Helping fashion designers to build successful businesses.
๐๐๐ฉ๐ฉ๐๐ง๐ฃ๐จ-๐๐๐ข๐ฅ๐ก๐๐จ-๐๐ง๐๐๐๐ฃ๐-๐๐ง๐ค๐๐ช๐๐ฉ๐๐ค๐ฃ
๐ Find out more about how we can support you
A sketch is not a garment. And social media does not show you what happens in between.
From where we sit, the designers who go the distance are not always the most talented on paper. They are the ones who show up for every fitting, ask the right questions and are not precious about starting again when something is not working.
Sampling is where the real design happens. It is unglamorous, expensive and sometimes frustrating. It is also where good ideas become real clothes.
Have you hit a wall in your development process?
We would love to know what stage you found hardest.
Last week a new client came to us with a 15-piece collection. She wanted a production quote.
Before we go garment by garment, we always ask one question: what do you usually retail at?
She went quiet. Said she'd rather not share that.
We understood that most founders think it's a negotiation tactic โ that if they say ยฃ2,000, we'll reverse-engineer the cost to match.
That's not how it works.
When we know your retail price, we know your positioning. As a high-end manufacturer, our setup, our materials, our standards โ none of that is built for the high street. Knowing where your product sits tells us immediately whether we're the right fit. If we're not, we'll say so. Better at the start than after a quote that was never going to work.
We'd rather lose the enquiry early than waste her time โ or ours.
So if you're approaching a manufacturer for the first time, share your retail prices upfront. "Luxury" and "high-end" mean something different to everyone. A number doesn't.
Have you ever been in her position? Tell me what stopped you.
๐Accuracy is crucial when it comes to measuring garments.๐
We have prepared seven tips to help you to achieve optimum accuracy when taking measurements. ๐
Here they are:
๐Before measuring, be sure to assess the method for how measurements need to be taken.
๐The measured garment should lay on a flat surface unless otherwise specified.
๐The garment must lay in a natural, relaxed position. Avoid stretching the garment when laying it down; this will distort the results.
๐The tape measure should be placed flat against the garment unless you are measuring a curve. If measuring a curve, use the side edge of the tape measure.
๐Take all the relaxed measurements first, then move onto the extended or stretched measurements.
๐Always allow garment to relax on a table. Stretched or knitted garments may stretch out of shape on the hanger so be sure to take this into consideration.
๐Bulky seams should be shifted inwards to keep the garment as flat as possible.
๐๐ผ๐ป'๐ ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ๐ด๐ฒ๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ฏ๐ผ๐ผ๐ธ๐บ๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ธ ๐๐ต๐ถ๐ ๐ฝ๐ผ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐๐ถ๐ด๐ป ๐๐ฝ ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐๐ฒ๐ฏ๐ถ๐ป๐ฎ๐ฟ "๐๐ผ๐ ๐๐ผ ๐ฒ๐๐๐ฎ๐ฏ๐น๐ถ๐๐ต ๐ฎ๐ป ๐ฒ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐๐ถ๐๐ฒ ๐พ๐๐ฎ๐น๐ถ๐๐ ๐ฐ๐ผ๐ป๐๐ฟ๐ผ๐น ๐ฝ๐ฟ๐ผ๐ฐ๐ฒ๐๐"
Link can be found in bio
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Are you skating on thin ice by not providing your manufacturer with the right paperwork?โธ
Have you made sure that your requirements are clearly reflected in your purchase orders?
Did you know that purchase orders are not only communication tools between you and your manufacturer but could potentially act as legal protection for your brand?
