Years ago, while living in Paris, I was lucky enough to go on a road trip with my sister, Melissa, and some friends from Berkeley, CA.
Her friends had a British uncle who had a crazy-cool farmhouse in Aquilea, up a steep, curvy, narrow road above the walled city of Lucca, in Tuscany.
The farmhouse, attached to a 14th-century kitchen where monks used to bake the local bread, sat tucked between two of the most verdant valleys - so no matter where you looked, every window showed nothing but lush green curves. It was a glorious, wild, and untamed landscape, and the house fit that vernacular - looking solid, slightly off, worn, used, and loved. We spent days doing what felt like nothing. Investigating Lucca and nearby towns, cooking simple, light meals, and consuming massive amounts of the most delicious tomatoes I’d ever eaten.
But it was on the long road trip there, before we ever crossed from France, that I lost my heart.
We stopped in Èze-sur-Mer in the South of France to see their Mom’s best friend. She had a stone cottage directly on the ocean, and swear I’d never seen anything like it in my life. It was rustic and charming, and I had such terrible envy of all those who got to call it home.
As we pulled up and unloaded the car, her son and his girlfriend, our age, mid twenties, were diving for sea urchins directly in front of the house, armed with snorkels, a skinny pool raft, and an oyster knife. Time seemed to stop. I just stood there watching while they dove, came up, popped open the urchin, and added it to the hoard. It was just so cool.
I was asked to make myself useful by picking wild mâche, which apparently grew everywhere along the hillside. And then we set the table with vintage linen, sturdy cutlery, crisp white wine, crunchy baguettes, pasta, fish, a salad of mâche, and, of course, the sea urchins. As soft ocean breezes drifted in and out, we ate heartily and drank in the sea, and I could have stayed there forever.
This pretty house, 3.5 hours West, bears no resemblance to it, but it makes me think of that day with the sun on my face, when life stood still for a moment.
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@michael_levy_paris
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@christophecoenon