My last feature of the year is also a first. In Dakar, I stepped away from food for a bit and wrote about the city’s mesmerizing and thriving art scene, out in this month’s issue of
@travelandleisure !
I placed this story years ago, and my grandmother — my only living grandparent during my life — passed away the week I was supposed to be in Senegal reporting. A slog of misery followed: trusted agreements broken, major payments late or non-existent, deadlines a constantly moving nightmare, bright-eyed views of the industry and its claims to be ready to properly and fairly treat Black and Brown writers dissolved, and basically about two years of “functional” chaos. With the edits and graciousness of
@liz_theduke , this piece still came to life, as did other meaningful work during this period thanks. And we are indeed still out here. And we always will be. (My grandmother would’ve accepted no less)
Among the many things I’ve internalized over years of reporting on Black diasporic culture is our resilience. It’s a double-edged sword — I hope the future provides a world where we don’t have to constantly overcome, constantly convince, constantly pull ourselves out of the holes others put us in to protect their greed and their selfishness. In this moment, I’m so proud and moved by the ways in which we’ve shaped the creative world, even when often lacking resources, and institutional respect and support. The artists, museums, and galleries featured in this piece highlight a capital city seeped in expansion and honesty, illustrated in the most magnetic, beautiful, and liberating ways. I cannot thank
@cherifmbodji enough for taking me beyond the surface of his home, and helping me to bring a deeper narrative to life. And huge thank you to
@ricci_s for capturing this all so beautifully. I hope you enjoy the story and the work of these talented African artists, and I hope you’re celebrating the wins of the year, being gentle with the challenges you struggled through, and gearing up for a year of beauty. It does, very much, still exist. Dakar says so. 🇸🇳