In 2009, Phoebe Philo presented her first runway show for Céline, her second collection for the house, to widespread industry acclaim.
Céline’s heritage as a leather goods house and its history of creating practical womenswear appealed to Philo, who described it as a “clean palette” that could be reinvented through simplicity, utility, and restraint.
Minimal separates and menswear-informed pieces made up much of the collection, rendered in gabardine, canvas, crepe, and leather to propose a contemporary wardrobe and a more modern way of dressing.
Speaking to Videofashion at the time, Philo remarked that fashion had largely remained the same, and that “there’s not been a revolution.” As it turned out, her work at Céline would soon come to define a new direction in womenswear, and remain one of the industry’s most influential voices.
Crafted in talc-toned calfhair and fox fur, this rare, non-runway piece reads as a likely one-of-one press sample from Prada for its Fall/Winter 1998 collection.
𝘗𝘪𝘤𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦𝘥: 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘢𝘳𝘭𝘦𝘴𝘴 𝘫𝘢𝘤𝘬𝘦𝘵 𝘪𝘯 𝘤𝘢𝘭𝘧𝘩𝘢𝘪𝘳 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘧𝘰𝘹 𝘧𝘳𝘰𝘮 𝘗𝘳𝘢𝘥𝘢, 1998
Long gown in watercolor cloqué from Céline, 2017.
More about this piece on priormatter.com.
¹ 𝘋𝘪𝘭𝘰𝘯𝘦 𝘢𝘱𝘱𝘦𝘢𝘳𝘴 𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘊é𝘭𝘪𝘯𝘦 𝘙𝘦𝘴𝘰𝘳𝘵 2017 𝘭𝘰𝘰𝘬𝘣𝘰𝘰𝘬 𝘤𝘢𝘵𝘢𝘭𝘰𝘨.