When the waves are the size of the coconut trees I feel so lucky and alive.
I Had blown both leash plugs out of my 9’2 before the sun came up and had a nice swim and run to the boat ramp to go looking for my lost board at sea with Alexis hollins , thank you tio ! Alexis has the true eyes of a fisherman , or pelican… in 2016 I snapped my leash at dark and was in the middle of the ocean after the sun had went down and @drunken_rhino had caught the one before me. It was pretty scary honestly but I just started swimming towards the marina and all of the sudden Alexis comes out of nowhere on his ski looking at me with this slight smirk and amazement that I was treading water alone in the dark past the line up. And believe it or not he found my board in the dark a mile down the reef towards Mayaguez. I am grateful to be tolerated and accepted to by the locals here in Puerto Rico, thank you for the waves and smiles always.
Photos : @sammy__j0@gonzolenz
