Matterhorn Northface - Bonatti Route with @lukaswaldner07 on 30.12.
If you start alpinism you will read about the epic ascents of Bonatti on Matterhorn or Desmaison on the Jorasses.. It felt like a little dream to finally climb one of them.
Specially I never thought to be able to climb this route at the end of this difficult year. My last big surgery was mid of October, so I should already be happy to be just up in the mountains 😅
The climb itself went really well. We startet at 6.15 our climb, at 12.15 we reached the Schmidt Route and at 14.30, after 8h 15min of climbing, we reached already the summit. The descent down the Hörnli Ridge was long as usual 🙈
Thanks Lukas for the great partnership, looking forward to the next one!
Happy new year everyone 😉
#millet #wearepetzl #maurten
First ascent of Shaue Sar 6653m in Pakistan. A fantastic adventure up the north face (2000m, 85*) with @franchini_tomas and @lukaswaldner07 . Climbing like in the alps, a 16h day from our ABC (at 4600) and back.
#milletriseup #scarpaspa #wearepetzl #maurten #samaya
The Spinas Pillar was the final obstacle in achieving the first winter ascent of the three North Pillars of Piz Palü.
With no margin for error, Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner stayed fully dialed in to complete this pioneering project.
Three North Pillars. One continuous winter push.
Completed in 8h59min.
#GetDialedIn
Fast and technical alpine missions demand more than strength - they demand precision, control and trust in every moment.
On Piz Palü, @philippbrugger and @lukaswaldner07 delivered the first winter ascent of the East, Bumiller and Spinas Pillar. Dialed In until the last step.
Watch the full adventure at the link from our bio
#GetDialedIn
First Winter Ascent: Three North Pillars Piz Palü
Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner Dialed In from start to summit.
Full story coming soon.
#BOAFitSystem #GetDialedIn #Alpinism
Lukas Waldner & Philipp Brugger complete the first winter triology of all three Piz Palü north face pillars in a sensational time - the Bumiller Pillar, the East Pillar, and the Spinas Pillar - see image 5
@sportgramshammer
#pizpalü
#nordwand
#alpin
First Winter Trilogy of the three north pillars on Piz Palü in a single day
1 iconic mountain. 3 north pillars. 8 hours 59 minutes.
On March 8, @philippbrugger and I linked all three pillars in Piz Palü’s north face: Bumiller Pillar (900m, V+, M6), East Pillar (600m, V, M5) and Spinas Pillar (700m, M3). 06:30 base of the Bumiller, 15:29 summit of Piz Spinas. 2,200 vertical meters of climbing, all descents on foot via the normal route.
Piz Palü. Three pillars perfectly lined up in one north face. They’ve been combined in summer, but never in winter. Standing on top of the last pillar and looking back at all three lines — hard to believe what just happened.
One of the most aesthetic projects we’ve done. What once felt like a surreal idea finally became reality.
More to come soon.
📸 @the_bird_view@millet_mountain@boafitsystem@petzl_official@julbo_eyewear@evileye.eyewear@coros_dach@lenz_products@alpen.power
#MILLET #TRILOGY #BOA #pizpalü #northface
“The pillars line up perfectly. It was a purely aesthetic project, and one that had never been completed in winter.” Philipp Brugger
Austrian alpinists @philippbrugger and @lukaswaldner07 completed a remarkable new achievement in the Swiss Alps: the first winter ascent of the three North Pillars of Piz Palü (East, Bumiller and Spinas) in a single day. The pair linked the routes in 8 hours and 59 minutes, measuring from the first moves on the Bumiller Pillar to the exit of the Spinas Pillar.
A bold line carried out on a perfect winter day—fast, light, and efficient. A new chapter in modern alpinism.
Congratulations to Philipp and Lukas on this massive mountaineering.
#GetDialedIn #PizPalü
📷 @mariokaeppeli
