Matthew Paul

Finally started a YouTube channel to make my beta videos easier to search / find. Search for @MattLoobyRRG on YT or click the link in my bio. “Pay the Devil” 💸😈 - 5.13b The Shipyard Red River Gorge, KY 🧗🏼‍♂️ @mwpclimbs

@sarah_k_frohmiller grabbing some small edges on an under-appreciated classic. RRG friends, thoughts on any other climbs that you feel don’t get as much love as they warrant? Samurai 5.12b - North 40 - PMRP - RRG, KY

I think we all have a “sweet spot” when it comes to performance-climbing outside. For me, I tend to enjoy and have success on the flash/onsight or on the mini project (4-6 goes). Alternatively, I don’t do as well on the 2nd-go send or on the long project (10+ attempts). I think that this must have to do with expectations and try-hard. When I know the beta but also know that the difference between sending and falling is trying really, really hard, I struggle. Four days and nine attempts into it, Kaleidoscope is moving towards one of those longer-term projects. Even in my last few attempts I have been making beta tweaks and establishing new high points. But I think now it’s just a question of finding that try-hard gear and punching it to the chains with a little extra 😤. Anyone else find that they enjoy or excel at certain levels of the projecting process more than others? - 📷 @mjbarron with a pic from a couple weeks ago before I accidentally found a much better way to do this move 🤷🏼‍♂️

Climbing on this route has reminded me of some photos that I took of it well before I had any business trying it myself. I’ve heard lots of different opinions of Kaleidoscope, positive and negative. Overall I’ve found it to be good and worth trying, if not one of my very favorites. If nothing else, it is very emblematic of the style at the Red. The one-hang on this one by no means guarantees an imminent send. Time for some better temps and some a muerte try-hard!

It’s certainly been a while since I’ve posted on here. In the past, I have used Instagram to either 1) post cool photos I’ve taken or 2) share my own climbing accomplishments. Of late, I’ve been prioritizing my climbing over my photography, so I haven’t had much new content to post. I have also become a bit disillusioned with the self-spray post. I don’t have anything against sharing successes on social media, but for whatever reason I was feeling averse to the process of finding the words (and photos) to express my accomplishments on here. I felt that either I’m posting about how I succeeded (bragging) or posting about how I failed (still usually a back-handed brag about how hard I was trying). And as such, I was very content to keep the successes (and frustrations) of the season to myself and close friends. - With that said, I do enjoy when people share their process on Instagram, and I would like to keep taking more photos. So in both ways I anticipate utilizing the platform more going forward. For the moment, I’ll post some of my fall goals and share this sweet photo of @mitchellsmith29 on The Brain from last January. I also might use my website and blog to write a little bit more about what I’ve done and how I feel about it. Still love climbing ❤️ still super psyched 🤙🏻

Second Nature 5.13a, Far Side, RRG - Perhaps the coolest one-move boulder that I’ve done on a rope. A perfect pocket and incut crimp set up for a powerful-but-precise move to a sloper with just enough of a ripple to catch the skin. I find that the lines that most inspire me are those that climb a distinct feature in an interesting way, and this one certainly fits the bill! This thing could use more love, so if you’re looking to climb in the shade, skip the crowds, and hide from your lack of fitness, you should check it out! - It’s a great day when everyone sends, including a flash from @grif_givens , a quick send from @matt_looby (shoutout to Matt for the 📸), and the return of @taylorfrohmiller (don’t call it a comeback). Strong work boys!

One of the reasons I like climbing so much is that there is a clear delineation between success and failure and a system to mark progression. I cannot deny that I am a very competitive person, and the ability to measure myself against the field draws me to the sport. At the same time, I’m l aware that constantly comparing myself to others is a great way to be unhappy. Constant comparison often minimizes successes and overblows failures. - Looking at some photos from this past weekend’s trip to Chattanooga, I was reminded that there is another point of comparison that is more relevant and more beneficial: my past self. There is a part of me that’s frustrated that I didn’t do this boulder, but I realize that I was able to use holds and maintain positions that I wouldn’t have been able to do, even in the recent past. This is success and this is progression, even if the send or grade doesn’t reflect it yet. - Instinct V7 ❌ Used slippery start feet ✅ Didn’t explode bum left knee ✅ Felt strong on stacked, 3-finger crimp ✅ Stuck tensiony move to lip ✅ Climbed on an amazing boulder ✅ - My boy @mitchellsmith29 behind the 📷 with the 🔥