๐ ๐ฑ๐ถ๐ณ๐ค๐ฉ๐ข๐ด๐ฆ ๐ฐ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ฆ๐ณ ๐ฐ๐ณ ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ถ๐ด๐ต ๐ฅ๐ฆ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ฏ๐ด๐ต๐ณ๐ข๐ต๐ฆ ๐ต๐ฐ ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ณ ๐ด๐ถ๐ฑ๐ฑ๐ญ๐ช๐ฆ๐ณ ๐ธ๐ฉ๐ข๐ต ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ ๐ธ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ญ๐ฅ ๐ญ๐ช๐ฌ๐ฆ ๐ต๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ฎ ๐ต๐ฐ ๐ฑ๐ณ๐ฐ๐ฅ๐ถ๐ค๐ฆ, ๐ธ๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ณ๐ฆ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ธ๐ฉ๐ฆ๐ฏ ๐ต๐ฐ ๐ฅ๐ฆ๐ญ๐ช๐ท๐ฆ๐ณ ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ณ ๐ฐ๐ณ๐ฅ๐ฆ๐ณ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ฃ๐ณ๐ช๐ฆ๐ง๐ญ๐บ ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ต๐ญ๐ช๐ฏ๐ฆ ๐ต๐ฉ๐ฆ ๐ฎ๐ข๐ช๐ฏ ๐ฒ๐ถ๐ข๐ญ๐ช๐ต๐บ ๐ณ๐ฆ๐ฒ๐ถ๐ช๐ณ๐ฆ๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฏ๐ต๐ด. ๐๐ต ๐ช๐ด ๐ข ๐ฃ๐ข๐ด๐ช๐ค ๐ธ๐ณ๐ช๐ต๐ต๐ฆ๐ฏ ๐ข๐จ๐ณ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฏ๐ต ๐ฃ๐ฆ๐ต๐ธ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ฏ ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ต๐ฉ๐ฆ ๐ง๐ข๐ค๐ต๐ฐ๐ณ๐บ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ช๐ต ๐ช๐ด ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ณ ๐ฐ๐ฑ๐ฑ๐ฐ๐ณ๐ต๐ถ๐ฏ๐ช๐ต๐บ ๐ต๐ฐ ๐ด๐ฆ๐ต ๐ค๐ญ๐ฆ๐ข๐ณ ๐ด๐ต๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ๐ข๐ณ๐ฅ๐ด ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐ฆ๐น๐ฑ๐ฆ๐ค๐ต๐ข๐ต๐ช๐ฐ๐ฏ๐ด.
Let's say you issued a PO to the garment manufacturer with very vague specifications; as per our example below:
๐๐ฑ-๐๐๐๐ญ๐จ๐ซ๐ฒ ๐๐๐ญ๐: ASAP
๐๐๐ฒ๐ฆ๐๐ง๐ญ ๐ญ๐๐ซ๐ฆ๐ฌ: TBC
๐๐๐ ๐๐จ๐ฌ๐ญ: ยฃ55?
These non-specific requirements set out will most likely, this will prompt the following actions:
๐๐ฑ-๐๐๐๐ญ๐จ๐ซ๐ฒ ๐๐๐ญ๐: there is no particular deadline; I can produce it whenever.
๐๐๐ฒ๐ฆ๐๐ง๐ญ ๐ญ๐๐ซ๐ฆ๐ฌ: I can demand what I want and keep production on hold until my requirements are met.
๐๐๐ ๐๐จ๐ฌ๐ญ: I can increase my rates.
Obscure terms could potentially cost you a loss of revenue or order cancellations.
These are our three tips to avoid this:
๐Be precise
๐Double-check with the supplier that the terms of your PO are clearly understood and agreed upon beforehand
๐Get a written confirmation or signature from your supplier to confirm the agreement.
A new masterclass covering this and other aspects for production. Link in bio or DM us ๐
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Recently, one of the industry-leading consultants left me disheartened when I was told that it is quite acceptable to have creative sketches in your production tech pack. ๐คฆโโ๏ธ
That bit of news prompted me to write this post and share my manufacturing opinions.
๐๐ป๐ ๐บ๐ฎ๐ป๐๐ณ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐๐๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐ฐ๐ผ๐ป๐๐๐น๐๐ฎ๐ป๐๐ ๐ผ๐๐ ๐๐ต๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ, ๐ฐ๐ผ๐๐น๐ฑ ๐๐ผ๐ ๐น๐ฒ๐ ๐๐ ๐ธ๐ป๐ผ๐ ๐ฏ๐ฒ๐น๐ผ๐ ๐ถ๐ณ ๐๐ผ๐ ๐ฎ๐ด๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐ฎ๐น๐๐ผ ๐๐ต๐ฎ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐๐ผ๐๐ฟ ๐๐ถ๐ฒ๐๐ ๐ผ๐ป ๐๐ต๐ถ๐?๐
I'm afraid that I personally have to disagree that designers should use sketches in ๐ฝ๐ฟ๐ผ๐ฑ๐๐ฐ๐๐ถ๐ผ๐ป ๐๐ฒ๐ฐ๐ต ๐ฝ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ธ๐.
