Mike Gardner

Speed alone has never been a motivating factor for me in climbing. How I climb, who I climb with and how I carry myself when I return home has always been more important. That said, the style of climbing light, fast and in a push with a small backpack is more fun than climbing with a big one. This past month in the AK range has afforded some very stylish ascents on the South Face of Denali. I am overjoyed for all of my buddies who sent in good style and kindly shared loads of information. @rousseaualan @jackson_marvell and @matt_cornell25 cheers fellas. Earlier this month @hennesseysamuel @robsmith_mountainguide and I were able to climb the Slovak Direct, something we have all made many attempts on over the years. We skied to the base, waited until the clock struck midnight and the snow got firm then we cast off. The climbing was exceptional and we were feeling it. We stopped briefly a few times to change leaders, swap gear and make up new song lyrics to cheer each other onward. We moved continuously like water flowing uphill and arrived at the junction with the Cassin in 10.5 hrs surprised and psyched. We rested, refueled and aired out the feet, taking a moment to look around and enjoy the view. Revitalized we meandered upward to the summit in 17 hrs 10 mins after crossing the bergschrund. Alpine climbing is a growth continuum. Every ascent builds upon another moving the needle of progression forward. Our ascent is merely another experience built upon what others have done. All this would not be possible without the community and family support. Thanks especially to @arcteryx @scarpana @alaskamountaineeringschool @talkeetnaair and all of the amazing folks in AK that have made us feel so welcome and at home.

Often times I think of the backyard as a venue to train and prepare for the Greater Ranges. A space to iron out tactics and skills to apply on bigger objectives in far flung places. What if it was a two way street? What if we took the mentality and effort required in the high peaks and brought them back home? What is possible right out the front door with the grit and vision we have learned in places like the Alaska Range and the Himalaya? I have passed many mornings and evenings over the years staring out the kitchen window at the central Teton range, eyes tracing the high line, or affectionately “The Enduro” link up. Buck, Wister, the South Teton, the Middle Teton, the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen and Teewinot. The goal being to make a proper skiers mission and ride as many logical ski lines as possible, while only sacrificing one sleep, i.e complete the odyssey in 24 hrs or less. As my spring ski season at home began to come to close a window to actualize the whimsical idea materialized. At 6pm as the April full moon rose in the east and the sun set to the west, @bdanoneill @fabrikantadam and myself left the car towards Buck. The light faded from dusk to dark and our vision and resolve illuminated the landscape beyond our headlamps glow. Tiresome climbing, steep icy skiing in “black out mode”, One foot in front of the other and one turn effortlessly flowing into the next. When the sun rose on the Grand it recharged our foggy brains and tired legs. We grinded out two more climbs and glides and arrived on top of Teewinot. Grinning and laughing we skied the east face and hustled our way across the lake and meadows back to the truck. All in we climbed and skied 7 peaks with 20,670 ft of vert. over 24 miles in 20 hrs and 15 minutes. This soulful odyssey was only possible because of two of the finest partners I could ask for. As Adam is fond of saying, “6 legs, 3 brains and one heart”. Cheers Fellas! Staring back out the kitchen window that night at the “Enduro Traverse” I felt a sense of elation and exhaustion I had previously only associated with far flung mountains. @arcteryx @atomicski @folkrm.mtn @roadhousebeer

The Southeast Face of Denali shines as refreshing reminder that the pioneers of steep skiing left a long list of visionary lines yet to be repeated. Andreas Fransson elevated the playing field in 2011 with his bold solo ski of the Southeast Face. The coveted line has been a great source of inspiration for ski mountaineers for many years but had yet to be repeated. Throughout the winter, as Sam and I made plans for our annual Alaska Range pilgrimage, we floated the idea a few times. Not exactly as our main objective but that if conditions and weather aligned, making a left turn off the summit and sliding our way back to base camp would be as classy as it gets. On May 26, @hennesseysamuel @ehaferman and myself left 14,000 foot camp on Denali on a beautiful morning. It was bitterly cold, and the wind was cranking, but apart from that things seemed to be lining up to embark on the wild top down odyssey. We clicked in on the summit, high-fived and began scratching our way down veins of barely edgebale snow among the sea of blue ice. We utilized the one ski pole, one ice axe technique to instill just enough confidence to keep linking one turn after another. As the angle lessened the clouds moved and visibility became minimal, but the snow was perfect boot top pow as we felt our way through the midsection of the route right up to the edge of the large serac known as big Bertha. We dawned crampons and traversed over to the lower couloir that lead to the exit of the face. We found bullet hard ice with just a few inches of snow obscuring it. It proved to dangerous for Edge-craft so we opted to rappel. Some twenty rope lengths later, we crossed the bergshrund on to the east fork of the Kalhitna Glacier and glided our way back to base camp 18 hrs after leaving 14 camp. The ski descent was more of a downward mountaineering mission, encompassing all the tools of the craft with some of the wildest exposure and position I’ve ever made turns in. It was a true pleasure to share the day with some of the finest ski partners I could ask for and follow in the footsteps of legends. @arcteryx @atomicski @samaya_equipment @roadhousebeer @grade7equipment

