SR. I haven’t heard much about your experiences in Hawaii?
WL. When I first went there in ‘68 - that trip was phenomenal. It was such early days. I remember shaping some boards for ourselves at Ryan Dodson’s place up there on the hill at Sunset. And then when I went back the following year, to Kauai, it was even more incredible. Kauai felt almost secret. How can I put this? I think it felt like the old tradition was still alive in Kauai, people like Jimmy Lucas were living in these tiny little houses, living nice simple lives. All the food was being grown naturally in the bush and in their gardens. Everyone had maybe a job or two but didn’t work too much, surfing was at the forefront of their lives.
Extract from a conversation between Sam Rhodes and Wayne Lynch in late 2021. PSVOLO5.
