Morocco with Lucy: coast, culture and long overdue catch ups.
Travelling solo lasted about 30 hours until Lucy arrived and it ended up filled, hanging out with cool people from the hostel. Then it was on to Rabat to meet up with Lucy. A long time friend who chose to move to the other side of the world so we don't get to hang out nearly often enough but when we do it's awesome. She was also one of many friends who all independently visited Morocco a few years back and really put it on my radar as a destination.
In between catching up on life we explored coastal Morocco, from the sprawling medina and modern metropolis of Rabat, to the port of Tangier established by Phoenicians around the 8th century BCE and the cute artsy quiet Asilah.
We explored medinas, admired street art, went hunting for an appropriate wedding outfit (Lucy also had a Moroccan wedding to attend), ate tasty treats, absorbed sun at the beach, enjoyed some jamming and got scrubbed super clean at a hammam.
(October 2025)
Morocco with Kaylie: Sand, food and earth buildings.
It was only a short flight to Ouarzazate but everything changed culture, climate, architecture and our style of travel. Here we were surrounded by dry heat, earth buildings and people wanting to sell us stuff.
A great host, found due to still juggling a bicycle provided a wonderful landing into this next stage of travel. Which was fortunate given I had read too many articles that had me a little on edge about Morocco.
Due to Kaylies limited time before she had to get back to NZ we had decided to finish with the bikes and use faster modes of transport so we could get a good taste of Morocco in the 10 days she had.
We took buses, trains and even hired a car for a few days, these were great for covering distance quickly but now we had to come up with other activities to fill our days. We visited the sand dunes, admired earthen architecture, explored medinas, negotiated prices and took a cooking lesson.
Then it was time to fill and patch Kaylie's bike box, and hope that it stayed together for the flights home. Then all that was left was me and my carry on bag.
(October 2025)
Hello Barcelona, bye bye bicycles
We made it to the coast which marked the end of our riding 😥. We utilised having space at the campsite to give the bikes a thorough clean. Needed to be good enough for NZ biosecurity for the others, and mine, good enough for sale. Selling my bike to someone off Facebook marketplace proved much simpler than hunting the city for some bike boxes to pack the other bikes into ready for flights.
But it wasn't all bike admin, we also checked out lots of Gaudi architecture, enjoyed Spanish cuisine, caught some flamenco dancing and took a side trip to explore Montserrat. Then it was time for goodbyes as Rose and Katie headed back to NZ.
(October 2025)
Over the Pyranees to Spain
We left the canal and using some trains headed for the mountains via a few hours to check out Toulouse. Then we stashed the bikes to do an overnighter by foot to make the most of our last European mountains.
Then it was down to the coast via some questionable route choices by me (I'm not sure why they still let me navigate). The route down through the mountains recommended by a warm showers host was great. Appreciate him convincing us that the ride was worth it, totally was, quiet roads, great views and not too much climbing. Finally we joined an old train line turned greenway, again a great option if you want nice gradients.
Canals to Carcassonne
The next destination in our very vague plans was Carcassonne. Fortunately for us there was another lovely cycle path to follow. This one following Canal du Midi, a 240-km waterway in Southern France connecting the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, completed in 1694. We didn't follow it all the way to the Atlantic but we met a skateboarder who was heading there. We got to see tiers of lochs, the canal going over a river and through a tunnel. I was reminded how slow canal boat travel is as we overtook them.
My only association with Carcassonne before now was the game but it was well worth exploring the old walled town on the hill which feels like it belongs in a fantasy novel.
Along the canal we also found an outdoor second hand clothes stall, a circular village, art installations and a vegetable vending machine.
Onwards to the sea
Leaving the mountains behind us, we found the La Belle Via cycle route and followed the Isère river back to the Rhone. Back on the gentle river valley trails we passed walnut orchards, sunflower fields and the lavender fields of Provence. Not quite the right season to get the postcard pictures.
We ate yummy picnics, enjoyed meals out and had to get creative when we forgot shops are closed on Sunday afternoons. We found the classic rural traffic jam and completed some of our longest days in the saddle.
We got to experience all weather conditions from avoiding overheating to adding all the layers. We fought headwinds and got caught in a thunderstorm but we made it to the Mediterranean.
France, Chartreuse and via ferrata
Somewhere in the forest we crossed yet another border and arrived in the world of croissants and cheese. We caught up with Kaylie, bring our merry band up to four. We decided hills beat city time so we took a detour from the Via Rhona to avoid Lyon and explore the Chartreuse region. Quiet back roads took us up and down hillsides to lovely little campsites.
Hills also means cool rocks, caves, tunnels and via ferrata. We found a great rock face to introduce Katie and Rose to via ferrata and take in some great views. You have probably noticed we are not that great at the rest part of our rest days when there are adventures to be had.
Switzerland and the Via Rhona cycleway
Another short train journey and we are in Switzerland. Coming from NZ it still feels kinda wild how quickly you change countries here. We have made it to the cycle route we plan to follow all the way to the sea.
As we cruise gently down alongside the Rhone river we find:
- Lovely campsites and great warmshowers hosts
- Orchards, vineyards and allotments
- Castles, ruins and mountain views
- Mountain bike events and live music
We admire views, explore history and navigate small apartments. The trail is clearly marked, wide, sealed, mostly flat and a lot of it is car free, what a luxury.
(September 2025)
Mountain village life
With a new crew (welcome Katie and Rose) it was time to get back on the bicycles. Thankfully train travel with bikes is super easy in Italy so we could get out of the reaches of the city quickly before jumping on the bikes. First stop a cute wee cabin in the Italian mountains. The walking only access was interesting with the bikes but what an amazing places, perfect for soaking up the mountain vibes.
(September 2025, I'm now back in NZ but slowly working on getting the rest of the trip posted)
Classic tourist week in Italy
Reunited with the bikes it was time to be a classic tourist through some Italian cities. An afternoon in Trieste, a day in Venice, a couple of hours in Verona and a weekend around Milan. It was cool to get a taste of some very different Italian cities. From the canals of Venice to the amphitheatre in Verona and the Duomo di Milano.
To make it even better I was joined by 4 great friends to explore Milan and the surrounds. It was a weekend of lakes, melons and good friends.
Dolomites by car - part 2
Thanks to the advice of an awesome local we had a wonderful time exploring Forni di Sopra. We climbed a rock face in the clouds, taste tested the offerings of the rifugi, learnt about the local geology, ate a lot of pizza and did a lovely 3 day hike into the dramatic peaks, staying in some distinctive mountain bivouacs.
Our final stop by car was to climb a via ferrata route that took us across the Italian/Austrian border a couple of times and climb through tunnels built in the war where via ferrata was an essential method for soldiers to navigate the mountains safely.
The dolomites by car, part 1
We got tired of the 40 degree heat and the Dolomites were calling so after a bit of faff getting the bikes to Trieste and stored we jumped in a car to explore mountains without having to cycle up them.
Unfortunately we started that trip on the busiest weekend of the year for Italy. So naturally we tried to find a spot away from the crowds. A campsite at the end of a road into the mountains looked like a good bet. Unbeknownst to us it just happened to be their biggest weekend of the year with a trail running relay race. Fortunately there was space in the campsite so we stayed and enjoyed the party vibes and mountain views. We walked the race loop and were suitably impressed when we cheered the leaders coming in.
The legs were still getting a work out and we were now having to dodge storms but the drop in temperature and stunning rocks were much enjoyed.
(Yes I have let myself get very far behind 😕 but the rest of the trip will get posted soon as I make my way home for summer)