It felt like a short summer season between the expeditions. But my cup is full and I’m ready for the next chapter. I had plenty of sunshine, good times and connections with family and friends. So very excited and grateful to be questing back into the big hills with my dude @hennesseysamuel . Teeth to the Wind. @arcteryx @samaya_equipment @grade7equipment

Bivouac. Most commonly refers to sleeping in unconventional places. Often it’s a reaction to being so wrapped up in the task that you barely notice the sun has set. You might find your self setting up shop in the middle of a steep icy wall, on some remote mountain. Hacking out a ledge from the ice the size of a couple barstools and pulling the shared sleeping bag and pad out, we create our cocoon of warmth. We call it sleep but it so rarely is that. My finest bivy’s have been restful but rarely sleep full. Often you’re holding on to your partners tightly for warmth, alternating between who has the most coverage from the shared sleeping bag and simply sitting and waiting for the sun. I find the discomfort provides an opportunity to sit and simply notice the passing of time. Conjuring up imaginary fires in my mind. Feeling the blood move through my body and just feeling acutely alive. I love it. @arcteryx @grade7equipment @samaya_equipment #cuddle #alpineclimbing

The @arcteryxacademy in Squamish is one of the highlights of my year. This action packed week is a fantastic convergence of giving and receiving. The opportunity to teach clinics and share insights from lessons I’ve learned in the hills is a real treat. Being able to come together with the team of designers, other athletes and friends always fills my cup to the brim. Positioned right at the transitional time of my season when I go from home body and training, to road warrior and expedition mode, it is the best send off! Feeling the love and ready to hit the open road! @arcteryx

Loud pipes, screamin wheels, good sippin spirits….. Some things are just “Cooler than hell” 📸 @_drew_smith_ @wildcommonspirits #sipresponsibly #wildcommonpartner #loudpipessavelives

“I’ve had this idea for a new route on the Grand for several years now… drank Scotch with Renny tonight in Lupine until late….. picked his brain about this swath of wall that I’ve looked at from Burgette Arete and other places for years now… he’s convinced there’s a nice line there that hasn’t been plucked. I would love to climb it… as a memorial route to my dad. It would be special to do with you. Maybe Wednesday? I don’t know… Im kinda fired up about this thing. Let’s talk.” -Vic When I received this text late on Monday night a few weeks back from my good friend Vic Zeilman my only response was “I’m in for sure let’s fuel the fire!” The ravens soared above as we cruised thru the sea of golden Teton Granite. Skyward we quested and holds materialized and gear placements reveled themselves. It was fine day on the Grand with a dear friend. From The Black to the Tetons I have shared many a day out with Vic over the years. This was one of the finest. “Wish You Where Here” III 5.10- Memorial route to honor Vic’s father. @arcteryx #summerfashion

On May 14-16, IFMGA Mountain Guides @hennesseysamuel and @robsmith_mountainguide , alongside AMGA Certified Ski Guide @michaelogardner climbed a new route on the East Face of Mount Hunter in the Alaska Range. They named the route « One Way Out ». This AI6 M6+ R climb was the culmination of a 10-year project which started when they found a stunning corner system up the center of the wall. The nights were cold and at the end of day two a proper storm set in. They were forced to bivy in a crevasse in the Samaya ASSAUT2 ULTRA, before carrying on to the summit the next day in a complete whiteout. Check the link in our bio to read more about their adventure. #samaya #amga #americanmountainguidesassociation #lightnessasfreedom #alpinism

One of the finest things about guiding in the Tetons is team guiding. Being able to work side by side with some of the finest mountain guides on the planet is a real joy. There is a rich history of working as a team on the Grand and it’s a true honor to carry on the legacy. I had an all time day working with @zsnavely and three young crushers! Seeing our guests own the expiernce, learn to keep each other and the team safe, playing thru, reading each other’s minds and levitating people up the mountain is what it’s all about. @arcteryx @exumguides @sunwolfadventures #summerfashion #grandteton #summerofclimb #runwiththepack

Grit, determination and try hard. Most of what I’ve learned about life has come from skateboarding. Although the concrete feels a little harder these days and I don’t bounce like I used to, I still find immense value in the pursuit. Despite being an over the hill skateboarder with 25 years of riding behind me, I still take a licking and keep on ticking. Tell the wheels fall off. Till the end of the line. Skate and create. @arcteryx @roadhousebeer #tillthewheelsfalloff #motorbreathe #livinfast

“The road goes on forever and the party never ends!” -Robert Earl Keen @roadhousebeer #highwaymen