One of the main reasons that climbing outside is so captivating is the fact that you have to take what is given. It’s one of the reasons that modifying climbs is so looked-down-upon in the climbing community. We are finders rather than creators, but in this role we have the capacity to be overawed and grateful by what has come to exist completely by natural phenomena. However, the intersection of this ethic with the performance-nature of climbing can lead to an under-representation at certain grades. A good climb, both in a gym or outside, has cool holds and specific, forced movement. Unlike in a gym, however, easier outdoor climbs are often either very low-angle or consist of a conglomeration of jugs that don’t always reveal an obvious or specific sequence. That’s why it’s so special to find something like this, with such good rock, cool holds, and specific climbing style, while still maintaining such a moderate grade. Add an obvious starting hold, a clean landing, and an easy top out and you’ve got something pretty special. - FA Dog Head Arete V1 ✅ - Thanks again to @steverrg88s for showing me the zone. Also, a (not-sponsored) shoutout to Ohio-based small business @legendheadwear for the knit beanie, so comfortable that I didn’t want to take it off even when climbing in short sleeves!

Since the beginning, the thing that has most inspired me in climbing is the discovery process. - I remember falling asleep during my first month of climbing in a gym thinking about the sequences that might unlock a project that I was working on. - This continued when I began climbing outside. While I knew the climb was possible (after all, someone had established it) I was still captivated by the intricacies and nuances of movement that would unlock the climb for me. And the fact that the features that allowed this movement were created entirely by natural processes was equally amazing. - It was exciting to continue this process with my first FA. No gym boulder or established problem can capture the imagination in the same way that it feels to walk up to an untouched boulder, not knowing if it is even possible, cleaning it, and working out the moves. In fact, I never realized how much literal discovery was involved in development. On this boulder, the entire sequence after matching on the slanting rail came about after I couldn’t figure out the move up and right to the sidepull horn without a good right foot. Reinspecting on a rope, I scrubbed some moss just to the left of the line and was amazed to find a perfect left sidepull ear and a good left foot, which unlocked the left-hand bump to the pinch while getting fully horizontal. This section contains the best rock, coolest holds, and most interesting movement on the climb, and it all came about from literally digging a bit deeper. - Right of Passage V6/7? (I scrubbed an equally good line just to the left of this one which will be called Passage 😉) - Big thanks to @steverrg88s for showing me the ropes and sharing the development of this sweet bloc 🙏🏻

I always appreciate when a climber actively chooses to take on a project that is demanding for the grade, putting aside the number in exchange for personal growth or quality climbing. This season @taylorfrohmiller has already put down two of the tough 13d’s at the Red with sends of Supercharger (pictured from earlier in the season) and White Man’s Shuffle this past weekend. Nicely done dude, even if your choice to do the toughies was in part based on the fact that you’ve already done all the other ones 😉 - Scroll ➡️ once for full try hard and again for the send footy 🎥 from Supercharger back in October 💪🏻

It seems like a good week to be thankful, and not just because of the holiday. This past weekend I ticked the last item on my arbitrary list of fall climbing goals, ending in spirit my fall season (even if a few good climbing days will be enjoyed before winter). Looking back on the season the overriding emotion truly is gratitude, for all of the people I’ve spent it with and for climbing itself being an outlet during a stressful time. My mantra this season (when feeling the nerves on a potential send or the frustration of a bad day) has been “I am grateful for the chance to try hard”. With all the uncertainty of the moment, it is nice to be able to appreciate even the opportunity for success, regardless of the end result. - Another stunning 📸 from @itscatrunner on No Redemption earlier this season.

Projects going down left and right this season, even on a November weekend with highs in the 70s. Got a few photos of @brandonflessner on Supercharger back in September when he was still putting the pieces together, and stoked for him getting the send on Saturday! Looks like there is still plenty of season to be had, and excited to see all the stuff that people can put down in the coming weeks!