significantly benefit climbing performance in the sense that they might equally improve physical capacity in the same parts of the body.
I think for many climbers (and anyone really), rows are an incredible exercise to develop various physical qualities, but if you're lacking a barbell, then the ceiling tends to unfortunately max out relatively quickly since many facilities will not have exceptional Dumbbell selections going as high at the 150lbs in this clip.
The obvious benefit of the Pull-Up is that the entry-point is relatively high, with many unable to complete a pull-up at baseline, and the ceiling is pretty much infinite so long as you have a harness or dip belt to add load with.
If you have a barbell, then rows might actually be a better long-term pulling choice because the loading floor can essentially start from 0 and with a barbell you're only limited by how much weight you can put on a bar, either using two-arm variants, or landmine rows.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
So would you not allow your comp climbers to go climb outdoors during the season? 👀
Check out the season 6 bonus episode with Andy from @process.physio to hear more about how he would educate athletes to go climbing outdoors without posing a risk to their entire competition season! Episode available on YouTube or wherever you listen to podcasts 🎙️
#bouldering #outdoorclimbing #competitionclimbing #climbinginjury
Context for Nerds 🥸⬇️
Let's look at 2018's LIFTMOR trial (I'll have to do a follow-up video because it's quite interesting).
High-Intensity Resistance and Impact Training Improves Bone Mineral Density and Physical Function in Postmenopausal Women With Osteopenia and Osteoporosis: The LIFTMOR Randomized Controlled Trial (Watson et al., 2018)
PMID 28975661
101 women, aged 60-70, with indications of relatively low bone mass, underwent High Intensity Resistance and Impact Training (HiRIT) over an 8 month period.
30min sessions, bi-weekly.
Lumbar spine and femoral neck Bone Mineral Density (BMD) were measured before and after.
Only one instance of a minor back spasm and 2/70 sessions were missed (incredibly low) over this period. Under supervised conditions this protocol was deemed both safe and efficacious for improving the metric of BMD in what was previously thought to be a severely at-risk population to engage in HiRIT with.
IMO, it may not necessarily be a perfect long-term solution in terms of intensity, but it's much safer than once believed. Lifting will get you most of the way there, and impact training (some fast loading be it running or jumping) will keep your bones healthy.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
Dorsal-sided PIP joint pain in climbers is usually termed “capsulitis” or “synovitis”, but that’s often an incomplete evaluation.
The central slip sits directly over the PIP joint and functions as a dynamic stabilizer during gripping. As crimp intensity increases, the tissue is exposed to increasing compression, tension, bending, and shear simultaneously.
Open hand gripping likely creates more prolonged low-grade loading. Half crimp and full crimp dramatically increase dorsal compression and extensor mechanism stress around the PIP joint.
This may help explain why climbers commonly present with:
• dorsal finger pain
• side swelling around the PIP
• morning stiffness
• pain during crimping
• soreness after dynamic loading
On ultrasound, I commonly see fluid and inflammatory changes near the central slip insertion in these athletes.
That does not necessarily mean a major tear.
But it may represent repetitive low-grade overload of the dorsal extensor apparatus from years of high-force crimping.
This makes management quite difficult when an athlete continues to climb.
If you’re a rehab professional interested in learning how to manage climbing injuries, comment REHAB for information on courses this year.
#climbingrehab #climbingrehabilitation #climbinginjury #climbinginjury #c4hp
After nearly a full year I can finally start pulling on some crimps on the board. @process.physio had put up with many ridiculous questions, suggestions and my prodding and still hasn’t banned me from the business yet. Can’t say it’s been fun, but this was about as good as rehab guidance gets. #bouldering #climbingphysio #processphysiotherapy
Context for Nerds 🥸⬇️
Falling from the top of the wall shouldn't be your first exposure to lower body training the same way you wouldn't deadlift 500lbs as your first attempt or climb V10 in your first session.
It's an integral part of the sport, whether or not people want to accept it. You need your legs on the wall and especially when they come off the wall.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
Context for Nerds🥸⬇️
This isn't even meant to be a critique of professional athletes themselves, but rather people advertising programs claiming to train like a pro when they're often just templates severely overreaching on multiple fronts until the athlete crashes and burns.
Over the past few years, every time I see someone advertising something of this nature ("TRAIN LIKE A PRO"), I start an internal timer for their first injury or inevitable burnout. I have yet to see someone last for more than a handful of months when claiming they're going to train full-time, ramping up very quickly to often doubling or tripling previous volumes.
I know it's cynical, but I've seen it fail way too many times at this point to ignore the pattern.
Realize that many pro athletes either have significant training histories with massive work capacities built over many years (often starting in early youth), and/or are genetic outliers capable of significant improvements above and beyond what is considered "normal".
The pros that often succeed for many years include:
- Frequent sport practice (but maybe less than you expect)
- Resistance training
- Cardiovascular training
- Eating a lot of freaking carbs (to fuel high activity levels)
- Sleeping like Snorlax
- Limiting external responsibilities to accommodate all this
If a plan hasn't worked for you, it's because your variables look quite different, and your needs might look different.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