The sketch is a creative representation of the style which conveys emotion and colour.
Flat drawings, on the other hand, are all about precision. Whilst comparatively uninteresting at times, they deliver important messages to the manufacturers, breaking down language barriers.๐
๐ ๐๐ฒ๐น๐น-๐ฒ๐ ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐๐๐ฒ๐ฑ ๐ณ๐น๐ฎ๐ ๐ฑ๐ฟ๐ฎ๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐๐ถ๐น๐น ๐ถ๐ป๐ฐ๐น๐๐ฑ๐ฒ ๐๐ต๐ฒ ๐ณ๐ผ๐น๐น๐ผ๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ฒ๐น๐ฒ๐บ๐ฒ๐ป๐๐:
โ๏ธCorrect proportions
โ๏ธClear black and white lines
โ๏ธSufficient detail
โ๏ธInclude information on internal and external garment construction
None of the above is the requirements of creative drawings.
I would say ๐๐ต๐ฒ ๐ผ๐ป๐น๐ ๐๐ถ๐บ๐ฒ ๐๐ต๐ฒ๐ป ๐๐ธ๐ฒ๐๐ฐ๐ต๐ฒ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ฐ๐ฒ๐ฝ๐๐ฎ๐ฏ๐น๐ฒ is at the start of the development stage when you begin working with the pattern cutter.
Not sure where to start? Book a complimentary 15-minute discovery call; we will be happy to assist. Link in bio.
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Samples are what your potential clients see first. They represent your brand.
They are costly, but also a necessary investment required in order to generate sales. ๐ธ
๐พ๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐:
๐ธWhere possible, try to make your samples from bulk materials. This way, you will ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ during production and take the necessary steps to avoid them.
๐ธPay attention to the fit of the garment. Whilst the photographer may be able to resolve any fitting problems in post-production, your buyers will still need to wear the garment. ๐น๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ and potentially cause you to lose out on sales.
๐ธMake it beautiful from the inside out. ๐บ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ in your brand by having an impeccable finish starting from the inside.
๐ธDon't forget about ๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐. Sometimes it's a matter of adding an extra hanging loop, swapping a hanger or extending the facing edge.
Here at Plus Samples, we pay attention to every detail and are delighted to assist you with your samples, patterns and small production runs.๐งโโ๏ธ
Book ๐ ๐๐๐๐ ๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐ to find out if we are the right matchโlink in bio.๐คฉ
And, before you go, don't forget to bookmark this post! ๐
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Ever wondered how to make the sewing and cutting process more efficient?
Minimal tweaks and budget-friendly upgrades make a huge difference.
One such example is a gathering foot. This helps to reduce the gathering time by 1.5 times as well as improving the overall quality. It also provides a more consistent finish and garments look more even as a result.
We would love to hear your how you have managed to reduce costs and increase efficiency in your business.
Please share your tips below!
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So, youโre now at the stage where your sketches are done your collection is designed!
You cannot wait to link up with a pattern cutter and start bringing your ideas to life.๐
But before you go ahead and have this important hand-over meeting, it makes sense to check if you have the following:
โ All the ๐๐๐๐ง๐๐๐จ ๐๐ฃ๐ ๐ฉ๐ง๐๐ข๐ข๐๐ฃ๐๐จ for your collection are finalised and you have swatches to share with your pattern cutter. A slight change in fabric stretch or weight could cost you time and money.
โ You have determined your base and ๐จ๐๐ข๐ฅ๐ก๐ ๐จ๐๐ฏ๐. In all probability, you will be using your samples for photo shoots and gifting purposes. Take careful consideration of your target market and what size will work to your advantage.
โ Evaluate how you will ๐๐๐ฉ ๐ฎ๐ค๐ช๐ง ๐จ๐๐ข๐ฅ๐ก๐. Will it be through a professional model fitting, will it be done in-house or will you use your friend? Make sure the fit model is matching your base size and you have the measurements to hand to your pattern cutter.
โ At last but not at least, is the utilisation of a ๐ฉ๐๐๐ ๐ฅ๐๐๐ . It doesn't have to be complicated at this stage, however, all the information must be clearly presented to avoid miscommunication and mismanagement of time.
