“Try your best and forget the rest”! @waterworkmedia gave me that bit of advice yesterday and I feel so encouraged by it after shooting thousands of photos over the last few days and having some that I’m really proud of and others that we’re eating me up inside for not being so great. Honestly all my photos could’ve been horrible but my experience while taking them was still worth every moment. Stay in the present moment and enjoy whatever comes your way and sometimes press the shutter button to remember what you were doing a few years from now ✌🏽
Took a small swim yesterday which was as close to pipeline I may ever get. @holy.skip is a madman who said he owed me a shot for not getting big enough barrels for me on our last meeting 😆 I say this wave puts me in his debt for life!! The energy was so heavy, got to see so many friends on the beach and even met a Tog hero @jimmicane
Every year I get older I think how many more opportunities will I have to swim days like this which was the motivation I used to suit up, and the encouragement from my loving wife @mamabust who nervously watched from shore. Yesterday was Pure magic!
I didn’t witness stand up spitting barrels during the last swell but I managed to still have fun playing in the ocean and high five familiar faces in the sunshine while capturing smooth bottom turns, a braille barrel, & a filthy pit
Damn I love the ocean! Do you ever just sit and watch waves and consider how bizarre the whole process of how a wave is made and travels and breaks? Of all the oddities in the world, nothing else makes me ponder everything like the ocean does! Tag the guy please 🙏🏽
I was asked recently how I contain myself shooting vs. surfing, and I think having memories to myself surfing vs. sharing the experience with others is what fuels my stoke for shooting ✌🏽
No shock here but if you could tag the guy I’d appreciate it.