๐ฟ๐ค ๐ฎ๐ค๐ช ๐ฃ๐๐๐ ๐๐๐ก๐ฅ ๐ง๐๐๐๐๐๐ฃ๐ ๐ฎ๐ค๐ช๐ง ๐๐ค๐๐ก๐จ?
โจClick the link in bio to find out what free support is available to you right now.
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Rouleaux loops are elaborate and quaint features that add a feminine touch to any garment. They could be made out of an array of different materials such as elastic, corded tape, self or contrast fabric with or without cord. Rouleaux loops can either have a practical fastening or be adorned as a decorative element.
Here are a few elements to consider when choosing this particular finish for your garments:
๏ฌ Fabric rouleaux loops are fiddly and time-consuming to attach, therefore mostly used in higher-end garments. The cost of production has to be taken into consideration when determining their use.
๏ฌ The loops are constructed from a narrow tube of fabric that has to be turned inside out. Ideal materials for achieving a delicate look are light-weight chiffons, georgettes, satins or medium weight fabrics. Heavyweight fabrics, on the other hand, will create a bulky and untidy look and this may not be the desired effect.
๏ฌ They work at their optimum level when made out of slippery fabrics with a low level of friction. Heavy or high friction fabrics might create a lot of resistance and not allow
๏ฌ for the narrow tube of fabric to turn inside out.
Need help with selecting correct finishes for your garment? We offer a 1-2-1 consultation to help you source the correct finishes for your garment to suit your niche and budget. Book a free 15-minute discovery session (link in bio) to see if we are the right match for you.
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Do you feel a sense of helplessness whenever you send out your production orders to your manufacturers? This seems to be a common predicament amongst many designers.
Are you constantly afraid that the delivery will pass the deadline or the quality of the items will be subpar?
๐
If you can relate to these common issues then keep reading and make sure to save this post as a guide for future reference.
I have outlined 4 ways in which you can work with your manufacturer to eliminate these fears, make sure your products are delivered on time and at the standard you want them to be in.
๐นCommunications is key. When you deliver all the components to the manufacturer it is important to keep in contact on a weekly basis. Do not bombard your manufacturer with endless messages and phone calls but do ensure a succinct e-mail is exchanged once a week to the relevant contact. Politely remind your manufacturer of the agreed dates and ask if they require anything from you.
๐นIn the event that your manufacturer sends a query, make every effort to reply immediately as this is a good habit to develop streamlined communication. If you are not able to answer immediately, then reply to let them know that you have received their message and will respond at the earliest convenience.
๐นDouble and triple check all the components delivered to the manufacturer. Ensure that they have correct quantities for all the raw materials down to a small button or hook and eye. From our experience, the most annoying thing is missing labels or size pips. Your manufacturer can put the entire production on hold because of something as seemingly insignificant as a size label and this can be especially annoying as it sets everything behind schedule.
๐นDeliver everything on time. If any of the production materials are running late, speak to your manufacturer to find out if they can start production without it. Many factories will not start working on your order until all the raw materials are delivered to them so it is essential to let them know as soon as possible to save time.
On the 18th of January, we will be holding a free webinar to help you to navigate through manufacturing. More info and link in bio.
Garment measurementsโฆ
How often things might go wrong with measurements?
There are numerous ways to measure a garment or body and no set method is right or wrong; it is down to the individual. Factors like inaccurately communicating how and when measurements were taken can have a noticeable impact on the end result.
Here are three factors that can be determined to clarify your specifications to the manufacturer:
๐Taking into account whether the measurements were taken on a model or if the garment was laid flat
๐Measurement start and endpoints, i.e. Centre Back Length (Nape to waist)
๐Noting if there is an elasticated detail on your garment. The measurement can be taken when it is either stretched or relaxed, i.e. 1/2 Waist Relaxed
Don't forget to save this post as a future reference guide!
By the way, this dress was made in our studio. Have you noticed the perfectly matched CB seam detailing?
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We have taken part in many extraordinary projects and worked with some outstanding clients over the years.
However, there are a select few special individuals who supported us throughout this pandemic in spite of the difficulties they were facing themselves.
I just want to reach out and say thank you to all of our amazing clients who have stuck with us and supported us during this unpredictable year. We will battle through these tough times in style and we look forward to collaborating together next year.
Here is to a successful 2021!
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